480 
TRAVELLING IN PERSIA. 
shortened our distance considerably. In quality of his office, 
he rode in the van ; and during our progress we passed, at 
several times, different bands of ill-looking people, who were 
travelling to a village more to the north-east, and whose evident 
inquiries about us, as they greeted their old comrade, excited 
something more than my curiosity, and I bluntly asked him 
whether those people were of a description to attack and rob a 
single traveller, or even ourselves were we less determinately 
armed ? — “ Yes,” replied he, “ and we of our village would do the 
same ; and so would all in the plain: we none of us make 
scruple when fair opportunities occur.” 
The avowal, at least, was honest, of a most resolute principle 
of knavery ; and, showing as frankly on our part that no op¬ 
portunities, fair or foul, would be afforded, we got on well 
together, till the necessity for the coalition ceased; which was 
not for some days after this conversation took place. 
Taking travelling on the whole in Persia, after leaving the 
immediate surveillance of the Shah or the Prince Royal, it is 
nearly as full of danger from thieves and robbers as any part of 
the Caucasus. We are obliged to keep strict guard, both day 
and night, from purloiners, if we are in quarters ; from ambushed 
plunderers, if in open day; and, with the additional incumbrance 
of a hot sun, while armed like Robinson Crusoe. 
June 12th. That we might recover the lost time of our 
wanderings on the 10th, and the consequent lengthened rest 
during the greater part of the day on the 11th, I would not 
linger to-day, till the cool of the evening, but determined to set 
off as early as our people could be ready. Still, however, one 
thing and another occurred to delay my little troop ; so that we 
were not mounted till nearly ten o’clock, with the sun’s scorching 
