316 
THE KILIMA-NJAB O EXPEDITION. 
beach of Pangani without a catastrophe. It was a 
pitch-dark night when I landed on this unfamiliar 
shore, and I felt more strange and friendless than I 
had ever done in the wilderness. Where should I 
find a decent shelter for the night in this dirty Arab 
town ? As I wandered up into the bazaar I sought in 
vain for the face of some one to assist me. At length 
I entered a better street and paused before the stately 
dwelling of a rich Hindu. I entered the hall and 
inquired for the master. A portly, yellow-faced man, 
in richly embroidered garments, came forward. ££ Can 
you tell me,” I asked him, ££ where I can obtain house- 
room for the night ? I have just come from the 
interior. 55 ££ I suppose you had better go to the 
Mission, 55 he said curtly, and turned away. “What 
Mission ? 55 I inquired of my men. I did not know 
there was an English Mission in Pangani. I knew 
the Universities 5 Mission had stations on other parts 
of the coast and in Usambara, but I had never heard 
of one in Pangani. As a matter of fact they really 
only possessed a house there as a pied d terre used in 
passing to and fro between Usambara and Zanzibar. 
I went back into the dark, dirty street, and clutched 
the first boy I saw. ££ How, 55 I said, ££ I will give you 
a rupee if you will lead me to the English Mission. 55 
££ Orright, 55 he replied delightedly in broken English, 
££ cum ’long ! 55 A few turns and twists in the laby¬ 
rinth of sordid streets brought us to a more open 
space, and we were suddenly conducted into the court¬ 
yard of a large house. Here our guide pulled a loud, 
clanging bell, screamed out something in Swahili, and 
left us. Immediately a pleasant-looking man and 
woman came out of a side door opening on to the 
yard, and giving a respectful salutation, invited us 
