288 
TIIE FLORIST, 
on the appearance of frosty weather ; but these are mere uncertain 
make-shifts. Look over the young stock, and shift all small 
plants requiring it into larger sizes; also, top-dress all large 
plants that do not need repotting, with some well-rotted dung 
and loam. J. Dobson. 
Worton Cottage, Isleworth. 
Tulips. —Examine the bulbs, and, if not previously done, let them 
now be arranged for planting, making the alterations and improve¬ 
ments noted down in the Tulip-book during blooming-time : this 
we do immediately the bulbs are taken up, while the changes 
intended to be made are fresh on the mind ; we also procure at once 
any new varieties we may wish for, and then re-arrange them. 
The bed should now be got ready for planting. If the soil has 
only been in use one year, and the bulbs did well in it, there is 
no advantage to be derived in changing it, for they will do well 
in the same soil (if it be good) for two or three successive years ; 
all that is required is, to remove about three inches from the sur¬ 
face, laying it in a ridge by the sides of the bed; then fork over 
the mould left in the bed, laying that also in a high ridge for 
a week or ten days. If the soil require changing, it need not be 
all removed. We have this day (September 15th) taken about 
ten inches off the top, then put about six inches of two wear old 
rotted turf and loam and road-grit, well mixed together (three- 
fourths loam and one-fourth grit), on the soil left in the bed, 
forked it well over two or three times, turning some of that left 
with the mould just added, so as to mix it well, and laid it up in 
a high ridge; two or three days before planting, it will be raked 
down, laying it two inches higher in the middle than the sides. 
In planting, place a small quantity of river-sand on the spot the 
bulb is to occupy, and put as much sand upon the bulb itself as 
will just cover it; then carefully put the mould on the bed, 
covering the bulbs four inches and a half deep in the centre, and 
three inches the outsides ; protect the bed at once, by placing 
small-sized iron hoops over it, rising about six inches from the 
surface, and run some small string diagonally from each hoop. 
About the second or third week in October is the best time for 
planting in general, though, on account of the lateness of our 
situation, we never plant later than the first, if the weather will 
allow it to be done. The best plan is to begin planting whenever 
the bulbs push forth their green spear, and the fibres swell at the 
bottom of the root (some of the early blooming varieties are 
already doing so with us), for the longer they are kept out of the 
ground when this is the case the greater injury they will sustain. 
We have never used the nostrums some have recommended, but 
have strictly adhered to the simple practice described as above; 
and perhaps we may be allowed to say, the blooms we have 
frequently exhibited are the best evidences of the utility of our 
method of cultivation. J. Hunt. 
High Wycombe. 
Levev, Robson, and Franklyn, Great New Street, Fetter Lane. 
