102 
THE GARDENERS’ AND NATURALISTS’ CALENDAR FOR SEPTEMBER. 
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too largely developed, to stand for the first crop next 
season. Allow them first to finish their growth, you 
may then stop them. Short-j ointed, well-ripened wood, 
of moderate vigour of growth, is the certain accompani¬ 
ment of fruitfulness in the Fig; and the means of ob¬ 
taining which is to confine the roots, to withhold water, 
and to furnish all the light and ah’ possible. With 
plants in pots or tubs this is easily attainable; and, 
with those growing in borders, the means we have just 
mentioned will accomplish that end. 
Peaches. —The lights may now be removed from the 
early-forced houses for ten days or a fortnight. The 
weather will soon remove any leaves or filth that may 
be on the trees. We would not, however, leave them off 
after the end of the month; as, in case of heavy rains, 
the borders may become saturated with moisture ; and, 
if frosty weather sets in, it will do the wood no good, 
though, if it be thoroughly ripened, it will not do it 
any injury. As we see no material benefit arising from 
exposure, we always have the lights on by October; for, 
by giving all the air possible by day and night, we at¬ 
tain all the advantages that can be derived from full 
exposure, without running risk of injury to the trees. 
Strawberries .-—Pay particular attention to these 
plants just now , give them liberal supplies of water, and 
pinch off all the runners, as soon as they appear. Any 
little trouble bestowed on these now will be repaid when 
the forcing season arrives. 
In a previous Calendar we mentioned having some¬ 
times got a good crop of late fruit, by planting out in a 
south border those plants which were forced very early. 
From a batch that was planted out the first week in 
May last, we have now (August 16th) a most excellent 
crop of Keens’ Seedlings, and the plants are for min g 
splendid crowns for next season. Thus, in addition to 
obtaining a good crop of fruit, there is the advantage 
of a year gained, by planting these instead of this 
year’s runners. M. S. 
Cucumber House. —Those plants that have been long- 
in a bearing state will not be likely to continue so vig¬ 
orous as in the early part of the season; and, as the 
time is now fast approaching when there must be an 
entirely new stock of plants to furnish the house for 
Christmas Cucumbers, it will not be necessary to fill 
up any vacancies that may occur. Previous directions 
as to heat and air, and keep a sharp look-out for green¬ 
fly and thrips. 
Bung Bed. —Presuming that previous directions have 
been attended to, your plants of esteemed varieties will 
now be growing. The Syon House is the best winter 
Cucumber, and if there is not seed at hand, cuttings 
from clean plants will make a good substitute. Keep 
up a moist heat to insure a clean healthy growth, and 
give abundance of pot room. Allow plenty of space 
between the plants, to insure a healthy development. 
The only preparation as to soil I make is to cart it fresh 
from a common, break it to pieces with a spade, and, 
after supplying a good drainage with any faggot or 
brushwood, I proceed to put in the soil—rough grass 
and all together, without any admixture of dung or 
leaf mould, and using as much as sixteen or eighteen 
inches thick. By so doing I am never troubled with 
worms in the soil, and the plants continue, with few 
exceptions to hear fruit for ten months out of the twelve. 
Melons. —In this department previous directions 
must be attended to. W. T. 
FRUIT-GARDEN.—OUT-DO OH DEPART¬ 
MENT. 
Preparations should now commence for the planting 
of fruit trees next month. Much depends on the soil, 
subsoil, and situation, as to the preparations required; 
but there are general principles which are of universal 
application, and none more so than the thorough drain¬ 
age of the soil in which the trees are to be planted. 
This must be done carefully and well; otherwise, all 
other preparations will be of no avail. I shall have 
more to say on the subject next month. 
Apples and Pears. —Gather the fruit as it arrives at 
maturity, which may be known by its readily leav¬ 
ing the tree, and also by the ends of the fruit turn¬ 
ing brown. Great care and attention is required in 
gathering fruit for keeping ; for, if gathered too soon, 
it will shrivel, and if allowed to remain on the tree 
beyond the period of maturity, much of the best fruit 
will fall at the time of gathering, if not before, 
and hence become useless for keeping. Some gardeners 
make two or three gatherings of the fruit of a tree, 
others, on the contrary, have a general gathering of all 
sorts at the same time; the first is quite unnecessary 
for keeping sorts, the last most injurious to the keeping 
and flavour of the fruit. With regard to storing, it is 
most objectionable to lay the fruit in heaps to sweat it. 
Immediately after gathering, Pears should be laid singly, 
and Apples not more than two or three deep; the 
fruit can then be examined without bruising. A fruit- 
room should be cool, dry, and not subject to much 
variation of temperature. All heating apparatus should 
be dispensed with if possible; the shelves to be made 
with the best white deal, cut into slips, and the slips 
put half an inch apart. Put no straw or other material 
beneath the fruit. The laterals of wall and espalier 
trees may now be cut in pretty closely, there being no 
danger of then- breaking at the base of the shoots. 
Peach and Nectarine. —The shoots intended for 
future bearing must now be kept closely nailed in, and 
all the laterals not required, must be removed, so that 
the fruit has the full benefit of the sun, from which it 
derives both colour and flavour. A few of the leaves 
that shade the fruit may also be removed, as it is ne¬ 
cessary to give it every advantage possible, it generally 
being backward this year. The same means should he 
adopted for catching the falling fruit that I recom¬ 
mended for Apricots last month. Should insects be 
troublesome, the trees may be washed with clear water, 
but no mixture must be used until the fruit is gathered. 
Filbert .—To preserve this fruit in good condition, it 
should not be gathered until thoroughly ripe, which 
may be known by the husk or calyx turning brown, 
and by the nut readily leaving it. The fruit must be 
thoroughly dry when gathered, and after laying thinly 
in a dry any room for a week or two, they may be 
stored away in a cellar, which I have found to keep the 
kernel plump ; whereas, if stored in a dry and airy room 
for any length of time, the kernel becomes shriveled. 
Grape Vine. —It is now necessary that the fruit have 
all the sun and warmth it is possible to give it. All 
unnecessary shoots must be removed, and also a few of 
the leaves that shade the fruit. If a few lights from 
the frames could be spared, a temporary structure might 
be put up, which would greatly hasten the process of 
ripening ; and the trouble would be amply repaid by 
the superior quality of the fruit. All available means 
must be used to keep wasps from it, as they always 
attack the best bunches. I think they are not very 
numerous this year; I have seen but two during the 
last two months. I paid for all the Queens brought 
me, to the end of June ; which, perhaps, may account 
for their scarcity here. 
Gooseberry and Currant. —Those that are matted for 
late use should have the mats taken off, in order to re¬ 
move the dead leaves; which, if allowed to remain, 
will in a short time cause the fruit to turn mouldy, and 
rot. The mats may afterwards be replaced. 
Plum and Cherry .—The late sorts of the former, 
such as Coe’s Golden Drop, and the Imperatrice, should 
