(O' 
SOME HINTS ON BUDDING ROSES. 
101 
I may remark that, provided the tree could be so fixed in its new situation as to prevent the wind 
moving it, a large hall is not necessary, unless indeed, a ball sufficiently large to carry all the roots 
with it could be removed. This would be a matter of considerable difficulty and expense, and there¬ 
fore I say a ball is not indispensable. If this were properly understood, much of that expense which 
now attends the moving of large trees might be dispensed with ; but then the tree must be carefully 
removed, and as carefully put in its new place, or success is hopeless. The proper way to prepare the 
the tree for removal, is to commence at the very extremity of the roots, and pick and clear away all 
soil from them, taking, at the same time, the greatest care not to cut the roots, and they should be 
tied up and carefully covered with damp mats to prevent their getting dried. When you have got 
so far as it is intended, to leave a hall to aid in fixing the tree in its new place—and where it is gener¬ 
ally the practice to begin to take up a tree by digging a trench round it, and smashing through 
every root, without thinking that they are cutting off the sources from whence the tree in its 
new position would derive the very life-blood of its existence—it will he necessary to pick under the 
ball to get at and cut the tap roots, and having done this, the tree may he lifted out of its place. The 
machine being provided, place the tree upon it, and then it may he removed to the place intended to 
receive it. The hole should he sufficiently large to admit of every root being spread out at full length, and 
not only that, hut it should be well loosened up at bottom, at least a foot deep, to facilitate the easy escape 
of superfluous water. I need scarcely say all land upon which trees are to be planted should be 
thoroughly drained. These precautions having been adopted, proceed to fill in the soil, which must 
he of good quality, carefully putting it down amongst the roots, using plenty of water to consolidate 
it as you proceed ; do not be afraid of giving too much, it will soon soak away if the hole has been 
properly prepared; in fact, the late Mr. McNab, a high authority, recommended the soil to he made 
wet enough to he almost like thick paint. In filling in the soil, avoid the absurd, though very general 
practice of moving the tree backwards and forwards to get the soil down among the roots. This I 
have called an absurd practice, for every pull you give the top draws the roots out of their places, 
and when the tree goes hack into its proper place, the roots being unable to push themselves back 
again, remain doubled up under the tree, thus thwarting the object you had in view of spreading the 
roots carefully out at the commencement. It will he necessary to fill in a little higher all round to 
allow for sinking, and when this is finished, the tree should immediately he propped up to prevent 
the wind moving it, or otherwise, if left till the next day, you may find it lying on its side. If it 
has been removed with the leaves on, it will be necessary frequently to syringe it all over, and if 
the weather he dry, occasional watering at the roots will be indispensable. Above all things take 
care of the small fibres in taking the tree up and planting it, and success will be almost certain. In 
the following spring the ground for some distance round the trees should be trenched two feet deep, 
the young roots will then easily penetrate it. 
SOME HINTS ON BUDDING ROSES. 
By Me. J. SAUL, Durdham Down Nursery, Bristol. 
fHAT is the best weather for budding ? I am told damp cloudy weather is. How often would 
such a question, asked by an amateur, obtain such an answer ? How startling, therefore, to him 
to be informed to the contrary! Why, he has seen it recommended in books! Yes, nothing more 
generally recommended than damp cloudy weather for budding! To say bright warm sunny weather 
is best, provided the stocks are in proper condition, will sound like heresy; extensive experience , how¬ 
ever, tells me such is the case. I may he asked why ? And I would answer, that in warm weather 
the sap is more gelatinous; and the bud, on being extracted and inserted in the stock quickly, pro¬ 
perly tied, &c., soon takes. On the contrary, in wet cloudy weather the sap is more thin and watery, 
and the hud 'will not unite so freely. To this we add that a fall of rain—likely in such weather—after 
the buds are inserted, will fill up the incisions, and thereby rot and perish the buds before they have 
time to unite with the stocks. Not only is clear warm weather best for the experienced budder, but 
likewise for the amateur and tyro. 
Another question is common: Is it necessary to extract the wood from the bud ? I answer, yes ; 
whilst American writers say, no! The Americans, indeed, work nearly all their fruit trees, ornamental 
trees, Roses, &c., with the wood left in the hud as cut from the shoot; this may best suit their hot dry 
climate, hut after giving it repeated and extensive trials, I must give the preference to our old system 
of extracting the wood from the bud, not only for Roses but ornamental trees, forest trees, &c.; for in 
