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THE CULTURE OF DWARF CACTI. 
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The most important points in their culture, as in that of other plants, are the selection of proper 
soil for them to grow in, and attention to the manner of potting. In lieu of the miserable poverty- 
stricken lime rubbish and potsherds into which their delicate roots were formerly expected to thrust 
themselves, a little practice will prove that these plants delight in good treatment and a generous soil, 
as much as other vegetable productions. This is proved by Nature herself having placed them on the 
plains, and not on rocks, as is generally supposed. They are discovered surrounded by a thick layer 
of leaf mould or other decayed vegetable matter, the richness of which is conveyed to the roots by the 
rain.* The soil I find most congenial to them is a mixture of two parts thoroughly decayed leaf mould, 
one part good fibry peat, and one part of sharp pit sand; to this may be added a little free loam. 
At least an inch of crocks should be placed at the bottom of each pot, with a piece of th e fibre only 
of peat on them to prevent the soil mixing with the crocks. The operation of potting may be commenced 
in May, about which time healthy plants begin to grow; and may be proceeded with till the middle 
or end cf August, if the weather be sufficiently hot and dry to enable them to make a few roots before 
winter. After potting, supposing the roots to have been disturbed in changing the soil, they 
must be placed on a^ hot dry shelf, fully exposed to the sun, and watered sparingly for a fort¬ 
night, or till the roots have taken to the soil. When the roots are quite round the sides of the 
pots, and the plants in a healthy growing state, they may be watered freely every evening; 
and when the weather is very hot their health will be improved by freely syringing them with soft 
water every morning. The rule for watering is to commence sparingly in March or April, ac¬ 
cording to the amount of sunshine, and to increase it gradually as the sun’s rays increase in 
intensity. In September the water must be gradually lessened, and almost entirely withheld by the 
end of October. After this time a small quantity may be given about once a month if the plants are 
exposed to the light, as in a greenhouse, but if they are stowed away in a cupboard or chest they 
will require none. Some of the healthiest individuals I have seen were grown in a window or 
under a skylight in summer, and stowed away from the end of October till the end of April, in a 
cupboard with crockery, no other care being taken of them than protecting them from mice, and these 
animals must be very much pinched to induce them to meddle with them. Although care must be 
taken that the temperature never falls below the freezing point, it is of importance that they be not 
excited in the winter months. Artificial heat is not only unnecessary to their growth, but is absolutely 
injurious, and if a flue or pipes must be employed to keep out the frost, or dry the air of the house, 
discontinue their use as soon as possible. It would be better to keep out the frost by means of shutters, 
and to ensure them a dry abode in winter by building them a house without drip in a well drained 
locality. These remarks apply chiefly to the natives of Mexico, which, forming the bulk of most 
collections, and comprising the greatest variety of species, are most worthy of our consideration. 
The propagation of these extraordinary plants is effected either by seeds, cuttings, or offsets, some 
of which are formed above, some underground—and sometimes by all these means combined. The 
seed, if ripened early, may be sown as soon as gathered, but if late, should be kept in the pod till 
March. Sow on the same compost as mentioned above, and place the pot near the glass, keeping them 
always damp. This is the only period of their existence at which bottom heat may be safely applied, 
but it is not absolutely necessary. When the plants are three months old, prick them off about an 
inch apart, and do not be in a hurry to pot them singly until they are well squeezed together, as they 
evidently delight in company when young. Offsets may be removed at any time in the growing 
season, care being taken that they are of a sufficient size to support themselves till they take root. 
If, however, you wish some kinds to flower freely, you must remove the offsets as soon as you perceive 
them, with the point of a knife. This applies to Echinopsis multiplex, and a few others, which, 
although among the most beautiful and showy species in our collections, are seldom seen to blossom, 
for want of attending to the removal of offsets as soon as they appear. 
Propagation by cuttings, as applied to the stout-growing kinds, requires some skill, and a little 
knowledge of their nature. As a general rule, do not depend upon a joint for roots, as they are pro¬ 
duced more freely from a clean cut. Cut only such plants as are in good health; the piece to be 
removed should be in a growing state. Prepare a place for their reception by placing a pan of 
perfectly dried sand on a hot dry shelf; expose the wound to the full sun by laying the cutting on its 
side for a few days. When perfectly dry, stand the cutting on the top of the sand. Inspect it now 
and then, and if any damp has accumulated dry it again in the sun. As soon as the roots are visible, 
place the cutting in a single pot, on the surface of the compost recommended above, water sparingly 
for a fortnight or three weeks, and your plant will be safe. To exemplify this method of cutting, I 
will mention one instance just now successfully completed. I had a fine Mammillaria Parkinsoniana 
* It is the accumulation of this which disfigures and discolours the lower part of imported specimens. 
