318 
THE KILIMA NJARO EXPEDITION 
<e Then perhaps I am taking someone else’s room.” 
“ No,” she said, “ there are other chambers if others 
come, and all white men who come to Pangani lodge 
here.” 
In the best sense of the word the Universities’ 
Mission keeps open house at Pangani. I did not need 
much pressing to make this residence my headquarters 
during my short stay in the town. 
The proud Hindu whom I had met on first landing 
cashed my note of hand lor a large amount of rupees, 
and I w^as thus enabled to pay off my caravan men at 
Pangani. They nearly all of them received presents 
on account of their good conduct and fidelity. It was 
with some display of feeling on both sides that I parted 
with my Zanzibari servitors, especially with those who 
had borne all the anxieties and dangers of our stay in 
Gaga, and we could only console ourselves by sup¬ 
posing that our journeyings and companionship would 
soon be renewed. Indeed I trusted to be back in 
Pangani in another fortnight, ready to return to 
Kilima-njaro. 
Hiring a dirty, evil-smelling Arab dau (all were dirty 
and evil-smelling, so I had little choice, except as to 
the particular kind of dirt and variety of odour), I set 
out with a few followers and my luggage for Zanzibar. 
The vessel was so leaky and old, that I am sure we 
should have gone to the bottom in the least bit of a 
gale. Fortunately the sea was like oil, or glass, or a 
millpond, or whatever simile best produces to your 
imagination absolute unruffled stillness. Yet this 
safe extreme of calm had its disadvantages. In vain 
our Swahili captain whistled, and cried “ Njoo Kaz- 
kazi! ” (Come, north wind!); not a breeze would fill our 
drooping sail. The men rowed with long oars, and I 
