THE FLORIST. 
95 
least two-thirds manure, and the other third of sand and peat earth, 
well mixed, and turned fully two months before planting, and placed 
quite eighteen inches deep in the bed. The great cause of failure 
in England is, that they are grown in too poor a compost, which 
causes them to degenerate, just as any animal or human being will 
do when, after being fed upon a rich and nourishing diet, he is 
placed upon one of the poorest description. Hyacinths plunged in 
deep and narrow pots might be taken up to deck any part of the 
garden; but one thing must be observed, that, requiring more mois¬ 
ture than most bulbs, the bed should not be much higher than the 
walks. 
The Tulip, like the Hyacinth, requires less attention, after being 
planted, than any other florists’ flow r er. In the middle or latter end 
of October—not November, as practised in the South—they should 
be removed from the boxes and planted. I have now followed the 
plan recommended for three years, and I find that I get better roots, 
and stronger as well as larger blooms, by this means ; and it is now 
generally practised. The 18th of October should be the earliest 
period of planting, and the bulbs, instead of coming up early, are 
generally later, as they make strong roots, and consequently are 
better able to form and support a large flower without exhausting 
the bulb. Tulips do not require much attention until February or 
March, when they will want protection from hail and thunder-storms 
until out of bloom in June. There are some who recommend cover¬ 
ing during the winter, but this I never practise myself, and I once 
saw a collection nearly spoiled by so doing. 
The Pink and Carnation occupy more time and attention than 
other varieties of florists’ flowers, though, if regularly attended to, 
they will amply repay the trouble. These, strictly speaking, are 
ladies’ flowers ; and the fair sex are great admirers of the Picotee. 
Carnations require potting or bedding-out the latter end of March or 
beginning of April, and will not require much attention until May, 
when they will need sticking and tying up, as well as plentiful 
watering in dry weather. The soil will want stirring up with a 
small three-pronged garden-fork, about three inches wide, and in a 
handle. The side buds will require taking off before they attain 
any great size, that the crowm bud may be able to produce a large 
flower. This is essentially necessary where large flowers are wanted. 
As soon as it can be ascertained whether they are in colour, the 
operation of layering must commence. After the layers are well 
rooted, they must be planted in small pots, a pair in each, and 
placed in a cold frame embedded in sand, until the period arrives for 
planting out, wdien they can be put into their situation without dis¬ 
turbing or injuring the roots. 
Pinks are piped, that is, cut at a joint, and put under an air-tight 
glass until they strike root, when air is gradually given until the 
glass is finally removed, and the plants pricked out in a bed prepared 
for them. 
I have not much knowledge as to the treatment of Ranunculuses, 
which are very successfully grown in some parts of England and 
