450 TOMB OF SHAH REZA. 
from the foot of the mountains to the eastward. The extensive 
village of Ispha stood on one side of the road ; but we did not 
stop there, our halting-place lay far beyond it. The country 
around was fine; and, at about a farsang’s distance from our 
appointed quarters, we approached a very picturesque spot— 
the Tomb of Shah Reza, who, respected by all invaders, is said 
to have rested there unmolested for the space of seven hundred 
years. It is built of brick, of a low dome shape, standing amidst 
a grove of trees, and washed at its side by a beautifully clear 
stream. Part of the waters are drawn off into a small tank, 
appropriated to a sort of sacred hsli, greatly revered by the 
Persians. But whether they are considered holy in themselves, 
or derive it from their vicinity to the shrines of Imaums, or other 
sainted persons, I could not distinctly understand. 
The whole way from the sacred tomb to Koomishah, our des¬ 
tined menzil, was a continuation of devastated human habitations ; 
not merely in a ruinous state, but fallen to the ground in shape¬ 
less heaps, mixed with pleasure-grounds run to wildness ; and 
every other vestige of former prosperity, mingled with present 
desolation. This tract comprised an extent of four miles ; the 
monotonous undulation of the almost undefinable masses of 
decay, being varied at innumerable distances with high perforated 
towers, which were (or rather had been) the celebrated pigeon 
towers for breeding myriads of those birds, so long a mine of 
wealth to the district of Ispahan. At present, they are as 
tenantless as the ruins at their base; not a human foot moves 
amongst them ; not a wing of that beautiful and almost domestic 
bird winnows the air. Indeed, most of the way from Ispahan 
to Koomishah, these buildings appear every where, at a little 
distance from the sides of the roads ; always where the remains 
