December 12.J 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
167 
Culture —The principal part of the genus are natives 
of the hottest districts of South America. They are 
mostly found growing on either trees standing singly, on 
the highest branches, or on trees growing at the edge of 
the forest. Here these plants receive the full amount of 
the sun’s rays, and, consequently, in this country should 
be exposed to as much light as possible. But as our 
plants are under glass, and we have many dark days, 
the effect of full exposure to the sun might burn the 
leaves, it follows that it is more safe to give them as 
much light as we can, but shade them from the rays of 
the sun, especially during the summer months, when 
the leaves are growing, and are young and tender. 
The compost to grow them in should be—very fibrous 
peat, two parts; chopped sphagnum, one part; and 
I small pieces of charcoal and broken potsherds, one part. 
This will form an open material to grow them in, and 
will allow the water to pass off freely. The pots ought 
to be rather small in proportion to the plants, and 
should be half filled with broken potsherds for drainage. 
The best time for potting is when they begin to grow. 
In summer, during the growing season, water moderately 
at the roots, but be very sparing of the syringe. In 
winter they should be without leaves entirely, and should 
then have all the sunlight the season will afford, and no 
water whatever, unless the pseudo-bulbs shrink very 
much. See the method of potting orchids described at 
the commencement of the third volume of The Cottage 
Gardener. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
The trying season of dark winter is now fast approach¬ 
ing. We have already had some nights of sharp frost; 
and we trust our readers have profited by our warnings, 
and preserved their pets from its injurious powers. 
Auriculas and Polyanthuses require constant attention 
in covering up by night, and exposing to the full light 
during the day. Give plenty of air on all favourable 
occasions. Should the frost prevail above the power of 
the sun in the day, give air only at the back, by tilting 
up the lights, and shutting up early in the afternoon. 
Be careful in the application of water, and give it, when 
absolutely necessary, only in the morning of fine days, 
that the surface of the soil may become dry before closing 
up for the evening. Carnations and Picotees require 
similar attention. If they are kept too close now they 
will be apt to mildew and draw up weak and spindling. 
Dahlias, look over occasionally, and clear away all 
mouldy stems or decaying roots. If these are permitted 
to remain the mould will soon spread to the sound roots, 
and cause them to perish also. Hollyhocks, if strong, 
may yet be planted where they are to flower. Cuttings 
lately struck had better remain in pots under the pro¬ 
tection of a cold frame, covered up in frosty weather 
with mats. Look over all the frames constantly for 
slugs, as they will now be prowling about in search of 
food in frames and pits. T. Appleby. 
THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
Artichokes. —The Globe artichokes, if not already pro¬ 
tected as previously recommended, should he attended 
to immediately, by placing about them dry leaves, fern, or 
dry mulch of some kind, with a thin casing of earth on the 
outside to keep the wind from disturbing the covering. 
Jerusalem artichokes should have their stems cut off and 
laid over them, with some other rubbish for a slight pro¬ 
tection, in case the ground should become so much frozen 
as to prevent their being taken up when required; or the 
stalks may be tied up in bundles whilst dry, and turned 
to some other account, whilst the tubers of the artichokes 
may be trenched out of the ground, and again planted 
with the middling-sized tubers whole. Plant them two 
feet apart in the rows, and let the rows be four feet apart, 
leaving tbo soil in ridges as the work proceeds. The 
best tubers may be stored in cellars, or be earthed over 
in ridges, and if protected a little in order to keep them 
from getting dry and shrivelled, no frost will injure them. 
The small ones, or any that can be spared, may be 
stored for the pigs, or more especially for poultry; all 
kinds of which, as well as the gold, silver, and common 
pheasants, are remarkably fond of them. 
Asparagus. —That which is intended to be taken up 
for forcing should be surface-protected, either hy the 
manure that is intended to be trenched in for the next 
crop, or with mulch of some kind, so that in the event 
of frost the quantity required may without difficulty be 
taken up. Asparagus at the present time in cut, should 
be encouraged by applications of tepid water, with a little 
salt dissolved and some liquid manure mixed with it, 
which will greatly assist its growth. Take care that the 
bottom-heat at the commencement of forcing is very 
moderate; if necessary to hurry the asparagus on, apply 
surface-heat; if in frames or pits only depending on fer¬ 
menting materials, apply the heat at top instead of at 
bottom, which may be done by placing the linings on 
any kind of refuse primings, furze, heath, or refuse brush 
faggots, &c. 
Celery. —The principal winter crops will ere this 
have had their final earthings, and should now have a 
provision made for protection when frost sets in; if the 
celery has been cultivated as recommended by us in 
trenches or beds five or six feet in width, with the rows 
placed crossways in such beds at from eighteen inches 
to two feet apart, according to the season of planting, a 
quantity of good sized, well-grown, and well-blanched 
celery has in all probability been secured with but little 
trouble in protecting it. We have at this time an abun¬ 
dant crop, varying in height from four to five feet, and 
weighing, with the outside leaves on, each from five to 
seven and eight pounds. We always trench it out as 
required, leaving the celery bed as we proceed formed 
into sloping banks, and in rough ridges crossways of the 
banks. On frosty mornings these ridges are forked over, 
or if frozen too hard for the fork, then the pick-axe is 
made use of—a beautiful tilth being thus secured for 
succeeding crops. 
Cauliflowers. —This vegetable requires during the 
present month a liberal admission of air, but protection 
against severe frost should, at the same time, be attended 
to. All decaying leaves should, of course, be kept cleared 
away, and the surface of the soil be kept healthy about 
the plants by frequent stirrings and dredgings of dry 
dust applied about them, particularly in damp dark 
weather; as slight protection only is required even 
should the frost be very severe. Those in pots should 
be duly shifted, kept close to the glass, and water 
applied as required; for if their growth be in any way 
checked by dryness, it is probable that at the growing 
season, when planted out, they will flower instead of 
starting vigorously. Those pricked on borders, sloping 
banks, and other sheltered corners, will now require 
attention, and occasional applications of dry dust. 
Peas, beans, young lettuce plants, Horn carrots, radishes, 
&c., will require the same kind of attention as the cauli¬ 
flowers. Applications of dry dust about such things for 
the next two months will always be found most valuable 
in preventing canker, shanking, &c.; if mildew prevails 
amongst the young lettuce or any other protected plants, 
apply dredgings of fresh slaked lime and wood-ashes 
mixed in equal parts. This preparation we have found 
a most effectual and sure remedy. 
If the space has been manured and dug between the 
small fruit plantations, and there is still any quantity of 
colew or t plants in the seed-beds, plant them out thickly in 
such places. We have seen some that have been thus 
