POMPONE CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
The varieties figured in the accompanying plate belong to a group of the Chrysanthemums, 
which have originated from a variety called the Chusan Daisy, introduced by Air. Fortune from 
the Celestial Empire in 1846. They are distinguished generally by their dwarf compact habit, 
small foliage, and small daisy-lihe flowers; though these characteristics, that of the size of the 
flowers especially, seem to be less exactly perpetuated in the succeeding generations which 
florists have called into existence. They are dwarf sub-shrubby plants, growing from a foot and 
a half to two and a half feet high, and bearing a profusion of blossoms which in Pompone d‘Or 
are of a brilliant golden yellow, the flowers measuring about an inch and a half in diameter, and 
composed of several rows of ligulate or strap-shaped flat florets, encircling a few tubular florets 
in the centre; the flower is double, but rather flat on the face. La Fiancee is a beautiful 
little pure white variety; the flowers an inch and a quarter in diameter, quite double, the 
florets all strap-shaped, and rather deeply notched at the tips; the flowers resemble a frill 
double large - flowered daisy. Daphnis is larger, measuring an inch and three quarters in 
diameter, but of the same dwarf habit; the colour a deep reddish purple, the flowers rather flat, 
and having a few tubular florets in the centre. Circe is a flower of different character, 
measuring about an inch and a half across, the petals all strap - shaped, numerous, and 
reflexed, the centre being very full and rounded; the colour is a rosy pink, becoming paler 
towards the centre, which is white. These varieties are all of continental origin, and have 
been recently introduced. 
Culture. —The culture of the Pompone Chrysanthemums agrees with that of the larger 
varieties, the treatment of which is detailed in the subjoined communication from Air. Smyth, 
gardener to the Bev. T. Booper, of Wick Hill, Brighton:— 
“ In March I take strong cuttings of each variety, and prepare for them 32-sized pots, half filled 
with broken charcoal, and made up with a compost, of equal parts light loam and leaf mould, mixed with 
sand; about eight cuttings are inserted into each pot. They are placed in a gentle heat, slightly 
sprinkled every morning, and kept shaded from the sun. As soon as they are well rooted, I pot them 
into 60-sized pots, and place them in a warm atmosphere for a few days, until they have filled the pots 
with roots. They are then removed to a cold frame, and are sprinkled every morning with a fine rose 
water-pot, air being given diuing the day. I stop them at the third eye, and allow them to remain in 
the frame until May, when they are shifted into 32-sized pots, prepared with about an inch of broken 
charcoal over the crock at the bottom. The compost I use for this potting consists of two parts light 
loam, to one part of well decomposed dung, sand being freely mixed with the whole. When potted 
and watered they are plunged two feet apart hi beds having coal ashes at the bottom of the trench, to 
prevent worms entering the pots. I keep the plants stopped at every third eye until the middle of 
August. Care must be taken not to let the plants suffer for want of water, for nothing can be more 
injurious to them. I use manure-water three or four times a-week, and sprinkle the plants over head 
night and morning. Early in September the finest plants are selected and repotted into 12-sized 
pots, which are well drained, as before directed, and the same kind of compost is used. These are 
placed under a south wall, and kept well supplied with water. The smaller plants are repotted into 
24-sized pots, and placed under an east wall. By the middle of October the early-flowering plants are 
moved to the greenhouse, or into pits, air being given freely in the day time. Those intended for 
late flowering are left under the east wall as long as the weather will permit. About the second week 
in November, I remove all that are in flower to the conservatory, where a good supply of blossom is 
kept up for two months by these beautiful plants. Under this treatment, I have had, in the present 
year, plants that measured only eighteen inches hi height, and two feet in diameter, with fine foliage 
from top to bottom, and profusely laden with blossoms.” 
From our own experience we should conclude that this class of Chrysanthemums will not 
bear stopping so well as the other kinds. It appears also, that they should be started into growth 
rather early, and be kept growing steadily throughout the summer. In many instances, during the 
past season, we have noticed that plants checked by becoming pot-bound, or by neglect of watering, 
have not developed their blossoms, though buds have formed. We should, therefore, propagate early, 
shift progressively, and secure dwarfness by exposure to light and air, rather than by any system of 
stopping.—M. 
