SIS 
KNIGH' 
founder, the order was^laid afide. The collar of the or¬ 
der was compofed pf three gold chains, whereunto was 
pendent a porcupine or, (landing on a mount vert ena¬ 
melled and adorned with flowers. See Plate III. 
LXXI. The Order of the Dragon overthrown. 
The emperor Sigifmund, in order to perpetuate the me¬ 
mory of the condemnation of John Iiufe and Jerome de 
Prague, found guilty of herefy by the council of Conftance, 
inftituted this order in 141&. The collar was made of 
two rows of double gold chains, intermixed with double 
erodes of Lorraine, enamelled green ; and the badge was 
a dragon lying on his back. See Plate III. 
LXXII." The Order of la Jara, or of the Lily, 
in Arragon. Ferdinand king of Arragon, called the In¬ 
fant of Antiquera, in 1403 inftituted .this order. Others 
affirm that 1410 was the date of the creation, and that 
the occafion of it was a great victory which Ferdinand had 
obtained in Caftile againft the Moors, and that the founder 
called it the Order of the Looking Glafs of the Virgin 
Mary. It is now extintl. The collar was compofed of 
bough-pots filled with white lilies and griffins intermix¬ 
ed. The badge confided of a medallion enamelled with 
the image of the virgin, in proper colours. We may un- 
derftand why it was called the order of the Jara, as a 
.flower-pot Is called fo in Sp.inifli, and jarre, in French, 
whence the Englifti jar but, as to the denomination of the 
looking-glafs of the Virgin Mary, or w'hy the griffin ffiould 
make a conftituent part of the collar, we are at a lofs to 
explain latisfa&orily. See Plate III. 
LXXTII. The Order of the Golden Fleece. Phi¬ 
lip II. furnamed the Good, duke of Burgundy, of the 
fecond and laft line ifluingfrom the noble houfe of France, 
inftituted this order under the appellation of the Golden 
Fleece, in allufion to the great profits and revenues he 
obtained by the traffic of wool in the Low Countries. It 
was put under the peculiar protection of St. Andrew; and 
•the inftitution took place on the iotli of January, 1429, 
on which day the founder folemnized the ceremony of his 
marriage with Elizabeth daughter of John king of Portu¬ 
gal, in the city of Bruges in Flanders. The number of 
knights at firft.was twenty-four ; and, as thofe who were 
elefted at the foundation have been recorded by feveral 
authors, it may be interefting to name here the principal 
of them, as they are dated in Segar’s book of “Honour, 
civil and military.’’ 
Sovereign, the Duke of Burgundy. 
William de Vienne of St. George. 
Rinieri Pot, Lord of Caftile. 
The Lord of Rombaix. 
The Lord Montacute. 
Orlando de Utquerque. 
Anthony de Vergi, Comte de Ligny. 
Hugh de Lanoy, Lord of Santes. 
John, Lord of Cominges. 
Anthony de Tolongiou, Marfhal of Burgundy. 
Peter de Luxemburg!), Comte of Beureine. 
Gilbert de Lanoy, Lord of Villerval. 
John de Villiers, Lord of 1 Tile Adam. 
Anthony, Lord of Croy and Renti. 
Florimont de Brimen, Lord of Maltineure. 
Robert, Lord of Mamimes. 
. James de Brimen, Lord of Grigni. 
Baldwin de Lanoy, Lord of Mulambays. 
Peter de Beaufremont, of Largni. 
Philip, Lord of Deftervant. 
John de Orequi. 
John de Croy, Lord.of Tours fur Marne. 
Tliefe names have been a little disfigured by the fpelling 
of the time when Segar wrote, but they are eafily u.nder- 
Itood. 
Charles V. wiffiing to reward the bravery and fidelity 
of feveral of his fubjeCts, and to do honour to fame foreign 
princes, increafed the number of knights to fifty in the 
year 1516; but it has fince been left to the will and plea- 
lure of the king of Spain, who is the perpetual fovereien 
Vcl. XI. No. 797. 
