THE GARDENERS’ AND NATURALISTS’ CALENDAR FOR JANUARY. 
203 
11 
ary is generally so uncertain, as regards severe frost, 
that it will be better to defer planting operations to 
any extent for a time: much, however, may be done in 
the way of preparation for more settled open weather, 
such as draining, trenching, and bringing forward a 
supply of composts ready for immediate use when re¬ 
quired. I have all along advocated both the advantage 
and necessity of early autumn planting, hut as this 
cannot always he done, we must make the best of good 
weather in early spring : it is, therefore, doubly neces¬ 
sary that we should make what preparation we can 
this month, so that no time may be lost when the 
weather serves. In those parts where the planting is 
completed, there is much that may be done in the way 
of levelling and making the necessary preparations for 
turfing over such spaces as require it, also the removal 
of all unsightly refuse, the remains of former planting, 
or the prunings of trees. Laying down turf should be 
deferred until settled open weather, as there is always 
extra trouble, and frequently much loss of turf in¬ 
curred, when this is prosecuted in frosty weather. 
Seasonable opportunities must be taken advantage of 
to cart in a good stock of soils and composts, and these 
will be much benefited by frequent turnings and ex¬ 
posing fresh surfaces to the atmospherical influences. 
Shrubbery .—The foregoing remarks, as regards pre¬ 
paration for future planting, will apply with equal 
force here. Let a liberal top-dressing be applied to 
established shrubberies, and as dry weather occurs the 
necessary process of forking up must be followed up at 
every opportunity. In well-established thick shrub¬ 
beries this process is not absolutely necessary, but in 
those of recent formation, where the foliage has not 
covered the soil, or near the borders, where more neat¬ 
ness is required in consequence of its being brought in 
more immediate contact with the eye, it is not only 
necessary but also advantageous for the plants them¬ 
selves, because it acts as a root-priming operation, and 
tends to ensure a compact habit of growth, and a greater 
degree of inflorescence. 
The following will complete my short list of de¬ 
sirable shrubs for small gardens :— 
Weigela rosea. 
Euonymus japonicus 
Rhamnus latifolius. 
Halesia tetraptera. 
Rhus cotinus. 
Philadelphus Gordonianus 
-floribundus. 
- elegans. 
Arbutus ovata. 
Pemettya angustifolia, 
-mucronata. 
Cotoneastermicrophylla. 
- rotundifolia. 
Calycanthus proecox. 
Hydrangea quercifolia. 
Viburnum japonica. 
Ilex latifolia. 
-ciliata. 
Gaultheria Shallon. 
Leycesteria formosa. 
Cistus ladaniferus. 
——- roseus. 
- purpureus. 
•- formosus. 
- corbariensis. 
- marginatus. 
-candidissimus. 
Escallonia rubra. 
Illicium floridanum. 
Duvaua latifolia. 
Benthamia fragifera. 
Arbutus Unedo. 
- Andrachne. 
Deutzia corymbosa. 
Phillyrea angustifolia. 
- media. 
- oleaefolia. 
Fabiana imbricata. 
The above are all very suitable for planting in 
conspicuous situations along the borders ; the back¬ 
ground may be filled with commoner sorts, as common 
and Portugal laurels. Some of the b lautiful pink and 
crimson thorns .should be interim 'ce amongst them. 
Lists of this kind might be greatly extended, but I have 
only aimed at noticing a few, which being both desir¬ 
able and easily procured, may be safely selected by small 
proprietors who only require a few good and interest¬ 
ing things. John Cox, Redleaf. 
FRUIT-GARDEN.—IN-DOOR DEPART¬ 
MENT. 
Finery .— When fruiting pines are sweUing, their 
fruit maintain a tolerably moist atmosphere ; but act 
cautiously with any that are in bloom, as moisture upon 
the organs of fructification will at this season be found 
exceedingly inimical. Some of the more forward of 
the spring fruiters wiR now be showing fruit; and 
therefore, towards the end of the month, the bottom 
heat must be slightly increased, and a little extra mois¬ 
ture given to the roots, to make the plants throw up 
strong and healthy. If the bottom heat is supplied by 
tan, fresh material must be placed between the pots, 
taking care to stir the old tan deeply with a fork or 
pointed stick before the new is placed upon it. Increase 
the heat a few degrees towards the end of the month. 
Where fruiting pines are planted out, the bottom heat 
must be slightly increased as before directed, either by 
increased supplies of dung to the linings, or by tanks. 
Succession Fit .—These will still be comparatively in 
a dormant state, but if the weather is favourable at the 
end of the month the strong plants intended for autumn 
fruiting, may, if the pots are full of roots, receive a 
shift, and be placed in a pit by themselves, so as to 
induce an early and vigorous growth, for upon this 
much of the success of producing fine fruit in the 
autumn depends ; the bottom heat, however, until the 
plants get into growth, should not exceed 7o° at the 
bottom of the pot, and a night temperature of 50° wiR 
be ample for the present, allowing the pit to rise a few 
degrees in the day time, or by sim heat. The young 
stock wiR require a little water occasionaRy, especially 
in pits heated by fire heat. Prepare soRs, tan, &c., for 
a general shifting next month. 
Vinery .—The Vines in the early house wiU now be 
in bloom, and therefore the utmost caution must be 
observed to maintain a steady temperature and genial 
atmosphere. Do not on any account permit the heat 
to faR below 60° diming the night, but, on clear bright 
days, 70° should be the minimum of fire heat, taking 
care to introduce a stream of warmed afr- as long as pos¬ 
sible. Look to the external borders, see that there is 
no declension of heat, and add, if requisite, fresh heat¬ 
ing materials. Late houses must be managed according 
to previous directions, and a third or fourth house, if 
necessary for the supply, must be started, observing to 
commence with a low temperature and to increase 
graduaRy, as great haste is generaRy bad speed, more 
especiaRy in early forcing. 
Vines in Fots .—Where the fruit is set, thin, and, as 
soon as it is large enough, push the plants along, for, as 
the roots here are imder proper control, no fear need be 
entertained of the plants sustaining injury, that is, if 
properly treated. Introduce a few fresh plants the 
beginning and end of the month, observing the rules 
previously laid down as to temperature, &c. The 
plants sweRing fruit may be assisted occasionaRy in 
bright weather with a little weak manure water. 
Routine .—Prepare dung, leaves, tan, <fcc., to form 
hotbeds to start smaR succession Pines—also for strik¬ 
ing Vines and other purposes. Get soils, pots, crocks, 
&c., in readiness for a general potting next month. 
John Spencer, Bowood Park. 
Figs .—The early house may now be set to work. 
'Where there are plants in pots and tubs, it is preferable 
to start these first. They should aR have a good water¬ 
ing. Syringe two or three times a day, and maintain a 
moist atmosphere. Begin with a night temperature of 
45°, and a day one of 55° ; and in the course of a fort¬ 
night or three weeks, increase the temperature graduaRy 
so as to give an advance of 8° or 10°. On fine days give a 
little air: they wiR not require much at the present stage. 
Feaclies .—The artificial heat in the early house may 
be increased 5° or 6° in the day, but not quite so much 
at night. A steady temperature of 50° should be aimed 
at diuing the time the peaches are in flower; it should 
neither rise nor faR many degrees beyond this. By keep¬ 
ing up a night temperature of this kind vhRe the trees are 
O 
