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THE GARDENERS’ AND NATURALISTS’ CALENDAR FOR NOVEMBER. 
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species, but veiy beautiful when in bloom ; is well 
adapted for growing amongst large masses of rock. 
S. Findley ana (Himalayas).—Both foliage and flowers 
of this species are fine and distinct, but the habit is not 
good, as the tips of the shoots are generally killed by 
the frost. It should not be planted prominently for¬ 
ward, as the spikes of bloom are generally six or seven 
feet from the ground; therefore, if planted behind some 
dwarfer shrubs, the really beautiful long spikes of bloom 
will bend gracefully over them, and meet with many ad¬ 
mirers. 
S. Reevesiana (China).—At present this species has 
not shown itself an abundant bloomer, but the foliage 
is distinct, and the habit tolerable. In places where it 
will bloom well, it will be a desirable addition. 
S. bella (Nepaul).—A pretty species, with small 
corymbs of pink flowers, and a rather dwarf habit. 
S. Aricefolia (North America).—This species, when 
in flower, is one of the most showy of the genus. The 
habit is good, and the dense spikes of white flowers are 
produced in great abundance. 
Spirea nutans .—Under this name I possess a variety 
in every way desirable. It is of a more compact habit than 
most others, and produces a great abundance of clusters 
of white flowers. The above are amongst the best of 
the shrubby portion of the genus. Most of them are in¬ 
clined to ramble, and will require a liberal use of the 
knife to keep them compact. J. C. R. 
Auriculas —being now in their winter quarters re¬ 
quire but little else than attention being paid to air, and 
the pots occasionally examined to see no worms are at 
work at the roots, which may easily be discovered by 
the casts thrown upon the surface of the soil. On fine 
days the lights should be quite off. 
Carnations and Picotees .—Layers of these should all 
be potted off by this time, and placed in their winter 
habitation; regarding more especially security from 
dampness, but by no means cover them when the state 
of the weather will allow of their being fully exposed. 
Dahlias .—With the exception of the havoc the late 
winds have made, these autumnal beauties are yet 
fresh and gay. It would, therefore, be premature to 
advise their being taken up, more especially if the pre¬ 
caution given last month has been attended to; but 
when the Ice King shall have taken the last chance of 
freshness to his shade, no time should be lost in taking 
them up, securing the names by means of labels securely 
fastened by leaden (or some such) wire, and stowed 
away, stalks downwards, in the place most convenient 
and secure from damp and frost. Some seedlings that 
have bloomed late, and the plants yet weak, would be 
benefited by being potted and kept dry for the winter. 
Hollyhocks —may now be cut down and propagated 
by cuttings from the old stools, as also by eyes from the 
flowering stems, but by no means should they be forced 
by too much warmth to accomplish this end. 
Pansies .—A stock of these should now be potted off 
to reserve in cold frames, for the purpose of filling up 
vacancies, or making new beds, in the early spring. 
Those in beds examine to see that they are not disturbed 
by worms or the action of the wind. Seedlings not 
planted, had better be deferred till spring. 
Pinks .—Those planted last month, from the favour¬ 
able state of the weather, are looking as healthy as the 
most ardent cultivator-can desire ; and will only require 
an occasional glance to see that the winds do not loosen 
them. Where such is the case a small peg or stick may 
be used to keep them secure. See also that the labels 
are correct. 
Polyanthuses —in beds would be greatly benefited if 
the surface soil was stirred, and a top dressing applied, 
consisting of equal parts maiden loam, leaf mould, and 
well decomposed cow manure. Attend to the seedlings 
and see they are secure, as they are apt to become loos¬ 
ened at the bottom, when they should be secured by a 
gentle pressure. 
Tulips .—Lose no time in planting what bulbs of 
these yet remain out—regarding more especially the 
state of the soil—as it is very injurious to them to plant 
in soil that is very wet; and as a greater chance of their 
well doing, the beds should be hooped over and matted 
in the event of much wet. T. B. 
FRUIT-GARDEN.—IN-DOOR DEPART¬ 
MENT. 
Fruiting Pines .—The plants for next year’s fruiting 
wiR now be at rest. Keep the air of the house dry, 
and allow them plenty of ventilation. Less water 
should now be given, and use all the means you can to 
mature the growth made by the plants dining the sum¬ 
mer months. Attend to the plants now showing fruit, 
by keeping up a rather higher temperature, to assist 
them to bloom freely. Fruit now swelling should have 
the requisite waterings, with a moister atmosphere; 
the bottom heat should now be made up to last through 
the winter months. < 
Succession Plants.—'Little will be required here be¬ 
yond attention to the bottom heat and linings. In 
whatever way they are grown, the moisture of the air 
must be gradually reduced. Give air at all opportu¬ 
nities, and make your plants, by a liberal allowance of 
air and drier top heat, in a condition to pass through 
the dark months of winter with safety. 
Vineries .—The advice in our last calendar respect¬ 
ing the management of late vineries, will he quite 
applicable for this month. In addition, we would 
strongly recommend some protection to preserve the 
borders from heavy rain and snow through the winter; 
we employ a coating of rough mortar and fine gravel, 
spread on with a spade, and beat firm; such may be 
removed next March. Other materials will suggest 
themselves, as felt or tarpauling. 
Early Vinery .—If this house was started last month, 
considerable care will be required in keeping a tempera¬ 
ture sufficiently regular to enable the Vines to break 
freely. For this purpose, if you have a body of fer¬ 
menting dung inside the house, turn it over each morn¬ 
ing; and, by timely additions, sufficient steam will be 
generated to preserve the atmosphere in a genial state. 
If such plan is not convenient, or practicable, the 
troughs over the pipes or flues must he kept filled, and 
the house syringed frequently to obtain the requisite 
humidity. The night temperature should not exceed 
fifty degrees, till each bud is fully swelled, when it 
may be gradually raised to fifty-five. An increase in 
sunny days may be allowed of twenty to twenty-five 
degrees; and, by fire heat, ten to fifteen above the 
night temperature. Be particular in keeping the out¬ 
side border in a moderately warm state ; for this pur¬ 
pose watch the fermenting materials. If leaves are 
principally used, it is a good plan to protect them by 
a coat of thatch. 
Vines in Pots .—Remove out of the houses, protect 
the roots, and tie up the stems to stakes, or place them 
where the canes can be secured from being broken. If 
pots are intended to be forced for the earliest crop, 
time may be saved in breaking them by plunging the 
pots in a dung pit, and applying a lining of dung. When 
the buds begin to swell remove them to the fruiting 
house. 
Routine .—WKere it is intended to make new borders 
next spring, materials should now be collected for the 
purpose. Save all odd wood, &c., to enable you to get 
a good heap of charred material during the winter. 
J. S. 
