THROUGH WONDERLAND . 
73 
velocity; but, by taking advantage of the proper times (which the nearness of 
Killisnoo on one side and Sitka on the other makes easy) and a more thorough 
knowledge of the few impediments, the dangers to navigation here are now 
about nil. Once through Peril Straits, we can look out on the Pacific Ocean 
through Salisbury Sound for a few minutes before turning southward through a 
series of short straits and channels “too numerous to mention ; ” and then, 
after twenty to twenty-five miles of sailing, we come to Sitka, the capital of 
the Territory. It is most picturesquely located at the head of Sitka Sound, 
through which, looking in a southwest direction, the Pacific Ocean is plainly 
visible. Looking in this way, its bay seems full of pretty little islets, sprinkled 
all over it, that are almost invisible as seen from the ocean when approaching, 
so densely are they covered with timber, and so exactly like the timbered hills 
of the mainland, against which they are thrown. The steamer, after winding 
its way through a tortuous channel, finally brings to at a commodious wharf, 
with the city before you, which is in strange contrast with the wild, rugged 
scenery through which the tourist has been sailing. To our left, as we pass on 
to the wharf, is the Indian village of the Sitkas, one of the largest among the 
islands of the inland passage. To our front and right stretch the white 
settlements of the town. At the large Indian village, which is near—or, really, 
part of—Sitka, there are estimated to gather fully a thousand Indians in the 
winter time, the summer finding them partially dispersed over a greater area to 
gain their sustenance. These houses are like those described as being near 
Wrangell. In one way they have somewhat patterned after white men, in 
partitioning off the ends and sides of these large rooms into sleeping apart¬ 
ments by canvas and cloth drapery. It is said that the most fiendish cere¬ 
monies and diabolical cruelties were practiced at their “house-warmings,” so to 
speak. Before the white men put a stop to these ceremonies, a slave was killed, 
with the greatest cruelties, under each of the corner uprights; and, as a house 
could not have less than four of these, and sometimes had more, by its irreg¬ 
ularities, one may contemplate the suffering with which a large village like that 
at Sitka has been baptized. 
In the town proper the Greek Church is the most conspicuous and interesting 
object to the tourist, and especially those who have never seen one of this 
religion. It is built in the form of a Greek cross, in plan, and is surmounted by 
an Oriental dome over the centre, which has been painted an emerald green 
color. One wing is used as a chapel, and contains, besides a curious font, 
an exquisite painting of the Virgin and Child, copied from the celebrated pic¬ 
ture at Moscow. All the drapery is of silver, and the halo of gold ; so, of the 
painting itself, nothing is seen but the faces and background. The chancel, 
which is raised above the body of the church, is approached by three broad 
steps leading to four doors, two of which are handsomely carved and richly 
gilded, and contain four oval and two square bas reliefs. Above is a large 
picture of the Last Supper, covered, like that of the Madonna, with silver, as are 
two others, one on each side of the altar. Across the threshold of these doors 
