October 10.] 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
23 
times, and at others intermixed with a portion of food 
in the shape of liquid manure, but not very strong. The 
Franciscea lalifolia and F. tnacrophylla, especially, re¬ 
quire a liberal treatment to bring out fine foliage and 
j handsome, well-coloured flowers of a good or even extra 
j size. 
Whilst in a young state these plants require some 
attention to training to form handsome specimens ; the 
shoots must be topped and tied out, which will allow 
the centre ones to branch more freely, and spread out 
into a more pleasing shape. This attention must be 
continued for a considerable period till tbe object is fully 
attained. 
I Propagation may be effected by cuttings in the usual 
^ way we have so often described. Young shoots placed 
in sand under a bell-glass, in heat, root readily. We 
never observed any seed produced. 
Geisaomena longijiora (Long-flowered G.).—This is 
another desirable old inhabitant of our hothouses which 
we feared was almost lost, but we have met with it in 
the north of England cultivated to a considerable extent 
lately, and grown for a purpose for which it it admirably 
adapted, viz., for winter flowers. The leaves are in 
pairs, moderate in size, and of a pale green; the flowers 
are in terminal racemes, of a tubular shape, about an 
inch and a half long, and of a beautiful crimson-scarlet 
colour; each raceme in a strong plant will measure four 
inches high, and it continues a considerable time in 
i bloom. These qualities are sufficient, we are sure, to 
| render it worthy the attention and cultivation of any of 
I our readers who may possess a stove however small, 
j The only objection we know of against it is, that it is 
: not of a good habit, being apt to run up with a single 
stem and become what is technically termed leggy; but 
this only takes place under ordinary management. By 
a little extra care in early stopping the shoots, tying 
: out the side branches in almost an horizontal position, 
i which will cause more shoots to spring out of the centre, 
! and by tying out and stopping these again, a tolerably 
shaped bushy plant may be procured. Where an extra 
specimen is desirable, and plenty of room is in the 
power of the cultivator, it may be obtained by placing 
five young plants in a pot sixteen inches diameter, one 
in the centre and four around it. So managed, we have 
seen a specimen with ten or twelve heads of its beautiful 
flowers finely expanded in the month of October, when 
most other plants were out of bloom. The soil this plant 
thrives in, is a compost of fibrous peat two parts, turfy 
loam one part, and vegetable mould one part. If the 
peat is not naturally sandy, which is seldom the case, 
add as much as will give the compost a sandy character. 
This plant is impatient of moisture; so, great caution 
must be used in watering it; and to prevent the soil 
becoming stagnant, use plenty of drainage, covering it 
with moss or some other material to prevent it being 
choked up. After it has done flowering, cut it down 
pretty severely, giving no water till the buds break out 
again, when it may have a sufficient quantity to prevent 
the soil cracking away from the pot, which it would do 
if too dry, and then the water runs down between the 
earth and the pot. Should that happen, let the surface 
be stirred aud the loose soil pressed down into the 
crack previously to watering. As the growth progresses, 
attend to the stopping and tying out processes, and 
repot about the middle of April. 
Propagation. —Like several other stove plants, the 
Geissoineria is not long-lived, neither is it desirable it 
should be so. Young plants make better specimens and 
| flower finer; and as this plant is easily propagated it is 
I so much the more desirable to cultivate only young 
plants. Three years is nearly as long as it is prudent 
| to grow plants of this kind. Cuttings strike readily in 
] sand under bell-glasses in heat. Short cuttings are the 
j best, but if desired they will grow from buds alone. 
Take a shoot, cut it into lengths of one pair of leaves to 
each, cut the wood away both above and below the 
leaves, and then pass the knife exactly through the 
centre between the two leaves. This leaves a bud to 
each leaf. Insert them in the sand in the pot, with the 
leaves projecting inwards; if they are long, tie them 
upright to a small deal stick, plunge them in heat, and 
place the bell-glass over them. They will soon root, 
and the bud will start and grow quickly, requiring pot¬ 
ting off and shading for a few days until they are esta¬ 
blished separate plants. By such a method a great 
number of stove plants may be propagated, but it need 
not be resorted to when nice short young shoots are to 
be had. T. Appleby. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Prolongation of Bloom. —Very lately we have seen 
an instance of Dahlias being preserved from early frosts, 
which we consider worth notice. They were chiefly of 
the fancy varieties, and were growing in a bed upon the 
lawn of a flower-garden. They had been pegged down 
whilst young, and kept so by repeated peggings, so that 
the highest plant did not exceed one aud a half feet. 
The owner was desirous to prolong the bloom, aud to do 
so, stuck in, all over the bed, some stout sticks, allowing 
them to stand up above the Dahlias from six to nine 
inches. Every evening when there was the least appear¬ 
ance of frost, the bed was covered over with garden 
mats, sewed together in two's aud three’s, removing 
them in the morniug. By this slight protection they 
are yet in the greatest perfection, whilst all round the 
bed, such as were growing singly in the border and 
others in large masses, were all more or less injured and 
blackened with the frost. Such of our readers whose 
Dahlias may have as yet escaped from frost, would be 
wise, if possible, to try the above method; and the prin¬ 
ciple might be extended to Geraniums, Heliotroptes, &c., 
&c., with the best effects. Now is a good season to mark 
in a book, kept for that purpose, the kinds of Dahlias, 
their colours, heights, and other properties. 
T. Appleby. 
THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
Carrots. —The principal crop for winter supply should 
be taken up this month, choosing a dry day for the 
purpose. They may be stored in a dry cellar or dry shed, 
packed snugly together, but not in too large quantities, 
which would be liable to ferment. They keep best from 
fermenting or starting into growth, if stored for some 
time without placing any dry sand or charred materials 
amongst them, indeed, in a cellar scarcely anything of 
the kind is required at all, until late in the season, when 
a slight covering of straw, after lying a few weeks, will 
keep them secure. We make it a rule to pack them in 
narrow ridges free from the wall or the partition, with 
the crowns outwards on both sides; and in topping-off 
their leaves, we prefer twisting to cutting them. 
Parsnips. —We find always that the best way to main¬ 
tain the flavour of this vegetable, is to leave it in the 
ground. We wheel on the manure and spread it over 
them, and trench them out as required, casting the soil 
into ridges as we proceed, in the same manner that we 
should trench any other piece of ground. 
Salsafy and Scorzonera may either be taken up and 
stored in the same manner as the carrots, or left in the 
ground in the same way as the parsnips. 
Cardoons may be earthed sufficiently, a few at a time, 
as likely to be required, until they have made their final 
growth, when all may be well earthed on some fine dry 
day, aud made secure against winter. 
Celery. —Continue to earth this vegetable carefully in 
