78 THE COTTAGE GARDENER. ] October 81. 
Stanhopeas that have done flowering, and the baskets are rotten or filled 
with roots, may now have new baskets, and fresh peat and moss applied. 
Several species will now have completed their growth, such, for instance, 
! as Catesetums, Myanthus, Cyrtopodiums, &c., and should be placed in 
I a cool house to rest, and no water given to them. The plants on blocks 
! should still have occasional syringings, with a very fine syringe, just to 
keep them from shrinking. T. Appleby. 
PLANT STOVE. 
The great care to be taken during this month is to keep the air of the 
! house dry and cool; 60° by day and 50° by night will be the maximum 
heat with sun in the day. Fires will be necessary, both to keep up the 
heat and dry up damps. All decaying leaves must be removed instantly 
they are discovered, or the effluvia arising from their decomposition will 
be very injurious to the young leaves and the winter flowering species. 
; Creepers should be pruned in, every leaf and stem sponged and tied up 
! to the rafters, so as to admit the greatest quantity of light. All the tribe 
I of Gesneras , excepting Gesnera zebrina, G. oblongata, G. picta, and 
Achirnenes picta, should now be at rest, and put by in some place where 
| neither frost nor cold can reach them. This is a good time, also, to 
destroy all kinds of insects, because every one destroyed now prevents a 
| multitude of progeny in the spring. Where there is a bark-bed , it will 
be necessary to renew it early in the month by a considerable admixture 
of fresh bark, after removing all the decayed to make room for it. The 
renewal now will keep up a good steady heat all through the winter; care, 
however, must be taken not to plunge the plants up to the rim in the 
bed till the heat moderates, and there is no longer any danger of burning 
the roots. Water must be given very sparingly at the roots only, and 
just enough to prevent the plants from flagging. All this keeping the 
heat down and the plants dry, is to induce a cessation of growth or rest, 
so as to enable the plants to start with vigour when there is more light, 
heat, and air, to cause strong healthy growth. T. Appleby. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
The great work to do this month is the planting of Tulips; choose a 
fine day, about the 10th of the month, for that operation. Plant them in 
rows, lengthwise of the bed ; put the tallest growers in the central row, 
the next size on each side, and the lowest growers next the pathway; you 
will then have five rows in the bed, which is a convenient width to observe 
the beauties of each flower when in bloom. The rows should be six 
inches apart, and the bulbs in the rows from four to six inches, in pro¬ 
portion to their size and strength. They should be exactly two inches 
deep. When all are planted, level the soil neatly, and protect the bed 
from very heavy splashing showers. Gentle rains will be beneficial. All 
florist’s flowers in pots, such as Auriculas and Polyanthuses , Carnations 
and Picotees, Pansies, Verbenas, See., should be placed (if not already done) 
under glass. In fine weather, the glass should be drawn off" every day ; 
but if wet and cold prevail, give air only at the back by lifting up the 
lights. See to Dahlia roots , that they are not damp and covered with 
mould. If they are, place them in the sun till they are quite dry, and put 
them in some dry sand or sawdust. Pinks examine, and if the wire-worm 
prevail, stick some lettuce plants amongst them. The wire-worm prefers 
the lettuces to the pinks. Water should only be given on fine sunny 
mornings to plants in pots, and only just sufficient to prevent flagging. 
T. Appleby. 
GREENHOUSE. 
