January 1C.] 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
239 
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the amount of dignity possessed by the pine-apple, i 
and the great antiquity of the juicy grape, they can 
scarcely claim a pre-eminence even in appearance on 
the dessert or the exhibition table. 
We may presume, that peaches for early forcing are 
plants within the house, and that its wall is on arches. 
Readies or nectarines in pots will, of course, require at 
least a similar course of atmospheric treatment; we 
need, therefore, give no separated detail of proceedings 
as connected with them, but may just observe, that 
when thus situated they may enjoy one advantage 
which those planted out seldom can—the advantage of 
a slight amount of bottom-heat. Those who have early 
vines in the commencement of forcing, frequently avail 
themselves of the chance offered of introducing a body 
of fermented material within the house; and this serves 
to plunge various pots in, which are just commencing the 
first stage of forcing. This is very good practice; for, i 
somehow, we have not so genial a warmth from either 1 
jiipes or flues, although a good provision be made for 
producing atmospheric moisture. One thing is certain 
with fermenting material, namely, that any amount of 
heat which the fermenting material may evolve, will 
certainly be accompanied by a good proportion of atmo¬ 
spheric moisture, together with the stimulating gases 
of the manure, which most practitioners adjudge to 
have an influence on the bursting buds. The manure 
may be introduced fresh from the stable door, pro¬ 
vided no plants possessing foliage are in the house; 
the rank steam from the reeking manure will go far 
to extirpate insects; and with a turning or two, and 
frequent waterings, it will be perfectly harmless by the 
time the vines, &c., have budded. In such a situation, 
vines in pots, figs, cherries, peaches, with roses, lilacs, 
and other flowering shrubs may be partially plunged for 
the benefit of bottom-heat; which, however, should not 
exceed 75° at the depths the pots are placed. When 
the buds are developed, the pots will require removal to 
a lighter situation. 
We will suppose, that the peach-house is established 
with trees in a tolerably thriving state ; that they were 
forced last year, and introduced for a somewhat early 
forcing annually; the borders inside the house, if the 
previous management has been proper, will be tolerably 
dry, and water must be administered liberally. Pre¬ 
viously, it is well to remove all the loose-looking soil, 
which the surface of a peach or vine border annually 
presents if dry. This may be lightly swept away; and 
the process we are about to recommend exactly accords 
with the “ top-dressing" or “ surfacing” of pot-plants. 
The fact is, the surface of soils subjected to dryness 
through artificial heat, becomes, after a time, what is 
commonly termed exhausted—its organic structure re¬ 
duced to a powder, and all its manurial properties dis¬ 
sipated. Such is well removed, and replaced with chopped 
turfy loam and manure blended; and this compost may 
be an inch or two thicker than that previously removed. | 
On this our practice has been to lay about three inches 
of half decomposed manure, leaf soil, &c.; and this com- , 
pletcs the top-dressing affair. 
And now comes the watering: this must be done a little 
at a time, for if the border be very dry, much water will 
escape at first in the fissures created by dryness. Clear 
water, of the temperature of 90°, may therefore be 
applied two days successively; and the third day we 
would give liquid manure, clarified, at the same tempera¬ 
ture. If no other kind is at hand, three ounces to a 
gallon of the best Peruvian guano will make an excellent 
liquid dressing. 
All is now ready, so far as the root is concerned; but 
we must inquire a little concerning the branches. If 
these have not received a dressing of any kind, they 
must have one; not only as a destroyer of the eggs of i 
insects, but as a preservative. Our practice is to beat ! 
up two ounces of soft soap in a gallon of tepid water, 
then to add three pints of fresh lime, and three handsful 1 
of sulphur. This is all well beat up, and in addition, 
the mixture is kept frequently stirred during the appli¬ 
cation. Every branch and twig should be well painted 
with this mixture; and the trees being properly pruned I 
previously, may now be carefully trained, and all is 
ready for the commencement of forcing. 
The properly awakening a deciduous tree or shrub 
from a state of repose, is not a thing however to be 
dated from any given day; much caution is necessary 
in the first approach towards a stimulating temperature. 
The first part of the process is to merely shut the house 
close, and to preserve a constantly moist state of atmo¬ 
sphere; in fact, to imitate one of those fine growing days 
in spring, when primroses love to unfold their buds, and 
birds to collect materials l'or building their nests. Frost 
must of course be excluded, and until the buds begin to 
open, the day thermometer may range from 45° to 55°, ! 
and the night from 40° to 45° ; an advance of 5° may 
be allowed in sunshine. 
Slight syringings morning and evening may be resorted 
to, but we would rather depend chiefly on securing a I 
certain amount of atmospheric moisture in the air by 
other means; fearing lest the syringe should too soon 
wash off'the dressing; however, a fine rose may be put 
on the syringe. 
In about a fortnight or so, the blossom-buds will 
begin to show the tint of the corolla or petals ; and now 
a slight increase of warmth may be permitted, and 
shortly the amount of dampness must be decreased, 
especially in the day-time. Still much caution is neces¬ 
sary: it must be remembered that the bud requires a 
given time, in which not only to burst its envelope, 
but to progressively enlarge, until the corolla and all the 
other parts attain their fair proportions; and nature will 
not be driven with impunity beyond a given rate. 
The blooming period having in reality commenced, 
let a somewhat liberal amount of artificial heat, if really | 
necessary, be kept up during the early part of each day, 
in order to enable the operator to ventilate liberally; for 
this is most conducive to the free setting or impreg¬ 
nation of the blossoms. And now the thermometer, by 
artificial heat, may range from 55° to 65° daily, provided 
a very free ventilation may accompany it. During sun¬ 
shine the thermometer may rise to 70°, which beat we 
should not think it expedient to exceed; we would 
rather increase the air. Still, at night, descend to about 
45°, and apply moisture liberally about floors or other 
cool surfaces—but no syringing. Thus the blossom- 
buds in their various stages will, in ordinary parlance, 
“ feed,” or, in other words, will absorb, so as to open 
with renewed vigour during the ensuing day. 
In another week or so, the young fruit will be seen 
peeping from the point of the husk or decayed corolla 
which encases them, and the bonds of which they must 
be enabled to burst. And now it is that the true con¬ 
dition of the root action can be pretty well ascertained. 
If they are many days struggling to get free, it is a sure 
symptom of a sluggish action of root; on the contrary, 
fine fresh trees in their prime will soon enable their 
progeny to escape. 
Now must some slight modification take place in our 
gardening tactics; now a less amount of ventilation 
being requisite, less artificial heat will be necessary. A 
moistened atmosphere is now particularly required, and 
syriugings must be resumed. As for temperature, persist 
in sustaining in the day 55° to 60°, and at night 45° to 50°. 
With this heat rest contented; in sunshine le.t it rise to 
75°, provided a circulation of air is established with it. 
On dull days it is not objectionable to syringe, not only 
morning and evening, but also in the course of the day, 
if the air feels dry; this will enable the young fruit to 
escape from the dead corolla. 
