380 
lions ; the first of them being the true Blood Roots, with 
smooth Howers; the second having woolly covered tlowers, 
like Anigozanthus just mentioned ; and the third section, to | 
which Barbacenia belongs, have the leaves much after the 
manner of the Pine apple and other Bromelworts ; so that, 
in the absence of the lily-like flowers in our wood cut, the 
plant could not be distinguished from a Pitcaimia. In South i 
Africa there is a race of dwarf tree Aloes, branching by forks, 
or dichotomous, Haworth’s Khipodendron, and on the oppo¬ 
site coast in the Brazils, are a similar race of dwarf tree or 
perennial Lilies, as Martins calls them, named Vellozias, 
which also branch in two’s of equal size, having their leaves | 
in tufts at the tops of these gouty arms. Imagine an African I 
Tree-Aloe, with a stem as high as a man, and as thick round 
as his body, branched out at the top to the diameter of from 
ten to twenty feet, and you have the image of these tree 
lilies, the Vellozias, to which our Barbacenia s comes nearest 
in affinity and also in stature in some instances. The Bar- 
bacenias in our gardens give no clue to the stature some of 
them attain in South America. Sir Robert Schomburck met 
with a Barbacenia in British Guiana from ten to twelve feet 
high, and he named it Alexandrinm. 
A selection of South American Barbacenias and Vellozias, 
or tree Lilies, with the New Holland Blmcoas and Anigo- 
zanthi, so much alike as not easily to be distinguished from 
each other, with the Conoslyls from the same quarter, toge¬ 
ther with a selection from the allied Bromelworts, such as 
Pitcairnias, JEchmeas, Tillandsias, Ouzmannias, &c., would j 
form an interesting group for a small house. The Australian 
part to be kept at the coolest end in winter, and turned out 
amongst rockwork, in the front of the house, during the 
summer; with which, also, the different species of dwarf 
Tree-Aloes from the Cape would well associate. Without 
going to the expense of providing for the Vellozias and their 
tropical allies, we often wonder that the more hardy race 
thus pointed out have never become fashionable in this 
country for turning out into geometrical small gar-dens, 
where they and all around would harmonise so well. 
Barbacenia Rogierii came to England, in 1850, from Mr. 
Van Houtte, of Ghent. It is probably a native of South 
America. Leaves, like those of the Jonquil, narrow and 
pointed, imbricated, that is, closely lapping over each other 
like tiles ; edges finely toothed. Flower stem shorter than 
the leaves, pimpled near the top, single flowered; corolla 
lobes deeply two-cleft, pale claret colour. Propagated from 
sucker-like side shoots, and thriving in a moist stove in turfy 
peat and loam.—B. J. 
THE FRUIT-GARDEN. 
The Peach-house. —Those who possess a luxury of 
this kind will be watching with some anxiety the swell¬ 
ing of the young fruit; and at the same time their atten¬ 
tion will be drawn to the necessity of what is termed 
disbudding —a proceeding which, with all healthy trees, 
becomes an imperative course. And why imperative ? 
the beginner may ask. The direct answer is, merely 
because the trees produce too many shoots The space 
assigned to artistically trained trees is not sufficient for 
that due exposure to light of every shoot which is requi¬ 
site, in order to render the tree fertile in the ensuing and 
subsequent years. 
Although intending at this moment to furnish remarks 
principally applicable to Peach-trees in a forcing-house, 
yet much of the practice will equally apply to those on 
the walls out of doors. 
As has been before observed, the process termed dis¬ 
budding is one which must be performed with caution. 
The immediate effect of disbudding is, generally, to 
increase the strength of the remaining shoots for a short 
period. This, however, is done at the expense of vigour 
of constitution. Such may not bo immediately percep¬ 
tible in young or free-growing trees; but in old ones, or 
those which have carried heavy crops, the case is dif¬ 
ferent. Indeed, it would not be a difficult matter to 
destroy or to completely break up the constitution of tho 
| latter by a heavy disbudding performed at one opera¬ 
[Mauch 20. 
tion. Therefore, let the beginner of this practice pro¬ 
ceed cautiously. 
Tho following may be considered safe maxims to guide 
tho inexperienced;— 
1st. Commence disbudding as soon as the shoots can 
be distinguished. 
2nd. Perform the operation twice a week until the 
object is gained. 
3rd. In all doubtful cases be content with merely 
pinching off the terminal point when the young shoot is 
a couple of inches in length. 
In commenting on these maxims, it must be borne in 
mind, that all shoots removed from trees during their 
development, and consequently before they can have 
performed the office of assimilation, are a sure present 
loss to the tree. Here, then, is a reason why, as in 
Vines, superfluous spray should be removed or pinched 
betimes. Since, however, there is a constant recipro¬ 
city of some kind going on between tho roots and the 
branches, whilst trees are in a growing state, it is evident 
that a severe disbudding must, for a while, tend to dis¬ 
turb that reciprocity, and to paralyze, in some degree, 
the functions of the tree. Thus it will be seen why twice 
a week is recommended; and this we think safe and 
necessary advice. The pinching or stopping of doubtful 
shoots was before alluded to. We speak not hero of 
stopping the over-luxuriant shoots or robbers; this is, in 
general, a subsequent affair. Old practitioners know at 
a glance what shoots to disbud, what to pinch or stop, 
and what are indispensable as to the next year’s crop; 
as, also, tho repairs of any deficiencies which may occur 
in the form and character of the tree. Not so the ama¬ 
teur ; for although the whole treatment seems so plain 
to a practical man, we have been repeatedly astonished 
I to observe the difficulties which appear to arise in their 
attempts to distinguish the shoots. Indeed, it is so with 
many gardening processes; those who cannot compre¬ 
hend are apt to think the whole an empirical proceed¬ 
ing. It must be remembered, however, that it is one 
thing to comprehend principles in the abstract, and 
another to apply them to details successfully. 
The first proceeding with strong and healthy Peach 
and Nectarine trees is to rub off what are termed “ foro- 
j sight” shoots. These are abundantly produced in most 
| cases, and arc readily known by then- generally project- 
! ing from the tree at nearly a right angle; whereas those 
j best adapted for future bearing proceed almost in a 
training position at once. The foresight shoots, indeed, 
merely receive their character from circumstances, and 
would speedily, on a standard tree in a state of nature, 
make an effort to become future leaders. Such, there¬ 
fore, are greedy monopolists, and detract much from the 
more useful energies of the tree bearing wood. To be 
sure, if their points be pinched off when about three 
inches in length, they are capable of furnishing good 
bearing wood, at least in the succeeding summer, and of 
sustaining a healthy fabric in the tree; and wherever 
any doubts exist as to the propriety of retaining such, as 
a nursery of future shoots, by all means let the shoots 
have the benefit of that doubt, and retain them, pinch¬ 
ing off their points immediately they have developed 
some three or four leaves. Those for which no real 
occasion exists must be at once rubbed away; and now a 
thinning out of even the proper or bearing shoots must 
take place. 
Two or three points must influence the selection. 
1 he first we will suggest is, that every precaution be 
taken to secure successional wood at the lower portions 
of the tree. Almost every young shoot, therefore, which 
is situated lowest on any given branch must be carefully 
preserved; and if it should show signs of overtaking 
the shoot next ahead, then the best practice is to pinch 
off the point of the lowest shoot, and it thenceforward 
becomes a nursery or shoot in reserve. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
