46 
A small “emerald” (Synchlora frondaria, Gn.) was taken on our 
return to the station, where we arrived after passing several encamp¬ 
ments of Government troops, many of whom we had also met when 
crossing the ford, for the country had been in revolt, and the abutments 
of two bridges to the north of Tacuarembo, which we had visited the 
previous day, had been blown out with dynamite, and had only been 
repaired temporarily. These “ troops ” cannot be said to have been 
impressive as a military force, having been freshly recruited from the 
“ camp,” and the only uniform many of them were wearing, consisted 
of the number of their division in their caps, although everyone had a 
red necktie, as we were in the country of “ Colorados ” (reds), or 
party in power, the other side, lately in rebellion, being called the 
“ Blancos.” Large troops of horses were being brought in to clear 
the district of mounts, and herds of hundreds of cattle for food, for, as 
each man will only eat the choicest parts, a good number of beasts is 
required to feed even a small army. The soldiers, some armed with 
rifles, and others with lances, looked picturesque, dirty, with unkempt 
hair, slouch hats of felt, ragged “ ponchos ” (blankets with a hole in 
the middle to thrust the head through), “bombaches” (wide breeches), 
and long boots or “ alpargatas” (hemp soled shoes); all were mounted, 
and the men are said to fight better with the knife than with the rifle. 
Many, in common with the general population of the north of the 
Uruguayan Republic, were very dark, and differences of tint there 
imply subtle social distinctions. A man whom we took with us to dig 
tree ferns, and who was himself “ color de cafe,” seemed to enjoy as an 
excellent joke a reference made by the driver of the coach (a white, 
though burnt by the sun), comparing a small naked black sitting on a 
rail, to one of the horses he was driving called “ Negro.” 
Southwards from Tacuarembo the railway passes through the 
“ Valle Eden,” the line following the banks of a stream running 
through a narrow valley, with the sides precipitous in places, many of 
the mountains enclosing this glen, however, being regular and rounded 
in outline, and sloped right to their summits (roughly guessing two to 
three thousand feet above the sea) with vegetation and trees. 
The day after our return to Montevideo, we read in one of the 
afternoon papers the “ Impresiones deViage” (Impressions of Voyage) 
of a travelling correspondent, who must have accompanied us in the 
train from Durazno to Las Tranqueras. He speaks of the “ thousand 
rumours ” that were current in Tacuarembo, where no one believed 
that the peace that had been made with the Revolutionists by the 
Government, was stable, and then continues :— 
“ Whilst we were listening to these rumours, somewhat alarmed at 
them, we contemplated an English naturalist, patiently pursuing 
butterflies with a net of guaze. The contrast was really curious.” 
%t, as we were to ride in the train 45 miles beyond, and to return 
over tWiine in a trolley, the greater part of the run being in the dark 
pie^^pi'^e did not attach quite so much importance to the whispers 
of further risings, and of bands approaching under the lead of 
“ Blanco ” chiefs, as the correspondent did. However, we covered the 
n three hours, the men were told off to watch the bridges and 
topper^til the traffic was stopped at 8 o’clock, and we retired for the 
^ mghfc,lo Qur coach. 
rt. Li though, that this is rather a long and discursive tale to 
X^^^e^f^fcrtnind a brief half-hour of sunshine, isn’t it ? 
