Garden Notes, 1910. 13 
toes were in blossom at time of setting, and were not disturbed 
sufficiently to check the growth. The first tomatoes picked, July 
23rd, were from this plot. June 15th another plot of Earlina toma¬ 
toes was set. These plants being set so late, never reached a suffi¬ 
cient size at maturity to make the yield that the earlier set plants 
made. The area of the whole plot was 28/100 of an acre. From 
this two and one-half tons of tomatoes were picked. The soil of 
these plots is not well adapted to tomatoes, nor is the climate of 
Fort Collins considered to be as well adapted as places farther out 
on the plains. As a result, few tomatoes are planted in this dis¬ 
trict, and prices are always higher than in Greeley or the other 
canning centers. For this reason it is an incentive for the enterpriz- 
ing gardener to grow this vegetable where it is not ordinarily 
grown. For the high altitude, it is best to select the earliest matur¬ 
ing varieties as Burpee’s Early, Spark’s Earliana, June Pink, etc. 
The seed should be started in the green house or hot bed about 
April 1st. As soon as the plants are sufficiently large to prick out, 
they should be put, either in other flats one or one and one-half 
inches apart, or they may be transplanted directly to the hot bed or 
cold frame as the case may be. They should be, at least, one inch 
apart, and two inches apart each way is better. These plants should 
be from six to ten inches high when set in the open ground. If 
space is available so that plants may be grown individually in four 
to six inch pots, two or three weeks may be gained in securing 
early fruits. In any case, great care must be exercised to see that 
the plants are thoroughly hardened by exposure to the outside air, 
before being set in the field. Otherwise, a cold wind even several 
degrees above freezing, when first set, will frequently kill the plants. 
On the Eastern slope, the potato flea beetle, and the striped potato 
beetle are serious pests to the tomato. Our experience in this line 
so far has led us to favor spraying the tomato plants with a strong 
mixture of arsenate of lead and water, as fast as the plants are set 
in the ground. This either prevents the insects from working, or 
kills them if they attack the plants. None of the leaf fungi that 
are so destructive to the tomato in the East are troublesome in 
Colorado, nor is there any serious trouble from rotting of the 
fruit. One soil fungus, Euserium, occasionally causes losses in 
the fields. As yet, we are not certain whether this fungus is native 
in the soils, or is carried to the fields with the plants from the cold 
frames. The first indication of the trouble is a yellowing and 
withering of the leaves, followed by shriveling of the plant. If the 
plant be examined, it will be found that the stem under the ground 
and above ground also is discolored throughout the vascular sys¬ 
tem, or sap wood. There is no known remedy for this disease. It 
may be partly prevented by making sure that the seeds are sown and 
