PARIS. 
Clichy la Garenne, fo called to diftinguilh it from 
another Clichy, which is clofe to Livry, is a pretty vil¬ 
lage about two miles from Montmartre, and lying between 
the right bank of the Seine and the road to St. Denis. 
The ancient kings of France often refided here. Dago- 
bert held a folemn council in his palace at Clichy. 
St. Ouen sur Seine is a little farther north. Should 
the traveller pafs through this village, which is about five 
miles from Paris, he will acknowledge that, although it 
is fituated on a plain, the number of chateaux, the plea¬ 
ting views of the river which they command, and the pic¬ 
ture fque arrangement of the gardens, render it one of the 
moft inviting retreats for the rich merchants and citizens 
of Paris. On the 24th of Auguft a fair is held here, 
which continues three days, and is much frequented. 
About a mile farther north, and a little to the eaft, is 
St. Denis, which derives its name from the cathedral 
fo called, dedicated to the patron-faint of France. A 
noble Chriftian lady named Catullis, caufed a chapel to 
be built near the fpot on which the prefent church Hands, 
wherein Ihe depofited the remains of the martyred Dio- 
nyfius, the apoftle of Gaul, and his companions, which 
the had purchafed from the executioner. The chapel 
was fucceffively enriched by Clotaire, Chilperic, Dago- 
bert, and numerous ancient monarchs, until it arrived at 
the acme of its greatnefs. 
The town contains about 5000 inhabitants. The church 
of St. Denis is the king’s chapel royal. The weft front 
has three old Saxon arches; one of the weft towers has a 
fpire, but there is no middle tower. The vaults under 
the choir were the burial-place of the kings of France for 
about a thoufand years; but at the Revolution, in Sep¬ 
tember 1792, the mob broke open the tombs, burnt the 
coffins of lead and wood, and fcattered the royal bones 
about the church-yard ; the church was alfo ranfacked, 
and the organ deftroyed,as well as the altars and chapels. 
Bonaparte, though he did not pay much refpeft to the re¬ 
mains of the royal family, yet was ambitious of being 
buried in the fame place from which their bones had been 
removed. He accordingly prepared a vault for himfelf 
and his dynafty ; the entrance to which was to be by two 
immenfe mafl'y bronze doors, with three locks and keys: 
the keys to be kept by three of his favourite generals. 
Louis XVIII. has been employed in repairing the chapel, 
and reftoring things as far as pofiible ; 100, oco francs per 
annum (between 4 and 5000 pounds fterling) have been 
appropriated for this purpofe ever fince the Reftoration. 
The whole interior of the church, which is much in the 
ltyle of Amiens, and nearly as handfome, has been tho¬ 
roughly cleaned, and the windows put in perfeft order. 
It is now ufeable for fervice ; and the workmen are re¬ 
newing all the ornamental parts of the pillars. The 
vaults below, which are in the Saxon ftyle, are very light 
and cheerful, having feveral window's to the open air. 
They are alfo lofty and extenfive. All the fcattered bones 
have been carefully colletfed, and placed in a diftant part 
of the vaults, which is walled up; and there is a large 
plate in front of it, on which, in letters of gold, are in- 
icribed the names of at leaft fifty dr lixty kings, queens, 
dauphins, and princes, to whom the bones belonged, with 
a ftatement of the fa£t of their having been difinterred in 
September 1792, and re-buried in 1817. The remains of 
Louis XVI. and Antoniette, which had been privately 
interred, were removed with great pomp to the church of 
St. Denis, and are placed in a diftindl vault. The ftone 
coffins of king Pepin, Louis VIII. and two or three others 
of the old kings, have been found, though without any 
bones : they were identified, and are to be preferved. 
