PRUNING FRUIT TREES 
7 
several main branches or trunks one of them might be spared with¬ 
out seriously crippling the tree. But the protection may be carried 
still further by keeping the main branches of the vase shaped tree 
free of all small limbs and fruit spurs which are so susceptible to 
attacks of blight. 
Shaping the Newly Planted Tree. — The term low 
headed, is a relative one, but a top may be considered low 
when the first branch is thirty inches from the surface of the 
ground. Some of our successful growers prefer higher heads 
than this, while others start them lower. Our own preference is for 
a trunk about twenty inches in height. But whatever height is de¬ 
termined upon, the tree must be cut back preferably, just after it 
has been planted. Should the tree be supplied with suitable limbs 
at the point where the head is desired three to five of them, properly 
spaced, should be selected to form the frame work of the tree. The 
rest are removed. The Selected branches should then be shortened 
in to a sound bud within a few inches of the main stem. But ordi¬ 
narily the lower branches are pruned off in the nursery so that we 
seldom get a tree from which suitable branches may be selected. In 
this case the entire top should be removed without regard to 
branches, making the cut a foot to eighteen inches above the point 
where the lowest limb is wanted. In doing this it is expected that 
branches will push out below in sufficient numbers so that suitable 
selections may be made. For this reason strong yearling trees 
are always preferable to older ones and in fact apple tiees of this 
age are now commonly used in California. Should suitable branches 
fail to grow, one of the lower branches which nearly always 
form, must be developed to form a new heady # 
The trees should be gone over several times during the first 
summer to remove surplus shoots and especially those which push 
out far below the point where the lowest branch is wanted. Occa¬ 
sionally some of the upper branches develop a vigorous growth at 
the expense of the others. These should be headed back so as to 
give all a chance to develop, otherwise some of the important scaf¬ 
fold limbs may be found to be very weak at the close of the season. 
When a branch is headed back great pains should be taken to 
make a slanting cut just above a sound bud. If made too far above 
the stub will die back at least as far as the bud, and often farther 
If made too close, the bud may be so injured that a stub is formed 
which will die back at least to the next sound bud. 
As soon as the trees are planted, then the top should be cut 
back as described above. Ordinarily a profusion of branches will 
be pushed out which may be allowed to grow as they will during 
the first season or they may be cut back to one or two buds. By the 
time these branches begin to grow the roots are established m the 
soil and new ones formed so that an adequate supply of plant looc is 
