mg of the pod, for which purpose strips of soft bast matting are the best 
material that can be used. Water must be given freely when required, so 
that the plants may not suffer from drought at the period when the demand 
on their powers is at the strongest. The buds should be syringed freely until 
they begin to show colour, and then both moisture and sunshine must be 
kept from them. Earwigs must be constantly warred against by trapping, and 
two or three weeks before the blossoms open, aphides should be cleared away 
by fumigating. This is the piping season: the pipings should be planted in 
a cool north border, in fine soil of two parts sharp grit, and one part loam 
and leaf-mould. Succulent varieties winter best when raised from pipings. 
August .—As fast as the flowers decay, remove the pots from the sheltered 
situation they may have been in, and expose the plants fully to the sun, water¬ 
ing only when really necessary, and then not over the leaves. Layering is to 
be proceeded with as soon as the young shoots become firm: a fine compost 
of sweet turfy loam, leaf-mould, and clear gritty sand is desirable for layering 
in. Protect seed-pods from wet. 
September .—Prepare soil for potting the layers, and place it under an open 
shed in the dry. The best compost is formed of sweet mellow loam, with about 
one-sixth part of leaf-mould, and enough washed sand or pounded crocks to make 
the mass readily pervious to water. Towards the eud of the month make up a 
bed of vegetable refuse, mixed with stable manure or old tan, the materials to be 
moderately dried, so as to yield a gentle lasting heat, not over 70°, for starting 
the layers when removed from the old stool. A frame is to be put on the bed. 
When the heat becomes steady, commence potting, using three-inch pots for 
each separate plant, and place them in the frame, giving fresh air constantly, 
and shading as required. 
October .—Complete the potting of layers without delay, using three-inch 
pots for single plants and four-inch ones for pairs if preferred. Give necessary 
water, but exclude rain, and ventilate constantly—abundantly also, as soon as 
the plants have started. 
November .—Give air constantly and freely, and allow the plants plenty of 
room. Stand the pots on a stage, so that excess of water may rapidly drain 
off. Water only in the morning, and never more than is absolutely requisite. 
Guard against heavy rains. Excessive wet is the great evil to be avoided at 
this season. Keep the plants clear of dust and decaying parts. A north 
aspect is best for the winteriug frames. Prepare the compost for the bloom¬ 
ing pots, and lay it in an open shed to keep dry. Nothing is better as a 
staple than good sound turfy loam of mellow texture, the top spit from an 
upland pasture, stacked in a sharp ridge for at least twelve months before 
using. Three parts of this loam, and one part of well-decayed cow or horse 
dung and leaf-mould, will form an excellent mixture. This compost is to be 
turned over frequently, and a little quicklime may be added to destroy worms. 
December .—This is a thorough resting month for the plants. Let them 
have plenty of pure air. Remove dust and all decaying leaves from the soil 
and the plants. Water rarely, only when absolutely required, but then give 
enough to moisten the soil throughout. 
