GONJA TO LONDON\ 
317 
to ascend a broad ladder wkicli led to a terrace and 
some upper apartments. The woman carried a lamp, 
and the man a bunch of keys. Without another word 
the man opened the door of a spacious, well-lit room, 
and the woman placed the lamp on the table within. 
“What shall I get you?” she asked. “Will you 
have some chai (tea) ? ” I said gratefully 1 would, 
and secretly wondered all the time where were the 
white occupants of the house. Why were they not 
made aware of my coming ? Presently the woman 
returned, and began to make the bed. Then she 
pointed to a large chest, and said, “You must open 
that; only white men know how.” I looked at the 
box, and saw a word in Greek letters printed on it. 
It was a letter lock, and I comprehended the woman’s 
meaning. The key-word was printed in Greek, so that 
the mission servants, I suppose, who could read 
English, should not understand the mode of opening 
the lock, and make too free with the contents of the 
chest, which, on opening, I ascertained to be all the 
necessaries for the table—cruets, knives, forks, cloths, 
napkins, glasses, and plates. I opened another box, 
and found therein well-chosen books, reviews, and 
newspapers, food for the mind. And yet no host to 
greet me ! Really, this was like some fairy tale, where 
you enter an enchanted castle whose owner has been 
turned into a cat, or a monkey, or a marble statue, and 
find no responsible master to bid you welcome, but 
yet a mute hospitality on every hand, and all your 
wants forestalled and provided for. 
“ Where are the Wa-zungu (white men) who live in 
this house ? ” I asked the housekeeper as she brought 
my supper. “They left in the steamer two days 
ago.” “ Did you expect me?” I continued. “No.” 
