THE GARDENERS' AND NATURALISTS’ CALENDAR FOR OCTOBER. 
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by plants which will cause no regret for their removal 
when they stand in the way ; those intended to remain 
permanently, should he so disposed that in after years 
they may give a character to the place, and an evidence 
of design on the part of the planter. It is needless to 
dilate upon this, as it is an idea which has been gradu¬ 
ally becoming impressed upon the mi n ds of men of 
taste, and has arisen on the one hand from the greatly 
increased mass of materials which the planter possesses 
for producing effect in landscape or garden scenery, 
and on the other, from careful observation on the 
misapplication of tb e means possessed by former plan¬ 
ters. It is not mal-apropos to this subject to record an 
observation, made to the writer a few days ago, by 
Lord Hardinge, who certainly did not go through India 
with his eyes shut, and whose taste for planting is at 
the present time being exercised with very great effect. 
Speaking of the Cedrus Deodara, his lordship observed, 
“It is all very well to get them to feather out close to 
the ground, they are certainly handsome, but I want to 
see them as I often have in India, shooting up then’ im¬ 
mense trunks to a great height, from whence the 
branches diverge horizontally, and droop in the most 
elegant manner.” To attain this object, his lordship 
proposes to denude his trees of three or four of the 
lower branches annually. In some cases this might be 
a good plan, but I should rather, if it could be done, 
attain it by planting other shrubs so close as to kill 
the imdergrowth gradually, taking care to give the 
Deodar plenty of head room. 
Shrubbery .—The length of the preceding remarks, 
which appeared to me appropriate to the present season, 
preclude my continuing my list of desirable shrubs, 
which will be resumed next month. Operations now 
are all active, planting, re-arranging, alterations, and 
formation of new parts, being in full season. J. C. R. 
Auriculas .—The time has now arrived when these 
will require a share of the florist’s attention. Examine 
the pots to see if the drainage is quite complete, for if 
water remains to sour the mould in which they are 
growing, there is little chance of success. The frames 
and lights by which they are to be protected should be 
examined to see they are in no way deficient of their 
charge ; the frame should be supported on bricks at 
each comer which will allow of free air, and the pots 
plunged in coal ashes, as a preventative of worms. 
Carnations and Picotees .—Attend to the directions in 
last month’s calendar, potting off layers, Ac., Ac., as 
they require it, and protecting them from excessive wet. 
Dahlias .—The season of their beauty is now draw¬ 
ing to a close, previous to which see that the names are 
correct; that the desired seed is secured before being 
injured by frost, and that the promising seedlings are 
receiving a due share of attention. It is advisable in 
the event of a sudden change to have a little earth 
drawn round the stem, and crown of the roots, in a 
conical form, which has a two-fold purpose, that of pre¬ 
serving them from frost; and seeming the crowns from 
too much moisture. 
J lolly hocks. —Attend to the gathering of seed from 
the best kinds only, by which means alone is the chance 
of an improved race to be expected. 
Pansies —intended to bloom well in spring should, 
without loss of time, be planted in a well prepared bed 
of well decomposed cow manure and leaf mould, and in 
a situation sheltered, without being dark and confined. 
If the natural soil is too stiff or adhesive, some proper 
should be substituted if practicable, or the plants be kept 
in pots till spring. In the meanwhile, the soil, by very 
frequent stirring, frosts, Ac., Ac., may become more 
uitable. 
Pinks. —These should now be all planted as recom¬ 
mended last month, in the beds in which they are in- 
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tended to bloom next summer, reserving a store in pots 
for deaths that are likely to occur during whiter. 
Tulips. —Offsets and weak bulbs of these should be 
got in during the month, which will be found very advan¬ 
tageous to their future development, as every day they are 
kept out of the ground after they have commenced a new 
growth tends materially to weaken their bloom. The 
main stock may be also got in, if the state of the ground 
will permit, preserving all the uniformity of colour, 
height, and sorts, as to give the beds, when they are in 
bloom, the greatest possible effect. Avoid using the 
dibble in planting them—a practice only calculated to 
compress the soil and prevent the bulb from making a 
bold start. The best method is to mark the bed into 
lines seven inches asimder, and again crossing them at 
the same distance, and plant in the crossing of the two 
lines. Use a little river sand round the bulbs, and re¬ 
place the soil lightly to the depth of four inches ; the beds 
must then be levelled, hooped, and matted ; as the heavy 
rains are injurious before the bulbs are in a state of 
growth. T. E. 
FRUIT-GARDEN.—IN-DOOR DEPART- 
, MENT. 
Fruiting Pines .—Pay attention to the autumn crop 
of fruit by watering when necessary, and syringe oc¬ 
casionally on fine afternoons. Slight fires by night 
are now necessary, and continued through the day 
when the thermometer indicates a temperature lower 
than 70 deg. The plants for next season’s crop will 
now have made their growth, and consequently will 
now require a drier atmosphere, much air, and as 
much exposure to light as you can get for them. This 
will enable your plants during the season of rest to pro¬ 
vide a sufficiency of food for the future fruit. The night 
temperature of these plants must not exceed 60 degrees. 
Succession Pit .—Regulate, at this season, all young 
plants in pots; such as require a shift, let them have 
it. Refill your beds with fresh or partly fresh plunging 
material, and arrange your stock for the winter, keep¬ 
ing them near the glass, and place them a liberal dis¬ 
tance apart. Keep up the required heat by fresh addi¬ 
tions to the linings, or slight fires, if such be your 
mode of heating. 
Vineries .—The principal care here is to keep all 
your houses containing ripe grapes as dry and airy as 
possible; look over each bunch once or twice a week, 
and remove decayed berries; and pinch off laterals, and 
useless or crowded leaves, to admit air to the bunches. 
Fire heat wiE be requisite, not so much during the 
night as on damp days; a little, however, may be con¬ 
tinued through the night when wet, or very cold; as, to 
keep Grapes fresh till January, it is necessary the fo¬ 
liage should be kept green and hea-tliy. This is mate¬ 
rially assisted by a foot or two of dry leaves being- 
placed on the border towards the end of the month, 
which, by keeping the border somewhat warm, pro¬ 
longs the growing season, and keeps the Grapes fresh. 
The early houses may be started the beginning or 
middle of the month, if Grapes are required early. Pre¬ 
suming the Vines have been dressed and tied, place on 
the sashes, and, if you have the opportunity, keep up 
the heat for the present by a ridge of hot stable-dung- 
inside the house, which by tinning over daily, and 
adding fresh material occasionally, will keep the house 
sufficiently moist, and cause the Vines to break strong 
and regularly. A lining of leaves and dung should 
likewise be placed on the outside border. The night 
temperature may be 45 to 50 degrees. 
Vines in Pots will now be ripening their wood: 
allow them all the light and air you can, and gradually 
reduce the quantity of water. The great object should 
now be to to get firm and well ripened canes. Where 
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