THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
1H9 
i December 2(>.j 
! oxercised at this period, when the solar heat produces 
j so much excitement. However, we advise that a foot or 
■ so of new tan he trenched into the bottom of the bed, 
1 and a little mixed with surface tan—and this merely 
to promote durability through the ensuing winter. We 
are well aware that the tank system is superior to all 
this, and that oak leaves are in the main superior to 
tan; hut we are merely advising those who cannot reach 
I all these nice things; and if their first hand is tried in 
! this precarious.process, they will consider a good tank 
I system as a child's play, if by good luck they should fall 
1 in with it. After a renewal of the tan, they must, however, 
beware of “burning;” they must by no moans plunge 
deep. They must, moreover, watch daily their bottom- 
heat thermometer. As before observed—if the plants 
; require a watering, let it be three days before the opera¬ 
tion of shifting. 
j August. —The plants will now he in tho height of 
their growth, and through the whole month we think 
the highest temperature allowed may bo permitted. 
( After tho plants have been shifted a fortnight or so, they 
; will again requiro the water-pot. Until the plants are 
beginning to invest the new soil however, they may be 
kept moist enough by copious syringings, damping 
I also tho surface of the tan daily. All that is further 
I necessary, is a most liberal ventilation from eight a. si. 
1 until past four p.m., applying all tho atmospheric mois¬ 
ture possible tho moment the house is closed, and syring¬ 
ing just previous to closing. 
September. —The August advice will do perfectly 
■ well for this month, except that ventilation may even be 
j more liberal still, when the weather is fine. This we 
I advise to put a check on too rampant growth, for in 
j order to have fine “ shows,” the tissue of the plant must 
become highly solidified, not stunted. 
October. —The light will now begin to decrease 
! considerably, and both artificial heat and atmospheric 
I moisture must give way in a proportionate degree. Still, 
* however, persist in permitting a considerable increase of 
heat when the weather is bright. We need hardly say, 
beware of burning at root. The advice applies to every 
month alike ; but it requires a double amount of watch¬ 
fulness at all times ; for three weeks after disturbing the 
fermenting material. 
November. —The dulness of this month is proverbial, 
the heat and moisture, therefore, must experience a con¬ 
siderable decline. The tan-bed will require some re¬ 
newal in the early part of this month, in order to go well 
through the winter; and if tho tan is mellow, or some¬ 
what dry, let it be well watered with tepid water, and 
j then stirred deeply witli a pointed stake, as deep as the 
! stake can go. The whole may then be cased over up to, 
I and rather above, the rim of the pot, providing the 
I bottom-heat has declined sufficiently to bear it. This 
I renewal must be watched, and water applied to the tan if 
I necessary. 
j December. —This and the succeeding month require 
' a very similar course of practice; much fire-heat will at 
times be necessary, and all possible means must he taken 
to counteract dryness in the atmosphere. Syringing can 
seldom be permitted in these two months; an equivalent, 
therefore, must be found. Frequent syringings or 
sprinklings on the surface of the tan will he good prac¬ 
tice, and once a week it may he stirred up with a stake, 
as before observed. Besides this, all floors may he kept 
moist, evaporating pans kept in continual requisition, 
and even the walks sprinkled, if necessary. Jf the weather 
become unusually severe, rather give up five degrees on 
the thermometer than continue a rousting fire for 
several days. In emergencies of this kind, they will 
take no harm at 55°, hut not a degree below this should 
be permitted. 
February. —The temperature will now begin to rise 
again slightly, and a kind of resuscitation will become 
manifest towards the end of the month. Most cultivators 
who do not possess a tank-heated chamber, find it ne¬ 
cessary to make a re-arrangement of their stock during 
this month, and to seize the opportunity of renewing 
bottom-heats, &c.; this brings us to the point from which 
we commenced. 
Having already occupied much more space than we 
intended, wo must ho permitted to conclude with a few 1 
maxims which apply to pine culture under almost every j 
mode, and which the amateur will do well to bear in : 
mind; remembering, also, that no set of rules or maxims, 1 
however well concocted, will bear a servile adherence. ! 
Tho variations in seasons will ever give rise to various ' 
modifications. If there he one maxim of greater import I 
than another, it is this: let heat advance with light, j 
atmospheric moisture increase with heat, and ventilation 
keep pace with both. 
Air Heat. —Beware of excess of night heat. Let the 
highest daily temperature at all seasons bo during the 
last three hours of fair daylight. 
Air Moisture'. —Do not permit condensed moisture to 
lodge more than twenty-four hours in the axils of the 
leaves, during October, November, December, January, 
and February. An increase of heat for a few hours, with 
liberal ventilation, will soon disperse it. 
All heating surfaces should be provided with evapo¬ 
rating pans, or an equivalent. It is a good plan to placo 
a return pipe, or pipes, in a cemented trough the whole 
length, and by turning a tap, to cover the pipe over 
head with water, when necessary, which will he nearly 
always; sudden gushes of steam are too evanescent in 
character to he sufficient. Let all floors be washed 
down as often as possible. 
Root Moisture. — If atmospheric moisture is plen¬ 
tiful, and syringings are had recourse to occasionally, 
less watering than is commonly imagined will suffice, 
especially with tho Black Jamaica pine, which has been 
kept without root watering all November, December, and 
part of January without damage. Tho queen section 
will, however, require more than twice as much. 
Ventilation. —Endeavour to give fresh air daily if 
only for an hour or two; and in proportion as the plants 
push up luxuriantly, so increase it. The huge crowns 
complained of arc chiefly tho rosults of imperfect venti¬ 
lation. 
Bottom-Heat. —The moment this declines below the 
prescribed temperature, let a slight addition o£ new tan 
he applied, heaping it up to the pots rims as soon as tho 
heat permits. Let all water used in the house be at 
least equal to the average temperature of the period in¬ 
doors. The oftener the tan is stirred up the better. Let 
the ojierator at all times beware of breaking the foliage, 
or of cutting away any portion still green. The pine 
abhors all meddling. 
We may now give a list of the best kinds:— 
The Queen. —A free grower and an early fruiter. This 
is peculiarly fitting for the earliest summer limit, and it 
is excellent during September and October. 
The Ripley Queen. —A variety of the old Queen. It 
is a very fine fruit, and by many preferred to the last. 
St. Vincent, or Green (Hive. —An excellent winter 
fruit. 
Black Jamaica. —This tree is, perhaps, the best winter 
pine in the kingdom, i t is too often confounded with 
the Montserrat. 
The Black Antigua. —A noble pyramidal fruit, with 
large pips ; should ho cut a little before it is quite ripe. 
Brown Sugar-loaf. — A fine pine ; large and showy; 
with a very juicy flesh. Is said by some to swell tole¬ 
rably well in winter. 
'The White Providence. — One of the largest and 
noblest of pines; flavour rather inferior. 
Trinidad. —Another large pine of pyramidal shape; 
flavour not first-rate. 
