228 THE LAST VOYAGE OF THE KARLUK 
men who look after herds of reindeer in the interior 
and come out to the coast at intervals to exchange 
their reindeer meat for seal and walrus meat, and 
for blubber for their oil lamps. Baron Kleist, 
whom I met later on at East Cape, told me that 
he had been in reindeer camps where two men 
owned four thousand reindeer. He had seen these 
men out in the open, under the necessity of look¬ 
ing after their herds constantly day and night for 
thirty-six hours, without shelter of any kind, and 
their faces, he said, were literally burned black from 
the frost and wind. 
Before we went to sleep that night, Mr. Caraieff 
made tea, and as he had sugar and milk for it and 
some Russian bread to eat we had a very pleasant 
supper party. The Chukch who owned the aranga 
had a four-year-old grandson who ate his share of 
decayed walrus meat and drank his full allowance 
of tea with four lumps of sugar for each small cup¬ 
ful. 
My e}^es were affected a good deal by the irrita¬ 
tion of the overheated atmosphere, with its almost 
complete lack of ventilation. I found occasional 
relief by lifting the edge of the curtain and letting 
the cold air play upon my eyes. The temperature 
out-of-doors was about fifty below zero and bit¬ 
terly cold, much more so, Mr. Caraieff said, than 
we should find it nearer East Cape. 
