N A P 
and partly of works that belonged to the fupprefied con¬ 
vents and churches, and to various palaces of king Fer¬ 
dinand’s. Though not very rich in productions of the 
mod eminent mailers, it neverthelels contains at lead a 
few good pieces of each of the celebrated fchools ; but it 
furpades eveiy other gallery in this particular, that it 
pofl'efl'es a complete feries of all the works of the Cala¬ 
brian and Sicilian painters, who are univerfally dillin- 
guifhed by boldnefs of compofition and force of execu¬ 
tion. Here you meet with works and names of extraor¬ 
dinary merit, to which our catalogues of artifts, and hifto- 
ries of the arts, are total llrangers. Here are the granded 
and moll valuable performances of Lanfranco, in which 
he has reprefented the romantic wildnefs of his native 
country with the greatell energy and in the mod finidied 
manner. This gallery is all'o alierted to polfefs the car¬ 
toons executed by Coreggio himfelf for his vad painting 
for the cupola at Parma. They are certainly beautiful in 
every refpeCt, and well worthy of notice for this realon, 
becaufe the painting of the cupola is become fo very dark, 
thatfcarcely any of the objects can be diferiminated ; but 
whether thefe cartoons are really from the pencil of that 
mader is yet doubted. The collection of cork-models of 
the Temple of Pasdum and other ruins, placed in the 
anti-chamber of this gallery, is likewife deferving of at¬ 
tention. 
From this gallery you proceed into the cabinet of Cam¬ 
panian vafes and all kinds of houlehold utenlils of earthen¬ 
ware and other materials, didributed in feveral fpacious 
and well-arranged apartments. Here you find the greated 
part of the treafures of Nola, Taranto, Herculaneum, 
Pompeii, and other places of antiquity, which have be¬ 
come celebrated for the numerous remains difeovered 
there. No other fimilar cabinet can dand any comparifon 
with this in regard to copioufnefs. The refearches at 
Pompeii have furnilhed almod daily contributions ; and 
though thefe feverally confidered mayfeem unimportant, 
yet each article is of value to thofe who love to contem¬ 
plate the domedic ufages of antiquity, as tending to ren¬ 
der the whole more complete. 
Another door leads from the daircafe to the great pub¬ 
lic library. It is compofed of the Farnefe library, parti¬ 
cularly valuable on account of its manuferipts; of the li¬ 
brary of the Jefuits, of that of the palace, and latterly of 
additions from many of the fupprefled convents. There 
is not yet any complete catalogue of the whole library ; 
but catalogues of the various parts of which it is com¬ 
pofed, though very defective, are diown. The total num¬ 
ber of works to which places have been adigned, as well 
as of thofe to which they have not, was dated at 160,000. 
Of the more ancient, extenlive, and codly, works, there 
is no want; but here, as in all the libraries of any con- 
fequence in Italy, the funds adigned by the date for the 
purchafe of modern books are inadequate to the purpofe. 
But Dr. Sickler obferves, that “ very few, excepting the 
profeifed literati, ever think of reading for information ; 
indeed the number of thofe who read for amufement only 
is very fmall. In the Roman as well as in the Neapolitan 
dates there are towns and villages, where, with the excep¬ 
tion of the prieds and two or three perfons in official fixa¬ 
tions, not a creature can read. In the larger towns the 
mod polilhed circles leek amufement in mufic and dra¬ 
matic exhibitions alone. The extent of the reading of 
females of the highed rank and didinCtion is confined to 
their prayers and the legends of their faints ; and the ig¬ 
norance of the other fex, in the higher as well as in the 
lower clafi'es, is equally deplorable. Two princes of the 
houfe of B. at Rome, one of whom not long fince a< 5 led 
aconfpicuous political part, were twenty years old be¬ 
fore they learned to read, and the elder .was twenty-fix 
when lie was taught to write by his wife at Paris. For 
thefe reafons the exiding public libraries are but little 
frequented. The farther you proceed from the Alps, the 
more they are negleCted. There is dill fome defire of in¬ 
formation at Florence ; lefs at Rome 5 but fcarcely any 
L E. S. 571. 
at Naples. In this city I went almod every day to the co¬ 
pious and indeed unique library in theStudi; but in general 
I was the only vifitor, and a kind of phenomenon to the 
librarians, as they are only accudomed to attend inqui- 
fitive drangers through their rooms, like conductors 
through a cabinet of curiofities 5 fo that all thefe trea¬ 
fures lie difregarded, buried in dud, and confumed by in- 
1'eCts.” 