About twelve or fourteen old tombs of kings remain en¬ 
tire : ftatues of thefe kings, as large as life, fomething in 
the ftyle of thofe in York minfter, but recumbent on the 
monuments, are alfo perfect, and have been cleaned. The 
black coffin of the prince of Conde, who died in 1818, 
is in a diftinft vault, but is lhown through a grated door; 
499 
and a new vault is made for the royal family. The fa- 
criftry or veftry is a handfome room, and is adorned with 
paintings, reprefenting the coronations of feveral kings, 
and other hiltorical fubjedts. The great bell, in the key 
of G, has a remarkably rich tone. Near the weft end 
is the monument of king Dagobert, who is regarded as 
the founder of the church. It is adorned with imagery 
in three compartments, reprefenting a legendary ftory. 
In the firft, he dies ; and the devils, enraged at his hav¬ 
ing built a church, feize him, and put him into a boat to 
carry him to fea. But in the fiecond, the priefts come to 
his affiftance, throw the devils overboard, and refcue the 
king; and, thirdly, angels carry him to heaven. 
Arnouvi/le is a league from St. Denis, on the bank of 
the little river Cran. The park, which contains about 
300 acres, is beautifully diverfified with groves, lawns, 
cafcades, and flieets of water. The appearance of the vil¬ 
lage is much admired. All the ftreets centre in a fpacious 
lawn ornamented by a noble fountain. 
Stains. —This village is north-eaft of St. Denis. The 
chateau of M. de Livry is worth vifiting, not only on ac¬ 
count of its pleafant fituation, although the country round 
it is comparatively flat, but for an extenfive colleftion of 
aquatic birds, and the rareft and moft beautiful fpecies of 
deer. 
Pierrejitte is one mile north of Stains, on the road to 
Beauvais. It is fituated on the declivity of a fmall hill, 
and contains the chateau of M.Faucompret de Vieuxbanc, 
celebrated for its valuable colle&ion of rare and beautiful 
plants. 
Ecouen la Hautefeuille is a village about fix miles north 
of St. Denis. A chateau was built here by Anne of Mont¬ 
morency, which, on the emigration of the noble family of 
the Condes, became national property. The feminary 
for the education of the daughters of the members of the 
Legion of Honour (fee p. 469.) has, we underftand, 
been removed to this place. The painted glafs in one of 
the galleries has been much admired. The fubjeft is 
taken from a work of Raphael, and reprefents the hiftory 
of Pfyche. The chapel and the facrifty offer fome well- 
executed copies of Raphael and Leonardo da Vinci. 
Palling through a wood nearly two miles long, and tra- 
verfing Luzarches and a few more villages, we at length 
reach 
Chantilly, which is twenty-two miles north of Paris. 
—This town was once famed for the beauty of its gar¬ 
dens, the fplendour of its. palace, and ftill more for the 
heroes who inhabited it. The hunting-feat of the Mont- 
morencies and the Condes is now a heap of ruins. It 
was deftroyed by a mob from Paris early in the Revolution. 
The ftables only remain ; and thefe, even in their dilapi¬ 
dated ftate, convey no mean idea of the former magnifi¬ 
cence of the place. The building confifts of one enor¬ 
mous liable, 600 feet in length, and 40 in height. In the 
centre is a lofty dome, 90 feet high, and 60 in diameter. 
Under this is a fountain which fupplies a noble refervoir 
formed of the moft coftly marbles, and enriched by nume¬ 
rous well-executed decorations. This unique apartment 
was formerly divided into 400 Halls, but they have been 
long ago demolilhed. 
The inhabitants of Vineuil, a village exadlly oppofite 
to the place where the palace formerly Hood, refolved to 
flioot the wild beafts in the menagerie, as agents in the 
confpiracy of Conde to ftarve the people. But they were 
apprehenfive that thefe animals might make a fally, and 
wage a war of extermination againft them ; upon which 
conliderations, feeling their courage to be unequal to 
the Ihock of a pitched battle, they determined in folemn 
council to call in the revolutionary army as their aux¬ 
iliaries. As foon as their allies arrived, and had ftationed 
a couple of pieces of artillery on the neighbouring height, 
a general action commenced. A heavy fire was opened 
on the imprifoned fovereigns of the foreft. After a 
breach had been effe&ed, the drums beat a general 
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