156 
TRANSPLANTING EVERGREEN SHRUBS AND TREES 
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ON TRANSPLANTING MODERATE SIZED EVERGREEN SHRUBS AND TREES. 
By Me. JAMES M’NAB, Curator op the Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh. 
(OOR the information of those whose intention it is to carry on transplanting operations during the 
A present winter and spring, not being provided with the regular transplanting machinery, I beg to 
offer the following observations :— 
The tree or shrub is first prepared by opening a trench all round, and at a sufficient distance from 
the stem to prevent cutting the roots with the spade. After getting down about two feet, take a small 
four or five toothed tan fork, and remove the earth gently from the ball, in order to save as many of 
the fibres as possible. While removing the soil, great care is requisite to keep the ball of earth as 
perpendicular as possible, even below what is intended to be the under surface, and on no account un¬ 
dermine until the ball is sufficiently bound up. Carry on the reducing of the ball in a perpendicular 
manner till within a foot and a-half or two feet of the stem; this, however, must be judged according 
to the size of the plant, the matted nature of the ball of earth with the roots, or to the strength which 
can be commanded at the time of lifting. "Where human exertion is to be the raising power, it is better 
to curtail the ball of earth, so as the strength at command will be sufficient to raise the mass without 
difficulty, or stressing the individuals, which is not unfrequently the case when too much is attempted, 
besides, the plant is apt to sustain injury by the loosening of the soil from the roots, whereas, if a 
smaller ball of earth were attempted, the risk of injuring to the plant is much less. Supposing the ball 
of earth reduced to the size required, the strong roots, if any, should be cut close to the surface of the 
ball, and the smaller or more flexible roots tied to the remaining mass. Round the ball of earth and 
roots, place some soft straw or hay, and surround the whole with a mat, previously doubled long ways, 
keeping the doubled portion lowermost, but not below the level of that part of the ball intended to 
be the bottom; this, however, must be judged according to the depth the roots are found. Sometimes 
the ball will be found to bear a much greater proportion of depth than breadth, but more frequently 
the reverse. After adjusting the mat properly, tie round it loosely, within six inches of the top, and 
six inches of the bottom, a piece of untarred yarn or packthread, and then place between the yarn 
and mat, a sufficient number of pieces of thin boarding, each varying from two to three inches broad, 
of equal lengths, and from three to four inches apart all round the ball, keeping the yarn of sufficient 
tightness to adjust them properly, and at the same time to prevent their falling down. The most 
convenient wood for the purpose is barrel staves, keeping the concave side next 
the ball. After the spars or staves have been properly arranged, a strong half¬ 
inch tarred rope doubled, must be put round the upper part of the ball, making 
it fast in front but not too tight, take the remaining portion of the doubled rope 
down the front as in Fig. I, and surround the ball with it again near the bot¬ 
tom, afterwards twist the ends of the rope several times round the lower double 
each way, so as to fix it without having recourse to knotting, which must always 
be avoided. After the ropes have been adjusted of moderate tightness, place under the rope at each 
side of the ball, a small piece of packthread or tarred yarn, about twelve or fourteen inches long, one 
on the upper, and the other on the under rope. Wrack sticks must be used both on the top and 
bottom ropes, and on each side, then wrack both up gently, and at the same time twisting up the 
ropes to a sufficient tightness, then tie the ends of the wrack-pin down with the piece of short rope 
yarn previously put in. 
The method just described is quite sufficient for ordinary sized balls, but if the mass is large, it is 
necessary to use larger ropes, and two wracks upon each rope. 
Supposing now that the ball is fir ml y bound together, begin to under mi ne on one side; but, before 
doing so, it is necessary at this stage of the operation to consider which way the plant (tree or shrub) 
can be easiest taken out from the shrubbery in which we shall suppose it to be growing ; if egress is 
easiest afforded on the south side, the under minin g must take place on the east and west sides. While 
undermining the one side, it is necessary to put a prop between the ball and the bank on the opposite 
side, so as to prevent the possibility of the ball slipping down, until the undermining is completed. If 
the ball is solid, much of the earth below not containing roots can be removed with propriety; but if 
loose, it is requisite to put a little straw or soft mat pad, and then insert a strong board varying from 
6 to 8 inches in breadth, and of such a length as to project beyond the ball at each end about 2 inches. 
When the one side is finished, remove the prop and allow the ball to lean gently down on the lifting 
board just put in, remove now the loose soil from the opposite side, and place below a little straw or 
soft mat pad, and a corresponding lifting board to that used on the opposite side. This operation com- 