T H O O D. 
and grand-mafter of the order. It is mentioned that 
Louis XI, king of France refufed to accept this order, on 
the plea that his predeceffors were not accuftomed to re¬ 
ceive the orders of princes their fubjeCts ; for fuch were 
the dukes of Burgundy, who held that duchy-and other 
lordftiips in homage to the crown of France. Such was 
the delicacy of princes and kings in thofe ancient times 
upon matters of chivalry. 
Charles V. inverted his fon Philip in the royal chapel 
of his palace at Bruflels in 1556 ; taking the collar from 
his own neck, he placed it on the lhoulder of his fon, in 
the prefence of leveral knights, faying, Accipc,jili mi, quem 
a cello vtco detraho, tibi pracipuum auri vtlleris torqvcm, quern 
P/ii/ippus Dux Burgundia, cognomine Bonus, atavus tiojler, monu- 
mentum field Sacra Romana Ecclefa effie voluit, ct hvjufce infi- 
tutionis ac legum cjus fac femper mcmineris. That is, “ Re¬ 
ceive, my fon, this collar which I take off from my neck, 
as now belonging to yourfelf; the collar of the Golden 
Fleece, which our anceftor Philip duke of Burgundy, lur- 
named the Good, ordered to be a monument of his faith 
to the holy Roman church ; and remember to keep it al¬ 
ways as a pledge of this inftitution and of its laws.” 
The officers of this order were the chancellor, the trea- 
furer, the regifter, and a king of arms called Toifon d'Or, 
as the officer of the mod noble Order of the Garter is 
called Garter. William bifhop of Tournay, abbot of St. 
Benin, chancellor of the order, wrote a treatife upon it in 
15303 which is very curious, and may be referred to for 
further particulars upon this famous inftitution. 
The habit, which is very fumptuous, is compofed of a 
crimfon velvet cloak, lined with white fatin, open on the 
right fide, and tucked up on the left arm ; under this 
cloak is a robe of filver tili’ue. The head of the knight is 
covered with a chapeau, or hood, fafliioned as it was worn 
at the time of the inftitution, and is of violet-coloured 
velvet. The cloak is embroidered with gold, and the 
bordure reprefents the device of the collar, which confilts 
of double fteels, anciently called anfills, and flint-ftones 
emitting fire, placed alternately, and enamelled on gold in 
their proper colours. The imprefs, or motto, alluding 
to the quicknefs with which Philip the founder intended 
to overcome his enemies, (but in which he was dilap- 
pointed,) is, Anteferitquamjlammor micat, “ The flame (trikes 
ere it is feen.” Befides this, the order has a general 
motto alluding to the jewel, which is a fleece of gold : 
Pretium non vile laboris ; “Not an unworthy reward for our 
labour.” See Plate III. 
A queftion has been agitated among ancient writers, 
whether this fleece alluded originally to that mentioned 
in the book of Judges concerning Gideon; or the fleece 
which Jacob, by a curious trick, obtained to be variegated 
in colours ; or, laftly, that which Jafon went to acquire 
at Colchis, where he fell in love and ran away with the 
famous forcerefs Medea. In fupport of theie opinions, 
very ingenious reafons have been adduced; but we think 
that the laft, namely, the fleece of the ram which car¬ 
ried Phryxus and Helle through the air, as ancient bards 
have fung, is the one which the founder had in view in 
inllituting an order of knights, who, like the Argonauts, 
were not to obtain their object, that is, military fame and 
repute, without trouble and labour. ’ 
I.XXIV. The Knights of St. Hubert, in the duchy 
of Juliers. Gerard V. in memory of a victory which he 
had gained over Arnold of Egmont on St. Hubert’s day 
in the year 1447, created this aflociation. St. Hubert had 
been bifhop of Liege in 727, and is reported to have been 
a great hunter, wafting in the forefts thofe hours he might 
have better employed in fubduing his own paffions. 
One day, when he was following with full fpeed a (lag of 
enormous fize, the animal ftarted, turned round, and, from 
a crucifix figured between the horns, Hubert received a 
fevere reproach upon his life. He now changed his ha¬ 
bits ; and, turning to acts of charity and devotion, was 
made a prieft, and by his piety and other virtues merited 
to be elected bilhop of Liege. The badge of the order 
9 X alludes 
