THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
! Jo8 
[March (5. 
During the growing season they ought to he abundantly 
supplied with water, both at the root and top; mode¬ 
rately at first, till the new shoots have attained a foot in 
height, at least such as grow to two, three, or more feet; 
the more dwarf growing lands may have a more 
abundant supply of water as the bulbs advance to their 
usual size. During this growing season the syringe must 
be used freely ; in very hot weather they may be syringed 
morning and evening. Keep the air also well supplied 
with moisture by flooding the paths, wetting the pipes 
and walls every day. The hygrometer, an instrument 
used to denote the quantity of moisture in the air, will 
be found an useful instrument, and ought to be in every 
orchid house. The temperature, when the plants are 
growing, should be at the maximum 70° by night, and 
85° by day. When they are in flower, they will last 
much longer if removed out of the moist hothouse into 
a cooler and drier one, but as soon as the bloom is over 
they should be removed into the growing house again. 
As soon as the pseudo-bulbs are fully formed the 1 
season of rest should commence; the quantity of water j 
should be gradually reduced, the air should be kept 
drier, and the heat moderated. This, if done judiciously 
and slowly, will gradually harden the shoots, and form 
the germs of the future flower buds. If they are kept 
growing too long the shoots will be elongated but 
weakened, and the flower buds will be changed into 
wood buds, which will, of course, disappoint the intention 
of the cultivator. About the month of November, if the 
desire for resting has been accomplished, all water at 
the root, and moisture in the air, should be entirely 
withheld; and this season may be prolonged two, three, 
or even four months. Where several plants of one kind 
are in the collection, the season of blooming may be still 
further lengthened, by placing one or two plants in a 
greater heat, and keeping the rest in a state of quiescence. 
Those in heat will then flower early, and the rest may be 
brought into heat in succession; and every year, if the 
same plants are started into flower at the same time, the 
habit of blooming early or late will be induced, and so 
the season of bloom be prolonged for several months. 
Though the natural season for Dendrobiums blooming 
is from March to April, yet by judicious resting it may 
be delayed till May and June. It was by such prolonga¬ 
tion of the season of rest that the exhibitors of Dendrobium 
nohile, and other fine species, were enabled to keep their 
plants from blooming till the grand exhibition of the 
London Horticultural and Royal Botanical Societies took 
place in May and June ; and we have no doubt the same 
exhibitors have their plants just now in a state of com¬ 
plete rest. Of that we had ocular proof a few days ago; 
we had then the pleasure of looking over tire grand col¬ 
lection of orchids belonging to S. Rucker, Esq., at Wands¬ 
worth, and observed six or eight large healthy plants of 
Dendrobium nohile, D. cccruleseens, and D. clensijiorum, 
perfectly healthy in a common greenhouse! And Mr. 
Mylam, the excellent grower of them, said they were 
placed there for tire express purpose of prolonging their 
rest, so as to bring them into bloom at the very season 
when the exhibitions were to take place. This is a 
lesson worth conning, even to the growers who have no 
intention to exhibit, but who cultivate these charming 
flowers for the gratification only of themselves and their 
friends. And as several of the finest Dendrobes are 
easily increased, either by division, or by the young 
plants readily and frequently formed on the old psuedo- 
bulbs, no cultivator need be without several duplicates 
of several species, which he may, when strong enough, 
flower in succession, by prolonging the season of rest 
for part of his plants. T. Appleby. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Ranunculuses. —It is not so well known to private 
: growers as it ought to be, that to succeed well in growing 
these flowers well, and to bloom them freely, the soil 
about them should be close and firm, almost approaching 
to hardness. If the bed lias been rightly prepared, and 
the flower planted according to the instructions given in 
former numbers, all will be well. When the tops begin 
to push through the soil, it will be of the greatest 
importance to tread the soil down very firm between the 
rows, and if any symptoms of cracking in the soil appear, 
the surface should be stirred to prevent it. Protection 
from sharp late frosts which may yet occur should be 
given, by covering whenever such weather is likely to take 
place. Dahlias continue to propagate. Carnations : 
forward plants may now be placed in their blooming 
pots, and kept under shelter from heavy rains and cold 
sleet. For the treatment of other florists’ flowers see 
preceding numbers. T. Appleby. 
THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
The season being thus far advanced, with but little 
of either frosts or cutting winds, we shall soon begin to 
find how much requires daily to be done during the 
present month; and particularly must we remember 
to be prepared against the strong winds that are to be 
exjiected at this season. March is generally one of the 
finest months in the whole year for sweetening and 
pulverizing the soil, which should, as previously recom¬ 
mended, be trenched, dug, forked, and surface-stirred 
continually; and it is an excellent system at this season, 
where lime is at hand, to dredge the earth before 
trenching, &c., with some newly-slacked : this being an 
excellent preventive, when stirred amongst the earth, 
against the depredations of slugs, and the hatching of 
their eggs. 
Early Cauliflowers , and those recently planted out, 
as well as early Peas and Lettuce, may be assisted^ and 
kept very healthy and hardy, by the application of dry 
dust dredged about them. 
Potatoes that have been some time planted, should 
have the earth’s surface well harrowed; but, previous to 
the operation, two or three cwt. of salt, per acre, would 
prove very beneficial. 
Sweet Marjoram, Basil, Capsicum, Chilis, and Toma¬ 
toes, should now be sown in heat. Borage may be 
sown, and also the Walcheren Brocoli. This last-named 
variety, if obtained true, and sown at various times 
from now till July, will furnish the table nearly through¬ 
out the year. Cabbage and Cauliflowers should be sown 
and planted liberally, and those growing under hand¬ 
glasses should be kept well surface-stirred, the hand¬ 
glasses raised in due time, and the cavity blocked with 
the surrounding earth, so as to form a basin about the 
plants, into which a small portion of half-decayed 
manure or leaves may be placed for mulching, and upon 
this liberal soakings of tepid liquid-manure may be 
applied without fear of surface-binding the soil. 
Sow also Horn Carrots, taking advantage of every 
dry or frosty morning to get the soil in a pulverized 
healthy condition for the main crops to be sown a 
fortnight or three weeks hence. The Onion, too, should 
be sown in full crop, whenever the soil is in a good 
condition for the purpose, and dry fine weather prevails. 
Parsnips and Parsley should be sown on the same 
principle; and Potato planting, if not already brought 
to a close, should be done forthwith. 
The herb plantations should also now be putin order. 
Tarragon being an early grower,—shoots three inches in 
length should be pulled up, with some of their fibres 
attached to them, and planted six inches apart each 
way. Sage should be pegged down and layered, and 
the last year's young plants bedded out. Pennyroyal 
should be planted in a damp shady situation. Radishes, 
