102 
TRAVELS 
of this pleafure-ground Rood a wooden houfe, covered with turf, 
and inhabited by a family of fixed Laplanders. I wifhed to pay 
them a vifit; one of our guides, however, befought me not to go 
there immediately by myfelf, but to fend him on before me ; be- 
caufe, faid he, the family will perhaps be frightened at the fight 
of a {hanger of fo different an appearance from their own. He 
went into the houfe, but found nobody there : it was completely 
deferted : the family had either gone on a fifhing excurfion, or 
were in the mountains tending their rein-deer. The architects of 
the houfes on thofe coafls, appear to have been of the fame fchool 
with him who built the church of Mafi ; though it might not 
bear quite the fame proportion to that church, which our houfes 
do to cathedrals. I cannot fay that we were very difcreet in our 
vifit: we looked at, and fearched out every thing, even their 
pockets : all was open and expofed ; for there are no locks in Lap- 
land. We found not any article of curiofity, befides a box of 
rofin. This juice iffues from the fir-tree, of which the Laplan¬ 
ders make an ointment for dreffing their w T ounds. We returned 
with regret to our boats, and it was not without pain that w’e 
bade adieu to fo charming a profpeCt, which bore a {hiking 
refcmblance to all that is moft romantic and delightful in the 
natural fcenery of Switzerland. 
There was not a breath of wind, and our boatmen were much 
fatigued w r ith rowing in fo great a heat. In order to give them 
lome refpite, and to gratify our own curiofity, we vifited all the 
Laplanders fettled on this coaft, who generally lived at the dis¬ 
tance 
