290 
THE KILIMA-NJAB 0 EXPEDITION. 
but it offers the shortest cut to the magnificent un¬ 
inhabited regions lying all round the mountain between 
6000 feet and 11,000 feet, which present the most 
favourable conditions for European settlements. In 
all other parts of the lower slopes of Kilima-njaro you 
meet with populous and arrogant little states, which 
at any rate need much subsidizing before they consent 
to your passage through their territories; whereas in 
Rombo the population is sparse, and the natives are 
poor savages unarmed with anything more formidable 
than ill-made spears, and unable to seriously oppose 
the march of a small and resolute force. A little 
kindness would soon win them over, especially if they 
were protected against the raids of slave-hunters. 
All through this somewhat trying day we had never 
paused in our descent to eat or drink. We were 
agreed that no halt would be satisfactory till we 
reached the banks of the River Lumi— {e our river,” as 
we affectionately called it—and camped by its running 
waters. As we slowly wound our way over stony 
hillocks and grassy downs, followed by the waspish 
Wa-rombo, our gaze concentrated itself on the distant 
line of dark green forest which curved across the 
yellow plain like a narrow ribbon, ending in the great 
blot of verdure which marked the site of Taveita. 
On our way we had an interesting view of Gala, a 
little lake filling up one of the minor craters on the 
mountain-side. 
About seven in the evening we reached the banks 
of the Lumi only to find, to our cruel disappointment, 
it was absolutely devoid of water. In dumb despair 
we gazed on its grey boulders and parched sand. 
Then a little reflection convinced me that we were 
needlessly despondent. I had, in my previous rambles, 
