23(5 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[January 0. 
home, is to place an upright block of wood in the centre 
of the pot; clothe it with moss, and as the plant advances 
in growth train to it, and fasten it with fine copper wire. 
It will root into the moss, and form a handsome elevated 
plant. When growing they require a liberal amount of 
water, hut care must he taken that the water does not 
lodge in the hearts of the young leaves, as if it does 
there is great danger they will rot. In very hot weather 
syringe the plants in the morning, and give air to dry 
up the extra moisture. Shade from bright sunshine—re¬ 
moving the shade by four or five o’clock. This treatment 
applies only to the warmest part of the year. The annual 
growths should he finished early in the autumn, and then 
the heat and moisture should he reduced; and when 
winter approaches cease watering altogether. 
The treatment the second section requires is different in 
several respects. The soil they should have is a com¬ 
post of sandy peat, fibrous loam, and half decayed 
leaves, with a small portion of river sand. Drain mode¬ 
rately well, and place four or five bulbs in a six-inch pot, 
excepting C. Gardneriana , which is a strong grower, and 
requires a larger pot, and fewer pseudo-bulbs in it. The 
time for potting is as soon as the bloom is over, because 
as soon as the flowers decay the young leaves begin 
immediately to push forth from the same sheath, and 
will soon begin to put out new roots; before that takes 
place the plants should be potted. This Rule acplies 
to all Orchids, for if the new roots have progressed to 
any extent, or even at all, before the potting takes place, 
there is the greatest danger that they will be injured; 
and if the first young roots are destroyed, the shoots for 
that season will certainly be crippled, and the produc¬ 
tion of flowers the following season be rendered doubt¬ 
ful,— therefore, always pot in time! 
The situation in which to place this section of Caio- 
()yne is on a shelf near the glass in a cool stove; we 
have proved this to be the best place for them. Whilst 
growing they should be freely watered—moderately, till 
the leaves are considerably grown; and then abundantly, 
to encourage the production of fine foliage; which is sure 
to cause large pseudo-bulbs, and, consequently, plenty of 
flowers the following season. In potting them, use the 
precaution to place the bulbs just on the surface of the 
soil, and keep that level with the rim of the pots, not 
elevated, as is quite proper and right for all orchids that 
grow entirely on trees. In fact, pot them as you would 
any other terrestrial orchids, except keeping the pseudo¬ 
bulbs quite on the surface. 
Winter or Resting-period Treatment. —As soon as the 
pseudo-bulbs are fully formed cease watering, and allow 
the leaves to turn yellow and die; remove them and 
continue the plants in the same situation, keeping them 
dry and cool. Pay attention to them occasionally, to see 
that the bulbs continue plump and fresh ; should they 
appear to shrivel, give a little water, which will cause 
them to swell again ; but be careful not to overdo it, or 
you may induce them to start prematurely. It is quite 
possible to have two crops of flowers the same year from 
this section of the genus, and it has been recommended 
to do so by a writer on orchids, but we fear it is asking 
from these lovely plants too much; and we think it 
would exhaust their strength and power to produce such 
fine bulbs and flowers as they will do, if the usual annual 
growth is contentedly allowed them. 
T. APPLEBY. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
The long talked of, and, perhaps, long to he remem¬ 
bered, year 1851 has come upon us at last; and very 
mildly too, at least, in the neighbourhood of London. 
We do not remember ever seeing the various florists’ 
flowers look so fresh and lively as they do at present, 
more especially Carnations, Picotees, and Pinks. We 
’ trust all our florist friends can say the same, and we may 
congratulate ourselves upon the fair prospect there is : 
that British florists will have it in their power to put 
their favourites in their best trim and holiday dress, to 
meet the eyes of the great numbers of foreign florists , 
that will visit this country during this wonderfully 
attractive year. The floral exhibitions we trust will be 
so good and excellent, that the continental growers will 
go home astonished at the riches that Flora has bestowed 
upon, and rewarded our industrious and zealous florists 
with, in this our own land. 
See back numbers for instruction; there is not much 
actual work or operations to be done just yet. Turnover 
composts during frosty weather to mellow and pulverise. 
Keep all plants in pits and frames tightly covered every 
night; there is no certainty that the grand enemy, frost, 
may not pay us a more unexpected than welcome visit. 
T. Appleby. 
THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
The mild autumn of the past year has been very 
favourable for all out of door operations; and those who 
are really fond of their gardens, and take a true interest j 
in -what they are doing, can always find plenty of em- | 
ployment. Take special care at all times, when the i 
surface of the soil is steady, to keep it open by hand- ! 
scarifiers, Dutch hoes, &c.; for by keeping these opera- j 
tions in full practice, the surface of the soil is at all j 
times kept in a healthy condition; and severe frost j 
does not injure the crops to any extent, whilst severe 
damage frequently occurs when the soil has been allowed 
to remain undisturbed, and become in any way close, j 
or surface-bound. 
If the weather continues open, keep the cabbage 
quarter filled up, should any vacancies occur, and the 
yellow leaves cleared; keep the soil about them also 
loose, and plant in succession. Sow peas, too, and beans, 
and a little cauliflower, in pans, as well as lettuce. 
Warm borders may be sown with radishes, and early 
Horn carrots; also a small warm corner with lettuce, 
and any favourite variety of cabbage. 
Cauliflowers in pots should not be allowed to get dry, 
or pot-bound; those intended to turn out in February, 
should have their final shift at this time. 
Parsley .—The best curled variety should be procured; 
half an ounce will sow a drill 100 ft. in length. Two 
sowings should be made in every garden—one in Feb¬ 
ruary, and the other after midsummer, which will fur¬ 
nish enough of this useful herb for the whole season. 
The Parsnip is a very nutritious root; and for those 
who are fond of it, it is a very profitable vegetable 
to cultivate. There are two or three varieties: the Hol¬ 
low crowned, the Guernsey, &c. 
Radishes .— Wood's early FrWnie, Long Salmon, with 
the red and white turnip, would furnish a succession 
throughout the year. A small spot of the black Spanish 
may be sown for winter. 
Spinach .—The round, for spring and summer, is a good 
variety; and tine prickly for winter. The Flanders is also 
a good variety, and will answer the purpose for either 
summer or winter use. If a plant or two of the New 
Zealand spinach be raised in heat with the ridge cucum¬ 
bers, and placed out under a hand-glass on a little heat, 
with the same treatment as the ridge cucumbers, they \ 
will furnish a plentiful supply of green leaves in the heat 
of summer, at a time when the others are apt to run 
quickly to seed. 
Turnips .— Early Dutch, Wiite stone, Snowball, and j 
Red-topped American are all very good varieties. 
The short-jointed vegetable marrow should be cultivated 
by every one who has a garden. James Barnes. 
