February 13.J 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
309 
dark green. Altogether it is a very desirable fine plant. 
The only drawback upon its general cultivation is its 
shyness to flower, but that defect may he overcome by a 
method which we shall describe below. 
Soil. —This stove shrub being of a woody habit, and 
very much branched, requires a rather strong soil. Turfy 
loam of a yellow colour, such as is known about London 
as the Norwood loam, is the best. Mix it with about 
one-fourtli peat, and one-eighth of vegetable mould made 
with decayed leaves two years old. 
Summer Culture .—Supposing the plants have attained 
the right size to flower, pot them early in March in the 
above compost, in pots rather small in proportion to the 
size of the plants. This is to cause a dwarf woody 
growth. The flowers being produced on short woody 
branches, water must be given pretty liberally during 
summer to give strength to the branches. The heat 
should be during this season 75° by day and (30° by 
night. 
Winter Culture. —In September reduce the quantity of 
water considerably for the first month, and after that only 
water once or twice through the winter. The plant will 
then shed most of its leaves and be in a state of rest, 
which is the grand secret to cause this fine plant to 
flower. The essential jmints to secure that desirable 
end, are to obtain free growth and plenty of foliage 
during summer, and a complete rest in winter. 
Propagation : by Cuttings. —Half-ripened shoots form 
the proper cuttings, very young wood being apt to decay 
immediately in the close confined air and moisture under 
the bell-glasses. Choose cuttiugs with the lower portion of 
them nearly hardefied into wood. Fill 5J-inch pots with 
pure loam made very sandy, and place a layer of pure 
silver sand upon it one inch deep. Then put in the 
cuttings with the leaves inclining inwards, so as not to 
touch the bell-glass when it is fitted on just within the 
rim of the pot. Place them in heat; if convenient, a 
tan-bed will he the best, plunging the pots in it level 
with the rim. The cuttings will take a considerable 
time to strike, and the glasses must be wiped quite dry 
every morning. Unless these directions are strictly 
attended to, no success will attend the operation. 
There is another species named Solandra laris, more 
recently introduced, so named because the leaves are 
very glossy and smooth. It is quite as handsome as the 
S. grandijlora, and will flower when the plants are 
young. We have had plants of it in flower not a foot 
high. 7s. fid. The same treatment as the preceding 
species suits it exactly. T. Appleby. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Auricula and Polyanthus.— These lovely spring 
flowers will now require attention. Let some compost 
be placed under cover to dry. The best that we know 
of is made with light loam from an upland pasture one 
half; decayed leaves (vegetablemould) one quarter; and 
two-year old cow's or sheep’s dung one quarter. Mix 
these well together with the hand, keeping a strict look 
out for wire-worms and slugs, and destroying every one 
as soon as it is found. When the compost is ready, take 
a few plants out of the frame and set them on the 
potting-bench, then examine each plant in succession, 
clear away all decayed leaves, and if there appears to be 
any worms in the pot, turn the ball carefully out of it, 
and pick out the worms, replace it equally carefully in 
the pot. and remove a portion of the top old soil without 
disturbing any of the roots; replace it with the fresh 
compost, filling the pot to within half an inch of the 
top. Press the new soil rather firmly round the stem of 
each plant. Proceed thus till the whole are finished. 
Then wash the entire inside of the frame or pit, stages 
and all. If it is a pit whitewash the walls. Turn the 
light upside down and wash off all the dirt from the 
glass. Then give a coating of fresh dry ashes on the 
surface. Your frame or pit will now be in a clean sweet 
condition to receive the plants. Give each a gentle 
watering to settle the fresh top-dressing, and when they 
are dry replace them in their situation for blooming, 
giving them the usual attention of protection from 
frost, air on all favourable occasions, and the due 
quantity of water. T. Appleby. 
THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
The winter has been thus far remarkably mild and damp, 
so much so, indeed with us in Devonshire, that many of 
the beautiful scarlet varieties of Rhododendrons have 
been for weeks in full bloom in our American garden, and 
other places, without the least protection of any kind ; 
and so have several varieties of the Camelia, and other 
spring flowering plants in the flower-garden. Some of the 
Peach-trees, too, against the open wall are in full bloom, 
and vegetation of all kinds is in the same forward state. 
Early Cabbages, planted for coming in in April, are all 
turned into good firm-hearted Cabbages. Cauliflowers 
have been abundant all the winter in open quarters; 
and even a quantity of odds-and-ends of plants, cleared 
from the seed-beds late in August, which were planted 
with other things thickly on wheat ground for sheep 
feed, have grown all through the winter, and are at this 
time producing good sized flowers. 
Peas and Beans planted earlier than we have recom¬ 
mended, will no doubt be found much too forward to 
withstand the weather which we may naturally expect 
within the next ten or twelve weeks; and as the object 
of a little seed is not much, it is advisable to sow again 
wherever the Peas and Beans do appear too forward to 
withstand cold cutting winds, severe night frosts, and 
glaring sunny mornings. A drill can be drawn within 
a few inches of each row, and more sown at once. Those 
sown late in December, and through the last month, will 
do well, and may easily be protected by sticking early, 
and dredging with dry dust about their shanks of an 
evening when there is any appearance of frost. The 
present is a good time for sowing a full crop of the 
second early and Marrow peas. 
Parsnips, if not already trenched out, should at once 
be attended to; for if not trenched previous to their 
growth commencing, they will not be wholesome to eat. 
Plant also, for seed, Carrots and Beet, Turnips and 
Swedes, if not already done. A few of the truest aud best in 
quality of Savoys, Borecole, or any other favourite variety 
of Kale, should be set apart for seed; and if not conve¬ 
nient for them to stand for seed in the quarter where 
they are growing, they may be carefully removed to any 
obscure corner for that purpose. Onions may also be 
planted for seed, and the autumn sown be transplanted. 
Small bulbs also of the two-bladed and silver-skinned 
Onions should be planted thickly in drills for early spring 
bulbing. Spanish and Tripoli varieties may be sown on a 
little heat to forward for transplanting; the two-bladed j 
may be sown on a wai'm border, and protected with j 
straw, fern, houghs, or furze, for early spring drawing. 
The strongest plants of the early Lettuce should now 
he planted on warm borders, sloping banks, &c.; and if 
a little dry dust can be afforded about their stems, it is 
a good preventive against canker,—a destructive disease 
which frequently occurs in wet seasons. 
Parsley may now he sown; and the most curled and 
perfect plants in the rows now in use should he marked 
for seed. Sow also a row or two of round or Flanders 
Spinach. 
Framing. — Asparagus may now be placed on slight 
kindly hot-beds, sheltered by bundles of refuse primings 
or other materials, and hooped and protected with mats 
without glass. The linings of Cucumbers and Melons 
