April 8. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
21 
shrivels from the side of the pot, trust to no watering, 
but set the plant with its pot for five minutes in a pail 
of water, and then allow it to drain before replacing it 
in the saucer; a large plant, in such circumstances, 
would be better of several hours. Lastly, just now, un¬ 
less during the four hottest months of the season, let the 
water be as warm, or warmer, than the temperature of 
the room. 
5th. Ventilation. —The breeze, so grateful to the in¬ 
valid, is also grateful to plants; hence they will rejoice 
in the window being opened in spring and autumn, and 
being set outside in summer. In winter, unless in ex¬ 
treme cases, they will obtain a sufficiency of change of 
air by the opening of doors, and the draught in the 
chimney. This will be especially the case if 
6th. The position of the plants is duly attended to .— 
When plants are growing they cannot have too much 
light in winter. If placed close to the window, they will 
suffer little there for the want of air during the day, the 
light will counteract the drawing effects of the heat of 
the sitting-room. Night is the period of danger. First, 
during the evening, when the temperature is high, and 
from the doors being long shut, the air is so impure; at 
that period the plants should lia^e the coolest and 
airiest position. Secondly, during the night, when the 
excitement of the high temperature of a sitting-room 
makes them more liable to feel the effects of frosts. In 
severe weather, if set upon a table in the centre of the 
room, they will always, or mostly so, be safe. For ease 
of moving, instead of having plants on the window-sill, 
we would recommend a table, or stage, easily moved. 
Not only would this be an advantage in winter, but in 
summer the plants could be moved to the window morn¬ 
ing and evening, and then, by moving them back during 
the day, the bloom would be preserved, aud no necessity 
exist for shading. Between this, and the dawdling sys¬ 
tem of placing plants on the floor, there can be no com¬ 
parison. 
7th. and lastly just now. Temperature and Atmo¬ 
spheric Moisture. —Plants that will not stand frost, are 
in general best suited for window-plants, as hardy plants 
are apt to become weak. The hardier these border 
plants are kept, however, the better they will do. The 
dry atmosphere produced from fires in living rooms is 
one of the greatest evils that plants in windows have to 
contend with, especially during cold weather. The best 
mode of neutralising this, is just what promotes health 
and cleanliness — namely, frequent damping of the 
foliage This will farther be promoted by covering the 
surface of the pots with damp moss, and better still, by 
plunging the pots altogether iu such a medium. 
R. Fish. 
CULTURE OF THE ROSE FOR EXHIBITION. 
(Continued from paye 8.) 
Treatment after the Buds beoin to Grow.— 
The buds having fairly taken, the shoots of the stocks 
should be shortened-in considerably; and the ties slack¬ 
ened to allow the branches in which they have been 
inserted to swell, without being compressed. If allowed 
to remain tight too long they are apt to break off close 
j to the bud, aud then there is great danger the buds so 
l situate will either perish, or be blown off when strong 
winds prevail. Till the buds have grown to a consider¬ 
able strength there ought to bo a portion of stock left 
above them. Four or five inches will be sufficient, and 
will be found useful for a time to secure the young shoot 
of the bud to, if the stock happens to grow upwards. 
! When the shoot from the inserted bud has fairly taken 
possession of the stock, these pieces of the stock beyond 
it should be cut cleau off This should be done the 
second year at the furthest; but if the stock is small it 
may be done earlier, especially where tho Manetti 
stock is used. 
Proragation by Cuttings. —Though Roses are gene¬ 
rally propagated by buds, yet they may be easily propa¬ 
gated by cuttings, but more especially the Bourbon, 
China, and Tea-scented varieties. For growing in pots 
this is perhaps the best method ; at least, it is useful, 
aud, therefore, we will briefly describe the way it is done. 
Tho best cuttings are made from the young shoots of the 
same year’s growth half-ripened; consequently the time 
to put them in depends upon when that takes place. 
It is a good plan to place such as are wished to be in¬ 
creased in a gentle heat early in spring, and by that 
means they are ripened earlier, and the cuttings are 
sooner ready to be ma.de, and, therefore, will root, and 
make good plants before the winter sets in. When the 
cuttings are in a fit state prepare the pots to receive 
them : the most convenient size arc what are called 
about London 48’s. : these are about four-and-a-half 
inches across; they should be quite clean. Drain them 
well and fill them, to within an inch of the top, 
with a compost of sandy loam, peat, and leaf-mould, in 
equal parts; then fill the remaining inch with either 
pure silver sand or clean-washed river sand ; give a 
gentle watering to settle it firm, aud then proceed to 
make tho cuttings. Cut off a few at once only, aud into 
lengths, with two buds to each. Reject the very young 
tender tops. Dress them by cutting off the bottom leaf, 
leaving the upper one entire. With a small, smooth, 
rather blunt stick, make a hole in the sand, close to the 
side of the pot, and put the cutting into it with the leaf 
pointing inwards, pressing the sand firmly to it. Pro¬ 
ceed thus till tho pot is filled, then give a second gentle 
watering, and it will cause the sand to run into and fill 
up the holes. When as many pots are filled as are 
wanted, allow them to stand on the bench for an hour to 
dry the leaves ; then place them in a gentle hotbed, or 
under a handglass in a propagating house. Shade them 
from the light and sun for a week or two, and keep them 
close for that time ; they will soon form calluses, or 
swellings, round the base of each, and when that is so, 
the cuttings will do with much less shading, and the 
light will assist them greatly to push forth roots. As 
soon as these are formed, pot them off directly singly 
into three-inch pots; replace them in the frame or under 
liandlights for a short time, till they make fresh growth ; 
then gradually accustom them to the full light and air, 
and when the pots are middling full of roots repot 
them, and then they are established plants. 
Cuttings of the commoner China, and other similar 
roses, may be struck easily if cut into lengths and laid 
in in rows across a narrow border, leaving only the top 
buds above the surface, on the north side of a low hedge 
or wall. The time to put them in is in early spring, 
and they will shoot and make tolerable good plants 
before the end of autumn ; then take them up, pot and 
place them in a cold frame till spring, when they may 
be planted out in the garden, or be repotted to flower in 
pots. 
Section 5.—Winter Management. —This naturally 
divides itself into two heads:—First, treatment of those 
planted out; and, secondly, treatment of those in pots. 
In the autumn, when the leaves are fallen, entirely clean 
them away, aud cover the surface of the ground with 
short rotten manuro; with a three-pronged fork work it 
in amongst the soil, leaving the latter as rough as pos¬ 
sible. See to tho stakes belonging to the standards; if 
they are decayed at the bottom, renew them, or the 
winds of winter will blow them about and injure 
them much. If a tank of liquid-manure is handy, a 
good dose or two of the contents will be useful. Pro¬ 
tection should be given to the more tender Bourbon, 
China, and Tea-scented varieties. Perhaps the best is 
some fronds of common fern tied slightly iu amongst 