“ A feparate entrance condu&s to another collection— 
the only one of its kind in the world—the invaluable 
collection of the Herculaneum manuferipts. It is well 
known how thefe are arranged in glafs cafes, how they are 
unrolled and deciphered, and what little fuccefs has hi¬ 
therto attended thefe operations.” 
Although Naples is excellently fituated for commerce, 
and no kingdom produces the necelfaries and luxuries of 
life in greater profufion, yet trade languilhes ; the belt 
filks come from Lyons, and the bed woollen goods from 
England. The chief articles manufactured here are lilk 
dockings, foap, fnud'-boxes of tortoile-diell and of the 
lava of Mount Vefuvius, tables, and ornamental furni¬ 
ture of marble. They are thought to embroider here 
better than in France; and their macaroni is preferred to 
that made in any other part of Italy. The Neapolitans 
excel alfo in liqueurs and confeCtions. Provilions are 
plentiful and cheap ; poultry, game, and filh, are abun¬ 
dant ; fruit and vegetables are to be had all winter in fo 
favourable a climate. The wants of Nature are fo ealiiy 
fatisfied here, that the lower clafs of people work but 
little ; their greated pleafure is to balk in the fun, and do 
nothing. Many of the dreets are more crowded than 
even thofe of London or Paris; the people doing little 
or nothing, and having no public walks or gardens to re- 
lort to. In the midd of all this idlenefs, fewer riots or 
outrages happen than may be expeCted. This is owing 
partly to the national character of the Italians; and part¬ 
ly to the common people here being univerfally fober. 
The great luxury is iced water; and nothing would be 
fo likely to raife a mutiny in Naples as a fcarcity of ice. 
The king grants the monopoly of this commodity to cer¬ 
tain perfons, who are obliged to furnilh the city ail the 
year, at a certain price, which is about three farthings 
a pound. There is not, perhaps, a city in Europe, in 
which fo few of the inhabitants contribute to the wealth 
of the community by ufeful or productive labour, as 
Naples. The number of nobility, prieds, monks, nuns, 
lawyers, mudeians, footmen, and lazzaroni, furpades all 
reafonable proportion. 
The lazzaroni form a confiderable part of the inhabi¬ 
tants of Naples; and thefe have, on fome occafions, had 
the governmentfor a fliort time in theirhands; (lee p. 5+2.) 
They are computed at about 30,000 ; mod of them have 
no fixed habitations, but deep every night under porticos, 
piazzas, or any kind of (belter they can find. Thofe of 
them who have wives and children live in the luburbs, 
near Paufilippo, in huts, or in caverns or chambers dug 
out of that mountain. Some of them gain a fubfid- 
ence by dfliing, others by carrying burdens to or from 
the fhipping; many walk about the dreets ready to run 
on errands, or to perform any labour for a fmall recom- 
penfe. They have generally been reprefented as a lazy, 
licentious, and turbulent, clafs of people; but Dr. Moore 
has a more favourable opinion of their character; aferib- 
ing their idlenefs to want of employment. And Mr. 
Eudace, a more recent obferver, gives a very favourable 
account of them, probably becaule, during the revolu¬ 
tionary troubles, they exerted themlelves modly in fa¬ 
vour of king Ferdinand, a king vvhofe mental endow¬ 
ments are exaCtly upon that fcale that a king’s ought to 
be (fee p. 557). “ The faCt. is (fays Mr. Eudace) that 
this peculiar tribe is neither more nor lefs than the poorer 
part of the labouring clafs, fuch as are attached to no 
particular trade, but willing to work at all, and to take 
any job that is od’ered. If in London, where there is a 
regular tide of commerce, and a condant call for labour, 
there 
