SPRING PRUNING OF THE PEACH AND NECTARINE 
253 
viated, but not altered the sense, as this article is not intended to be a treatise on pruning and training. 
Again, a periodical writer observes, on the July treatment of stone-fruit trees:—“ Where the young 
shoots seem likely to grow very strong, they should be stopped as soon as they have made from four to 
six leaves, and from the laterals produced one or more may be selected, which will generally form good 
bearing shoots of moderate strength; but if the wood they produce is still too strong, stop again, and 
continue the practice so long as the tree persists in throwing out strong growing shoots.” 
Willing as I am to admit the correctness of these remarks, they cannot be considered otherwise 
than as offering palliatives for symptoms , and not an explanation of the causes which produce irregular 
developements. The skilful trainer of the Peach, with the new to obtain a moderate, but an equally 
distributed quantity of fruit, aims at having his trees “green throughout .” He therefore, at the first 
planting of a maiden tree, has an especial eye upon its roots; then, after strict examination., he at once 
amputates every one root that manifestly taps, or tends to tap perpendicularly downward; and then 
expands as regularly and horizontally as possible all the other roots; still, however, excepting in some 
degree the few that bear towards the wall. It is in the act of planting that the foundation for perma¬ 
nent fertility must be laid. Now, presuming that the soil is favourable, I believe that a tree should 
be planted shallow at the first; and, therefore, that a sort of pavement must be made of strong slates, 
or flat tiles, truly adjusted, and cemented at the edges, to extend at least thirty inches from the wall, 
and to right and left, and not more than eight or nine inches below the surface level of the border. 
Upon this pavement the roots are to be expanded in radiating order, the finest soil being trickled upon 
and between them, and washed in with pond water, from the rose of a watering-pot. The mechanical 
operations thus carefully performed, the roots must acquire an horizontal direction, which they will 
maintain during several years. Thus commencing at the beginning, a skilful pruner will have the 
figure much at his command. I am well aware that we seldom meet with trees so planted, and also 
that great depth of earth never produces a fine tree. I have seen, in very fine gardens, some trees 
almost destitute of any young shoots at all towards the main stem; others producing strong, rank 
shoots, which never can bear fruit. In my own garden, here, I have been perplexed with the constant 
reproduction of such shoots, all of them, I am persuaded, owing then origin to the depth of soil of my 
garden borders. It is all very well to persist in cutting back fore-shortening, and strictly attending 
to all the other directions alluded to above. Still, I maintain, that so long as the roots tap, and 
wander at then own free will, an irregular protrusion of shoots must be the consequence. T\lien a 
gardener, therefore, witnesses the yearly production of long sappy shoots, with then secondary laterals, 
in trees which he did not plant, the only effectual remedy will be found in a judicious root-pruning at 
the commencement of the saps’ movement, indicated by the earliest swelling of the buds. The ground 
should be carefully moved, and the tapping root, if any, amputated, when some sort of paving might 
be introduced under those roots that appear to incline downward. 
Root-pruning is, however, a delicate and hazardous operation, because it is unfortunately tine that 
we are ignorant whether the whole system of roots acts generally upon all the branches, or whether 
each of these sets of members performs reciprocally a peculiar and specific office. I have ventured to 
remove a root or two that curved in a downward direction, at the same time cutting out or rigidly 
fore-shortening the lateral secondaries: and thus have obtained, at length, some very good fruit. Here 
it will be appropriate to the object in view, to say, that if regular fertility takes place, it is more than 
probable the tendency to develope gross branches will be much abated. 
As to the question of spring and summer pruning, there can be no doubt that, in May, disbudding , 
according to the directions above cited, should be regularly attended to; but the summer treatment 
must depend upon the then habits of each individual tree. The prevention of over luxuriance must 
depend upon the quality of the ground, and the position of the roots at the time of planting. If, on the 
contrary, trees become poor, and their developments weak and insufficient, the cure must be attempted, 
not by dung or rich dressings, but by a gradual renewal of the soil, first on one side, then on the 
other, so that in three seasons, the old being removed so far as, or farther than, the roots extend, its 
place shall be supplied by an ample quantity of mellow, turfy loam. I witnessed this restorative 
process in the fine garden of Shottesbrook Park, in Berkshire, and its effects were, hi every way, 
satisfactory. 
- 4 - 
3i!i5rri[flnrmts ffniirt 
Horticultural Society. December 3.—As is usual at this season, the meeting was very thinly attended, and 
but very few subjects for exhibition were presented ; still sufficient were there to shew the importance of continu¬ 
ing these meetings, even in the depth of winter, if only to allow Nurserymen and importers of new things the 
means of showing before persons competent to form an opinion of their work. This fact was never more clearly 
o’ 