Air, admit rather freely in mild weather. Azaleas, for blooming early, 
keep in the warmest end of the house, and they will not lose many of their 
leaves. Those for flowering in spring and early summer keep as cool as 
possible, so that the temperature is above 35°. Bulbs, such as hyacinths, 
tulips, narcissus, &c., pot for spring flowering. Calceolarias, keep 
growing slowly, in an airy moist atmosphere ; seedlings, pot off, and 
prick into pans. Camellias, finish setting in, and the late ones may 
have their buds thinned if necessary, Cinerarias, encourage the for- 
wardest to grow in a moist gentle heat; keep these for spring and sum¬ 
mer just moving. Climbers, however beautiful, cut back to give light 
to the other plants. Chrysanthemums, remove incipient shoots from 
the axils of the leaves, on the main shoots ; thin the buds where too 
thick; encourage with manure water ; and, if not all in doors, have pro¬ 
tection ready. Damp stagnant air, avoid. Fires, light in frosty and 
foggy weather, that air may be given ; but give artificial heat during the 
day, rather than at night, unless the frost is very severe. Furnaces 
ancl Flues, clean out previously. Heatiis and Epacrises, keep in 
the airiest part. Genistas, Cytisuses, Coronillas, Sec., syringe in a 
sunny day, and aid with manure water, to cause the bloom to open 
strongly. Geraniums or Pelargoniums, encourage the old plants 
with a good position. Nip any luxuriant shoot, so as to equalise the 
strength ; keep fresh potted ones just moving. Plants, keep clear from 
dirt and insects, by washing and fumigation. Temperature, keep from 
40° to 45° at night. Water only when necessary in dull weather : little 
will be wanted, unless plants swelling their flower buds : for these use 
water warmer than the air of the house. A slight dusting with the 
syringe over the foliage will be serviceable in a sunny morning. Clean 
pots, paths, stages ; tie, train and fresh label in bad weather. 
R. Fish. 
FLOWER-GARDEN. 
Anemones, plant for first or succession bloom. Auriculas and 
Polyanthuses, put under shelter (See October). Bulbous Roots, 
finish planting in dry weather ; pot for latest forcing, and for plunging in 
flower beds, Sec. Carnation layers, finish planting and potting ; secure 
the pot at once from rains. Climbers of all sorts, plant, prune, and 
train. Compost, prepare and turn in dry weather. Crocus, pot large 
lumps from the borders for forcing. Half-iiardy bulbs in borders, 
secure from frost and rain by a boarded covering. Dahlias, cut down 
after frost, and let the roots remain as long as it is safe; when taken up, 
dry them in open sheds, &c., before storing, where frost and damp 
cannot reach them. Dress the beds and borders, and put mark-sticks 
to bulbs and other roots, to guide you when digging. Edgings, plant. 
Evergreens, finish planting, b. Fibrous-rooted Plants, finish 
dividing and planting, b. Fork over borders, Sec. Gladiolus : all 
the old sorts may yet be planted; most of the new do better planted in 
spring. Grass, cut very close the last time ; keep clear of leaves ; and 
roll. Gravel, weed and roll. Hedges, plant, clip, and clear at bottom. ! 
Hoe and rake shrubberies, and bury the leaves, Sec., between the plants. 
Hollyhocks, finish planting. Layering, perform generally. Leaves, 
gather for compost, Sec. Marvel of Peru, take up and store like 
dahlias. Mulch round trees and shrubs lately planted. Plant peren¬ 
nials and biennials (see October). Planting, perform generally, 
and finish as early as practicable. Potted Plants, for forcing, 
plunge in the earth of a well-sheltered border facing the sun. Prune j 
shrubs and trees generally. Ranunculuses, plant for earliest bloom. ( 
Seedlings of them, in boxes, &c., remove to a warm situation. Weak 
Roses, prune without delay; very strong ones, delay pruning till March; 
tender ones, secure from frost with moss, fern, &c. Shrubs of all kinds, 
plant, stake, and mulch. Suckers, from roses and other shrubs, sepa¬ 
rate and plant. Tigridias, save from frost as long as possible ; should 
not be dried till January or February. Tulips, finish planting, b. 
D. Beaton. 
FORCING DEPARTMENT. 
Air, admit as freely as the season allows. Bark-beds, renew or turn 
over, to keep up the required bottom heat. Cucumbers, maintain a 
lively heat too by renewed linings ; if in houses, secure plenty of atmo¬ 
spheric moisture. Dress borders, and keep a dry porous surface. Fire 
Heat, by whatever means it may be distributed, must now be daily 
employed, to keep the temperature from 55° to 60°, with an advance in 
sunshine of 10°. Leaves, keep clean with sponge, Sec., and remove 
decayed ones. Pines (fruiters) require a temperature of 70° to 80°, sink¬ 
ing to 65° at night; in dung-pits, keep airy and dry. Protect outside 
borders, in which forcing trees are planted, from rains and frost. Peach, 
prune ; wash with diluted ammonia water from the gas-works before 
training. Tobacco fumigation, employ, if insects appear. Vines, 
strip the old bark off, and clean, as the peach, before commencing to 
force; begin with a day temperature of 50°. Late Grapes, keep dry 
by fire and ventilating freely. Water (tepid), apply with the syringe on 
clear afternoons. Sulphur, apply where Red spider exists. 
