306 
THE KILIMA NJARO EXPEDITION. 
a slaughtered ox, and if you are unprepared to en¬ 
counter these gentry take warning and turn away. 
The next day three hours’ walking over a very heavy 
black soil—washed down by the rains from the hills 
—brought us to Kisiwani, a-dry river-bed at the foot 
of the Pare hills. Here I was so utterly exhausted 
and faint with the exertions and anxieties of the last 
few days, following my touch of fever, that I had to 
spend half the day in complete repose in order to 
recruit my strength. It was a charming spot in which 
to do so. Magnificent forest trees towered high into 
the air; but higher still, and cutting off half the 
heavens, as it were, rose the noble Pare mountains. 
A soothing atmosphere of peace pervaded our camp. 
Hither came no Masai, for they wisely kept aloof 
from the indignant attacks of the Pare mountaineers, 
who had more than once given these freebooters a 
sound thrashing. Nevertheless to honest men like us 
they were kind and friendly. They brought us 
gourds full of ice-cold water from their mountain 
streams, and ripe bananas, and funny little black 
sheep. Their chief sent me a present and an invitation 
to come and see him in his mountain home. I would 
have gladly done so, but I felt no confidence in my 
walking powers, and I dreaded to bring on another 
attack of fever by over-exertion. So I sent him several 
choice gifts and complimentary messages, and said 
when I next came that way I would remember his 
kindness to a passing stranger. 
The Wa-pare, from what I have seen of them, seem 
a very amiable people, like the Wa-taveita. I take a 
great interest in their country, because I regard it as 
one of the links of healthy land uniting Kilima-njaro 
—the future sanatorium of Eastern Africa—with the 
