THE OX. 
39 
THE DAIRY. 
which is most conveniently derived from the gastric juice contained in the abomasum, or fourth stomach, of a sucking calf. 
When the animal is just killed, this organ, with the coagulated milk and chyme which it contains, is taken out to be preserved by 
salting and drying in the manner of bacon. When required for use, it is cut into small pieces, and macerated in water for a few 
days, and the liquor, which is Runnet, is preserved in bottles. Prepared stomachs of the calf form the subject of commerce. They 
are imported from Ireland under the name of Yells; but every dairyman should prepare them for himself, as in this way only he 
can be assured of the strength and goodness of his runnet. 
When a cheese is to be formed, the course of proceeding is determined by the quantity of milk at the command of the dairy¬ 
man. If there is a sufficient number of Cows to make one or more cheeses at each milking, then the milk, as it is brought from the 
Cows, is strained through a hair-sieve into a tub or vat, and while it is yet warm the runnet is added; and if it shall have been 
too much cooled after milking, it is raised to the required temperature by the addition of hot water. The quantity of runnet used 
depends upon its strength, and this again on the method by which it has been prepared, so that no precise rule exists for adapting 
the quantity of runnet to that of the milk to be acted upon. It is used in all quantities, from a table-spoonful or two to the third 
part of a pint, the rule of practice being to employ it in such a quantity, as shall just suffice to coagulate the milk in the space of 
not less than an hour. Previous to the addition of the runnet, it is common, in the English dairies, to add some colouring matter, 
in order to give a red tinge to the cheese. The substance commonly employed is arnotto, which is derived from the red pulp cover¬ 
ing the seeds of the shrub JSixa Orellana , and is imported from South America and the West India Islands in the form of red 
balls. It is dissolved in a bowl of milk by rubbing a small piece of it on a smooth stone kept for the purpose, which causes the milk 
to assume a deep red colour; and the milk thus coloured, is added to that to be curdled in the quantity required to give it a deep 
orange tinge. The dye being mixed, the runnet is added, and the whole being stirred, the vat is covered with a thick canvass 
cloth, so as to prevent the milk from cooling : the whole is then left at rest, and the coagulation proceeds to its termination. 
This is the method of proceeding, when there is a sufficient quantity of milk at each milking of the Cows to form one or more 
cheeses ; but when there is not a sufficient quantity of milk for this purpose, or when for any reason the milk of a previous collec¬ 
tion is mixed with the new, then the older milk is to be heated to the required temperature before being mixed with the new. This 
may be done by heating the old milk in a boiler to the temperature of about ninety degrees, or better, by putting the milk in a tin 
or copper can, and placing this in a cauldron of boiling water; or else by heating only such a portion of the milk as, when added 
to the remainder, shall raise it to the temperature sought for. The heated milk and the new being then mixed together, the 
colouring matter and runnet are added, the vat is covered, and the coagulation allowed to proceed. 
The most suitable temperature for the milk to be curdled is found to be about 90°. The quantity of runnet should be so 
adjusted to the liquid, as that the coagulation shall take place in about an hour. If the coagulation take place too quickly, either 
from an excess in the proportion of runnet, or too high a temperature of the milk, the curd produced is hard and tough, and the 
cheese is wanting in delicacy of texture and flavour ; and if, on the other hand, the strength of the runnet, or temperature of the 
liquid, is too small, the curd does not acquire sufficient consistence. 
The curd being formed, the whey is expressed. This is at first done gently, because otherwise, before the curd has acquired 
consistence, a portion of the cream, would be expressed along with the serum. The most approved practice is to cut the curd 
quickly, and in all directions, with a knife. A common table-knife will suffice; but it is better that it be formed of several 
blades at the distance of an inch from one another. On dividing the curd, the whey rapidly exudes and rises to the surface, and 
the curd subsides to the bottom. As soon as this has taken place, the whey is to be rapidly removed. This is done partly by 
pouring it off, and partly by baling it out with wooden bowls, although it might be better done by a syphon. The subdivision of 
the curd with the knife at the same time is continued, and when all the whey that can be separated in this manner is removed, 
the curd is taken out and placed on a large sieve, and permitted to drain. When the whey by these means has been drained off to 
the utmost, the curd is placed on a board or in a perforated vat. It is then minutely comminuted and compressed by the hands, 
and this manipulation is continued so long as any whey can be expressed. 
The curd is then to be subjected to the action of the cheese-press, in order that it may be consolidated, and that all the fur¬ 
ther serous matter may be expressed. To this end it is pressed into the mould, which is a wooden vessel of the size and shape 
of the cheese to be made, formed generally by the turning lath out of a solid block of wood, and furnished with a thick separate top 
of a size sufficient to fit the interior of the mould. A linen cloth to be folded round the cheese is put into the mould, and the com¬ 
minuted curd is heaped into the cloth, which is covered over it, and the whole is put under the press. The curd remains in the press 
for an hour or two; when it is taken out, wrapped in a fresh cloth, and replaced in the press. After this it is taken out every six 
hours, or oftener, the same operations being repeated. In three days or more, according to the degree of previous manipulation, the 
operation will be completed. The pressure on the curd should have been gradually increased from about 60 lb. to 300 lb. or more. 
