THE GARDENERS’ AND NATURALISTS’ CALENDAR FOR SEPTEMBER. 
101 
Magnolia purpurea (Japan, 1790). This is a very 
hardy compact-growing shrub, with a dense deep green 
foliage, and a profusion of purple flowers, very hand¬ 
some, and should be extensively planted. 
Magnolia Kobus. Another Japan species, introduced 
in 1804, with pure white flowers and handsome foliage. 
Magnolia conspicua (China, 1789). A very attractive 
species, quite hardy, the flowers appear early in spring- 
before the foliage expands, and so great is their profu¬ 
sion that the tree not unfrequently appears completely 
clothed in pure white, fully bearing out its name. The 
foliage is also very fine. M. Soulangeana a hybrid va¬ 
riety, is a very desirable plant, and by many preferred 
because the flowers and foliage expand simultaneously. 
Magnolia grandifiora (Carolina, 1734). 
Magnolia grandifiora JExoniensis (77. America, 1734). 
Magnolia grandifiora ferrugmea (jST. America, 1734), 
The above three, which are the best of the grandi¬ 
fiora class, are too well known to need a particular de¬ 
scription. They are more hardy than is generally sup¬ 
posed. I have seen them flourishing luxuriantly in the 
open border, and we have them growing five feet above 
the level of a twelve foot wall, very much exposed to 
cold and cutting winds, yet they both grow and flower 
well. J. C. R. 
Carnations and Picotees .—Attend to those layered 
last month, which will soon be ready for potting off— 
in doing which the first requisite is good soil, such as 
good turfy loam, powdered charcoal, and sand, Manure 
is not required at this season. After potting a gentle 
watering will be required, and the plants must be placed 
on coal ashes in a cold frame, where they may be kept 
from excessive heat. As the layers are removed the 
heel from which they were taken should be cut close 
and the old plants be turned into the beds, i.e. if the 
layers are a sufficient stock for the following season. 
Examine the seed pods, and cut them off as they indi¬ 
cate ripeness, and hang them in an airy situation to get 
properly matured. 
Dahlias now require a great share of the amateur’s 
attention, more particularly where they are grown for I 
exhibition. Watering, aud securing the shoots are 
things not to be overlooked ; thin away all misshapen 
buds, or those likely to be of no use, and also where too 
great a quantity exist. Light flowers are much im¬ 
proved in beauty by covering from the sun and air, but 
the darker sorts should only have a partial shade, and 
that but for a short time, as much of their brilliancy is 
lost by close coverings. Seedlings should be carefully 
examined, destroying those that are of inferior shape, 
or like the sorts already in cultivation. As the blooms 
fade they should be cut off, unless required for seed, as 
keeping the plants clear of faded flowers much assists 
the successive blooms. 
Hollyhocks. —Secure from wind by stakes, and water 
as they require it. Where seed is an object, the decay¬ 
ing petals should be picked off, as they will be found to 
retain much moisture. Seed should only be saved 
from first-rate sorts, as a little really good seed is better 
than a quantity of inferior. 
Pansies —The rooted cuttings and the divisions of 
the old plants may now be planted out, watering as 
they require it. Seedlings that are blooming at this 
time should be marked, if found to possess any charac¬ 
ter, as many will, doubtless, improve in spring. 
Pinks .—The beds intended to bloom these in next 
summer should be made and planted this month, as they 
invariably give finer flowers than those planted at a 
later period. To grow this tribe well, they should be 
well treated, the soil should be good loam well manured 
and deeply dug, and the plants planted a foot apart; 
the situation light and aiiy, and free from the attacks 
of game, as there is nothing they seem more fond of 
feeding upon. Where any exist, it is better to guard 
the plants by netting. 
Ranunculuses. —Examine the roots and see they are 
not suffering from mould or other causes, as the bloom 
of the following season will be greatly deteriorated if 
such is the case. 
Tulips. —These also should undergo another exami¬ 
nation previous to planting; and where deficiencies 
occur, there is more chance of renewing, than though 
the orders were left till the day of planting, in which 
case it is often found that “ delays are dangerous.” 
T. B. 
FRUIT-GARDEN.—IN-DOOR DEPART¬ 
MENT. 
Fruiting Pines. —Fires will now be requisite to as¬ 
sist the autumn fruit. The temperature, however, need 
not be very high during the night; make use of all the 
sun’s rays you can, by early closing. A liberal allow¬ 
ance of air during the early part of the day, and occa¬ 
sional watering with soot water, or other weak liquid 
manure, will carry this crop on to perfection; remove 
fruit intended to be kept some time some days before it 
is perfectly ripe, and place the plants in a cool dry 
house. 
If your system of growing Pines is in pots, now is 
a good time to arrange the fruiting bed for next season, 
which we may presume is empty, and made in order for 
their reception, by being refilled with fresh plunging 
materials. Select for the first crop those plants which 
have been longest potted, in accordance with our di¬ 
rections ; allow a considerable space between the plants,, 
and place them as near the glass as you can with safety 
to their leaves ;. they will require all the light and air 
you can give them from this time, with only moderate 
watering: see last Calendar. Where the plants are 
growing in the free soil of the beds, the same principles 
are applicable; the great object during the autumn 
months should be, by abundance of light and air, mod¬ 
erate moisture, approaching to dryness, as autumn ad¬ 
vances, to enable the plant to organize its fluids, and 
get prepared by maturing its growth, for showing fruit 
at an early season. For Succession Plants look at our 
previous Calendar. 
Vinery. —Where Grapes are required particularly 
early, the Vines in the early house may be pruned now, 
and the sashes put on the beginning of next month. 
Thi’ips are great pests in late Vineries, nothing will 
arrest their progress but oft-repeated fumigations with 
tobacco ; take advantage of damp evenings for the pur¬ 
pose. Maintain in all houses containing Grapes slight 
fires occasionally, to air the houses and keep up a con¬ 
stant ventilation, not only to preserve the Grapes, but 
to prevent the mildew which is now making great ra¬ 
vages in places, and which increases rapidly in damp, 
badly ventilated houses. If it unfortunately attacks 
your Vines, use nothing but dry sulphur dusted on the 
infected parts with a pair of bellows, and keep the house 
dry and airy. The last crop of Grapes will be colouring 
towards the end of the month; reduce the moisture of 
the house ; make fires in very wet or cold weather— 
more particularly if the kind of Grapes are Muscats or 
St. Peter’s. 
Vines in Pots will now be ripening their wood; 
gradually withhold water, using only liquid manure ; 
take off all laterals, and expose them to all the light you 
are able. 
Whenever any of the houses are out of work have 
the sashes painted, and all repairs completed before the 
approach of winter. J. S. 
Figs. —As the first crop of this fruit will be borne 
on the shoots which are now being made, do not, on 
any account, stop them at present; the consequence of 
which would be to cause the embryo Figs to become 
