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THE GARDENERS’ AND NATURALISTS’ CALENDAR FOR NOVEMBER. 
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Figs .—These must on no consideration he exposed 
to frost, nor even to a temperature below thirty-five 
degrees ; for it is of the very utmost importance to keep 
the embryo Figs from injury; as, if these be hurt by 
frost, or otherwise, we lose the first crop of fruit next 
season. Where grown in a house by themselves, the 
lights must not he taken off, hut give them plenty of 
air when the weather permits. Plants that are grown 
in pots, or tubs, are very easily managed, as they can 
be removed to a sheltered shed, or bam, where they 
can be kept safe from frost, until wanted to force. 
They should now receive their winter dressing, by re¬ 
moving all dead leaves, old ligatures, and everything 
likely to harbour insects. They should also receive a 
dressing of the following mixture :—a little soft soap, 
sulphur, clay, and tobacco-water, reduced, with water, j 
to about the consistency of paint; this is to he applied 
with a brush. 
Peaches.— These trees should be exposed as much 
as possible to the atmosphere, unless frosty, or cold 
weather prevails. "Whilst the trees are untied, they 
should be carefully washed with the composition recom¬ 
mended above for Figs, which should be applied in a 
milk-warm state, with a painters’ brush. As soon as 
the composition becomes dry, the trees should be neatly 
and carefully tied to the trellis work. The inside 
borders should then be lightly stirred with a fork, 
merely to open the surface; they should then receive a 
good dressing of horse- droppings, and the outside borders 
may, at the same time, have a good mulching. Those 
who wish to have ripe fruit by the first of May next, 
should commence forcing not later than the middle of 
this month. We are aware that it can be accomplished 
in less time, but at what a sacrifice to the trees ! All 
early forced Peaches should not have less than five 
months allowed, from the commencement of forcing to 
the ripening of the fruit, and they will do much better 
if they have more time given them, as success, in a 
great measure, depends upon the organs of fructification 
being allowed sufficient time to unfold themselves gradu¬ 
ally. The inside borders should receive a thorough good 
watering of liquid manure; they will not then require any 
more until the leaves begin to develope. If the weather 
be mild, fires will not be required for a few days. The 
night temperature for the first month should not exceed 
forty degrees, the trees should be syringed two or three 
times a day, and a moist atmosphere should also be 
maintained. 
Strawberries. —If our previous directions have been 
attended to, these will now he good plants, with well 
formed, strong crowns, and able to do good work next 
season. As they will have done growing, they should 
be put into winter quarters, placing a sufficient number 
for the first batch of forcing plants, into a cold frame, 
pit, vinery, or peach-house. The following, which is 
my plan of storing, I have always found to answer 
admirably well—In the first place, I mark out with a 
line, a piece of ground, ten yards long by thirty inches 
broad, and then lay a row of pots down each side, the 
plants outwards, and the bottoms of the pots towards 
each other; the space between the two rows of pots is 
then filled with old tan, or sand, or coal-ashes ; or, in 
the absence of these, with the garden soil, raising it a 
little above the level of the pots ; I then lay two more 
rows of pots above the other two, keeping them, also, 
at the same time, within the rims of the bottom row; 
the space between the pots is filled as before. I pro¬ 
ceed in this manner until I get six rows of pots on 
each side, it then presents the appearance of a ridge, 
when the top is thatched, so as to throw the water 
entirely off the plants ; by this means the roots are 
kept as healthy as possible. In frosty weather, hurdles 
are placed in front of the plants, over which litter 
is thrown. I generally choose a place as much out 
sight as possible, in order that the litter and covering 
may not be much seen. M. S. 
Cucumber House. —If previous directions have been 
attended to, the plants will now be in a forward state; 
they must be kept thin of wood, by removing the alter¬ 
nate laterals, so that they enjoy every ray of light in 
every part of the house. If there is any appearance of 
mildew, the bottom heat must be examined, and by 
keeping it at 85 degrees, and the atmosphere at 70 by 
day, the mildew will soon disappear. See that every 
part of the house is carefully sprinkled with tepid water, 
once or twice every day, so long as the external atmo¬ 
sphere continues so dry. "Where the plants are in a 
forward bearing state they must be judiciously managed, 
so as not to overcrop them, as they are liable, under 
such circumstances, to get into a sickly state. Pay time¬ 
ly attention to fumigating with tobacco, on the first ap¬ 
pearance of green-fly; and if thrip attacks them, apply 
the syringe freely to the under side of the foliage. Give 
air freely in the early part of the day, and shut up early 
in the afternoon. 
Pang Bed .—In this department there can be more 
valuable labour bestowed in this month than is gene¬ 
rally imagined," by collecting every particle of manure, 
dry or wet, and mixing it in large heaps. It will be 
found profitable in dull dark mornings to employ some 
of the labourers to turn over the dung, and well mix it 
together, by these means there will not be any harbour 
for woodlice or other vermin, which annoy gardeners so 
much.* If the materials are kept in order as above, there 
will not be any need of the many traps for slugs, wood- 
lice, &c., that are recommended by experienced garden¬ 
ers ; and the frame ground will present a more agreeable 
aspect than is generally the case. Where plants are 
already up they must be kept close to the glass, and the 
glass quite clean. The linings must be kept well topped 
up, and if the heat is strong, air must be admitted by 
night, to prevent them drawing up. W. T. 
FRUIT-GARDEN.—OUT-DOOR DEPART¬ 
MENT. 
Peach , Nectarine , and Apricot. —Commence pruning 
immediately the leaves are fallen from the trees. It is 
a very general practice to prune these trees in the spring. 
The reasons given for so doing are various ; some gar¬ 
deners assert that it is that the blossom buds may be 
distinguished from the wood buds; but as they may 
now be clearly detected by an observant eye, this reason 
will not hold good. Others state that the young shoots 
would die back if pruned before winter ; but this will 
not take place if the trees are in good health. Another 
objection to autumn pruning is, that it causes luxuriant 
trees to grow still more luxuriantly; that if they are 
not pruned until late in the spring, when the sap of the 
tree is in action, it tends to weaken it. This is a poor 
reason for spring pruning, even if it had a partial effect 
in checking over luxuriance, as root pruning would 
effectually remedy that. There appears to be but one 
valid reason for spring pruning—it delays the expansion 
of the flowers ; but this may be prevented by covering 
the trees during the warm sunny days of March. As 
the autumn is undoubtedly the best time for pruning 
decidious trees and shrubs, I do not see that these trees 
should be an exception. Finish planting as early as 
possible. Fasten the branches loosely to the wall so as 
to allow the tree to sink with the soil. 
Apples and Pears .—Get in the late sorts of fruit 
immediately. Examine that in the fruit room, and 
separate the best from the inferior, at the same time 
picking out every fruit that is in the least decayed. 
Prune those against walls, and also espaliers; the dwarf 
and standard trees in the orchard may be pruned when 
favourable opportunities occur. Continue to plant 
