243 
THE GARDENERS’ AND NATURALISTS’ CALENDAR FOR DECEMBER. 
dew which might otherwise occasion much mischief be¬ 
fore they were perceived. 
It is a good plan to give the plants of the various 
species of Leschenaultias, Pimeleas, Polygalas, Boro- 
nias, and perhaps some others, a good fumigating in this 
month, for, although the Leschenaultias may appear 
quite clear to the naked eye, perhaps after the fumiga¬ 
tion they will be found to have been covered with small 
green fly. Plants of Gardoquia Hookerii should now be 
growing freely in a cool part of the stove. Shift, stop, 
and tie them out as they require it, in order to make 
nice bushy plants for flowering next summer. Towards 
the end of the month the varieties of Ivalosanthes may 
be shifted ; this is best done now, for, if left till spring, 
it may he unfavourable to a good head of bloom. 
A few of the blew Holland plants, such as the early 
flowering Dillwynias, Hoveas, Boronias, &c., may be 
had in hloom a month or two before their natural time 
by introducing them into a very moderate heat; but hear 
in mind that they will not stand hard forcing. Make a 
little fire occasionally to dry up damp, and attend to 
other matters as in last month. 
Azalea-s .—Towards the end of the month some of 
the new kinds that are to be made the most of in the 
ensuing year should he shifted and placed in heat, where 
they will soon begin to grow freely. If an early dis¬ 
play of bloom is wanted, introduce into heat, in suc¬ 
cession, some of the forwardest plants. Nothing adds so 
much to the beauty of the conservatory as a few good 
specimens of Azalea. The sorts best adapted for forcing 
are those having the habit of the old Indica alba. The 
other varieties, such as Lateritia and its hybrids, are 
best for late flowering. 
Camellias .—Here every thing should be in perfect 
order, and the whole collection rapidly advancing into 
hloom. See that the opening buds are not injured by 
exposure to cold currents of air, but keep the house 
moderately warm without employing much fire heat. 
J. F. 
Heathery.— The specimen plants are now in a com¬ 
paratively dormant state, and require little attention 
beyond that of looking sharply out for mildew, and 
taking care that they do not suffer from the want of, 
or from receiving too much water. Avoid fires as long 
as you can, except occasionally in dull weather, in the 
day time, to expel damp; but, if you can avoid it, do 
not allow your plants to become frozen. If not done 
before, tie and train any plants which require it, recol¬ 
lecting former directions that stakes are only necessary 
evils, and that the fewer you use the better your plants 
will look. 
Heath Pit .—Attend to young stock, observing nearly 
the same general rules as for specimen plants. Cover 
securely in severe weather, but ventilate freely when 
the weather permits. W. P. A. 
GREENHOUSE SOFT-WOODED PLANTS. 
water freely. Drain with broken potsherds, and char¬ 
coal. Such plants as are required for early forcing 
may now he kept a little closer, which will cause them 
to throw up their flowers. The best kinds for the first 
flowering are Admiral Napier (red), Al ba, multiflora 
(white), Laneii (flesh colour), Gem of the Scarlets (a 
brilliant scarlet with white centre). For a second crop, 
General 'Washington (red), Surpass Napier (red), and 
Mrs. Johnson (flesh colour). With a moderate tempe¬ 
rature, these will be found to answer well for the two 
first crops. Great care must be taken in watering, for 
on this the health of the plants will greatly depend. 
They should he allowed to get quite dry before water¬ 
ing at this season of the year. Light a fire occasionallv 
in the middle of the day, when the sashes are open, to 
dry out the damp. The Fancy varieties being more 
tender than the foregoing, will not require so much air. 
Look very carefully into the plants to see that there are 
no decaying leaves or shoots, for if this is not attended 
to they are very liable to damp off and loose their 
branches. In potting these always keep the collar of 
the plants above the surface of the soil, and drain veiy 
freely; thin frequently, and keep the flower-buds pulled 
out, to throw the strength into the wood. Fumigate 
occasionally to prevent the green fly. 
Calceolarias .—Look very carefully to these, and keep 
them clear of all small leaves and shoots. Peg down 
the shoots of the herbaceous varieties, that they may 
root up the stem, which will give them strength. If 
well rooted, pot into larger pots such as require it. A 
good rich compost is indispensable, with a good portion 
of silver sand. Drain thoroughly, and keep close for a 
few days. Fumigate occasionally, to prevent the green 
fly, as they seldom rally if these are allowed to gain 
ground. A little warmth is necessary for the more 
tender kinds. Give plenty of air every favourable 
opportunity. Water sparingly, and see that they are in 
actual want before you apply it. Stirling the surface 
now and then is necessary, to keep the soil open. If 
large enough, prick off such seedlings as were sown last 
month for late summer and autumn flowering. 
Cinerarias. —Continue to give larger pots to such as 
are required for specimen plants, and pick out the hearts 
of some of the strongest for late flowering. Look care¬ 
fully for mildew, and dust with flowers of sulphur any 
plant that may be affected with it. Peg them down as 
they get long enough, and thin out all the small leaves 
to throw the whole of the sap into the leading shoots. 
Give all the air possible in fine weather, and do not 
expose them to a damp atmosphere, which will cause 
the mildew. 
Routine. —Turn heaps of soil and manure, and lay 
them up in ridges so that the frost and air may act on 
them. If not already done, house some for winter use. 
Take every opportunity hi bad weather to wash pots; 
for much of success depends on clean and dry pots when 
the plants are put into them.. H. 1C 
Pelargoniums ,—A critical season has now arrived 
for the management of these plants; every care must he 
taken to remove all decaying and superfluous leaves and 
shoots. Tie out as thin as possible, so as to leave the 
middle of the plants open to admit the air and light. 
Give all the air possible every favourable opportunity, 
taking care to avoid cold draughts as much as possible, 
which are very injurious to the plants, particularly those 
which are in a free state of growth. Keep them at all 
times near the glass, to prevent their chawing. Stir the 
surface occasionally to keep the soil open, and top-dress 
such as require it. Where large specimen plants are 
required, some may yet be shafted into larger pots, 
using for this purpose a good rich compost, prepared 
of good turfy loam, with some well decomposed cow 
and horse-dung ; mix a liberal portion of sand, which 
is necessary at this season of the year to carry off the 
FLOWER-GARDEN.—OUT-DOOR DEPART¬ 
MENT. 
We should bear in mind that flower-gardening as prac¬ 
tised in the present day by intelligent gardeners, is not 
the growth of a year or two, but the result of many 
years of observation and study, and also that it is far 
from perfect, notwithstanding all the additions which 
have been made to it of late, in the improvement of the 
forms of beds and colours of flowers, as well as other 
contrivances, which the improved skill of the gardener 
has brought into general use. This is, as it should be, 
to meet the onward course of things. The system of 
massing flowers took its rise at a time when all was 
confusion in flower-gardens, and, consequently, no 
settled principle was seen anywhere in the arrange¬ 
ment ; but it is not so now, for year by year the flower- 
