CHAPTER XXV 
“music hath charms” 
The next morning dawned clear and fine. We 
got away early and had good going, so that by noon 
we reached an aranga not far from Cape Wan- 
karem. We were received kindly here and given 
tea, which was all that the house afforded. I left 
some tea tablets in exchange. 
Proceeding on our way again we reached Cape 
Wankarem at five o’clock in the afternoon; the 
cape is not high land, just a low promontory. We 
found four arangas here. Our usual method when 
we came to a place with more than one aranga was 
to look the whole collection over and go to what 
seemed the most likely one of the lot. Here, 
therefore, we passed one or two which seemed only 
ordinary and stopped before the one which seemed 
the best. An old man came out and made signs 
for us to enter. We did so and as soon as we were in¬ 
side the door an old woman took us in charge. She 
removed our boots and stockings, turned them in¬ 
side out and hung them up to dry over the native 
lamp. Then she brought out her best china and 
we had tea with sugar in it. She had two fine- 
242 