R. Errington. 
ORCHARD. 
Planting of all kinds carry out. Stake newly-planted trees for fear 
of wind. Mulch newly-planted trees as soon as planted. Pruning, 
commence. Currants and Gooseberries, prune, b. Apples, prune, 
m. Plums and Cherries, prune, m. Large Orchard-trees, prune, 
e. Raspberries, prune and dress, e. Figs, pull off all young fruit as 
large as a horse-bean, b. ; protect from frost, m. Nectarines and 
Apricots, clear away the remaining leaves from, m. Nails and shreds, 
draw out superfluous or rotten ones from all wall trees, m; pick and 
prepare them for renailing. Suckers, clear away from all fruit-trees, m. 
Vines, prune, m. Espaliers, prune, m. Mulberries, plant, b. 
Medlars, plant, b. Raspberries, plant, b. Strawberries, plant, 
b. Stones of fruits, sow, b. Apply Top-dressings to all fruits in a 
weakly state as soon as they are pruned. Protect British Queen Straw¬ 
berries, m. Top-dress between old strawberry rows, b. Trench, or 
otherwise prepare ground for planting, b. Walnuts, plant, b. Fork 
ground about fruit-trees slightly, b. R. Errington. 
KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
Artichokes, winter dress. Asparagus-beds, dress; attend to that 
in forcing, and plant in succession. Beans, plant a good main crop 
toward the end of the month. Beet (Red), dig up for storing; leave, 
or plant out for seed. Brocoli, lay down or remove to other warmer 
situations with good balls of earth ; take care not to injure their leaves. 
Cabbages, plant; plant out for seed. Cardoons, earth up, b. Car¬ 
rots, dig up and store, b.; leave, or plant out for seed. Cauliflowers, 
prick out in frames, Sec., for winter protection, pay particular attention 
to airing in all fine weather, both hand-glass crops and otherwise. 
Celery, earth up in dry afternoons, having the earth all forked up pre¬ 
viously. Coleworts, plant. Composts, prepare. Cucumbers, attend 
to in forcing. Drain vacant ground. Dung, prepare for hotbeds. 
Earthing-up, attend to. Endive, blanch, and protect. Garlic, 
plant, b. Herb ary, clean, &c. Horseradish, dig up and store. 
Hotbeds, make for salading, &c. Jerusalem Artichokes, dig up 
and store, Leaves, Sec, continually clear away. Lettuces, plant in 
frames; attend to those advancing. Mint, plant; force in hotbed. 
Musiiroom-beds, make; attend to those in production. Onions, in 
store, look over; (Potato), plant. Parsley, plant some in a frame for 
use in snowy weather. Parsnips, dig up and store, b.; leave or plant 
out for seed. Peas, of the best early kinds, may be sown toward the 
middle or end of the month. Potatoes, attend to those in store, or 
dig up, should any remain out. Rhubarb, clear away decayed leaves, 
and top-dress; also pot otf any number of plants that may be required 
for early forcing, to bring into the forcing structure as wanted. Radishes, 
sow, in hotbed. Salsafy, dig up and store. Savoys, plant for seed, b. 
Scorzonera, dig up and store. Sea-kale, pay particular attention to 
the removing of all the decayed leaves, Sec .; top-dressing, covering up | 
with fermenting materials, or other modes of forcing. Seeds, dress and 
store. Shallots, plant, b. Small Salading, sow ; sow in hotbed. 
Spinach, thin, earth-stir, and keep clear of decayed and fallen leaves. 
Thinning, attend to. Trench, ridge, &c., vacant ground. Turnips, 
attend to thinning out, or hoeing the late sown crops, and should the 
weather be inclined to set in very severe, any number of turnips that are 
full grown, may be taken up and stored for winter use. 
T. Weaver. 
London: Printed by Harry Wooldridge, Winchester High-street, 
in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Orr, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish of 
Christ Church, City of London.—October 31st, 1850. 
