April 22. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
55 
KING’S OR CORY’S SAFETY HIVE. 
I have never seen any notice taken in The Cottage Gar- 
dener of a liive which I have adopted, and which I mean to 
use exclusively. It is here called Cory’s Hive, but invented, 
I believe, by Mr. King, of Littlebury, near Saffron Walden. 
For the information of my brother bee-keepers, I send 
you one of Mr. Cory’s descriptive papers, with his address, 
and also an account of the produce of a liive, stocked 1850. 
May 22nd, 1851, bees let into drawer No. 1. June 2nd, 
moved drawer—but suppose too late—as they swarmed June 
3rd, and seemed to forsake the drawers until the 5th, when 
they were very busy. June 11th, they threw off a strong 
cast, but notwithstanding this great drain upon their 
numbers, I obtained upwards of 20 lbs. of the purest honey 
without the loss of a single bee. 
The swarm of June 3rd was admitted into drawer No. 1. 
June 18th, moved on 22nd and 24th, and produced 15 lbs. 
of virgin honey. Thus 1 have obtained 35 lbs. of honey, 
and two additional stocks, from the parent hive. 
I have several more of the same description, but send 
you the most favourable account. I ought to add, that Sir. 
King has this year produced some improvement upon this 
plan, which is, I believe, registered, but not having seen it 
in work, I am unable to speak to its superiority.—A Country 
Rector. 
(Messrs. Cory and Son, Trumpington-street, Cambridge, 
have obliged us with the following woodcut, and particulars 
of this hive :— 
“ This hive is so constructed as to protect the bees from 
the severity of the weather, the sides, back, and front, being 
hollow. It may be stocked in the same manner as the straw 
hive. By observing the bees through the glass windows, it 
may be ascertained when the hive is nearly full. Before it 
becomes too much crowded, pull out the slides to admit the 
bees to the drawer in the middle of the hive ; and as soon 
as this is about half full of bees and comb, put in the slides 
again, and pull out the drawer about three inches Then 
place the protector under it, and continue to pull out the 
drawer, keeping the protector close to the hive, and close to 
the bottom of the drawer, till the openings in the sides of 
the drawer are safe within the compass of the protector : by 
so doing, not a single bee will escape to cause any annoy¬ 
ance. When this is done, take out one of the top drawers 
and place it in the middle, where you took the other from; 
then put the one containing the bees at the top, keeping the 
protector close to the hive while putting it in, taking care 
now to draw the slides belonging to both. The bees will 
not begin in the top drawers as soon as in the middle one; 
but having once begun their work, they will carry it on, and 
begin in the middle again directly. When this is about half 
full, it may be removed as before. When a drawer is full, 
the same process is to be followed as in removing the other 
drawers :—it is to be carried to a distance, and after letting 
them remain fifteen or twenty minutes, tap the sides of the 
drawers with the handle of a knife or a small stick a few 
minutes, and then let the bees escape. You will have honey 
of the purest kind: the combs can be cut from the top of 
the drawer by passing a knife along the small opening left 
for that purpose on one side of the drawer.”) 
MANGOLD WURTZEL AND CARROTS IN 
ALTERNATE ROWS. 
As the subject of mixed cropping has been brought under 
the notice of the readers of The Cottage Gardener, I beg j 
to refer them to a paper on the above subject in part 2, vol. 
xii., of the Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society, for a 
detail of the successful experiment of growing mangold 
wurtzel and carrots in alternate rows, as tried by Mr. 
Thompson, steward of the Duke of Beaufort; and, on his 
recommendation, by Mr. Pusey. Each grew a greater weight 
of mangold per acre on the alternate plan than in con¬ 
tinuous rows, and had, in addition, a fine crop of carrots, 
Mr. Fusey’s weighing eight tons per acre. He remarks :— 
“ It is certainly a most ingenious contrivance thus to inter¬ 
mix two plants: one with broad leaves that draw, it would 
seem, much nourishment from the air, the other burrowing 
deep in the soil for food. It realizes curiously the singular 
Greek proverb, that ‘ the half is more than the wholeand 
may be described shortly as a method of not only improving 
the mangold crop, but of getting eight tons of carrots for 
nothing.” I am trying the experiment on an acre of 
ground, and will, if you wish, give you the result at the 
proper time. J. A. Briggs. 
[We shall be much obliged by the communication.—E d. 
C. G.] 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
Verbenas and Geraniums (J. S.). —These will not thrive well in a 
clayey soil. You should procure some light loam and vegetable mould, 
mix them together, and put a good shovel full in with each plant at the 
time of planting. You ask for the names of six of each, suitable for your 
clayey soil; there are none suitable, but with the above preparation the 
following will do tolerably well. Verbenas: Defiance, scarlet; Em¬ 
peror of China, crimson ; Purple Prince , purple ; St. Margaret, 
salmon; White Perfection, white; Mrs. Mills, blue. Geraniums: 
Tom Thumb ; Lucia rosea; Unique; Lady Flora Hastings; Mangle's 
silver-edged; Compacta, or Dropmore. 
Distances for Transplanting Annuals {A New Subscriber).— 
Put Sanvitulia procumbens, six inches apart every way ; Eschscholtzia, 
nine inches ; Erysimum jierofskianum, six inches; Lobelia gi'ucilis, six 
inches ; Lobelia rumosa, three inches ; Convolvulus minor, ten inches ; 
mixed Clarkia, four inches ; Saponuria calabrica, nine inches. The 
Erysimum cannot be trained so low as six or eight inches ; with perse¬ 
verance you might keep it to a foot, or rather more. The Groundsel will 
not do at all, with any of the Clarkias. See that you have mixed only the 
white and purple Clarkia, no other Clarkia is worth growing in flower-beds, 
Pullet not Laying (M. A.). —Your pullet that repairs to the nest 
daily without laying should be well watched ; she may be in the habit of 
dropping soft eggs. If so, she should have lime-rubbish and oyster-shells 
broken up, with generous feeding. If she appears to be too fat, she 
might have an aperient; if too poor, meat and other stimulants. Food 
given warm every morning will urge a sluggish layer, but we have never 
found this treatment necessary with Cochin-China fowls. If she is a 
good pullet, do not give her up, but rather report progress again.— 
Anstcr Bonn. 
Coronilla glauca not Flowertng ( Eliza). —You have indulged 
the young plants too much. The drainage and the roots being all right, 
you need not be afraid of what the cold winds have done to some of the 
tops—that often happens. We have seen this plant cast many of its best 
leaves without any apparent cause. Confine them at the roots this 
season—that is, do not pot them till July, and then only to one size 
larger; but allow them plenty of water; that will cause them to bloom 
freely all next winter, or early in the spring. 
Diseased Cucumber Vines (A Young Beginner ).—Your cucumbers 
have evidently suffered by air not being admitted in time; the plants 
being shut up in a close, hot atmosphere, perspired too much—hence the 
yeasty-looking matter you complain of, as covering them. Keeping 
rather close, and partial shading for a few days, will generally bring them 
round, but if your disease arise from other causes than the above, there 
is reason to fear it is the one which proved so fatal in some places two or 
three years ago. A transparent glutinous substance exudes from the 
fruit in such quantities as to render it quite unfit for use. Caustic 
matter, as lime, soot, &c., used rather freely in the compost they grew 
in, seemed the only thing to check it. If your plants be so alfected, 
pray write to us again. 
Striking Scarlet Geranium Cuttings for early Summer 
Blooming (Y. Y.). —You are too late now'. By inserting them now they 
will bloom at the end of summer, but they will have too much disposition 
to produce leaves if planted out. Kept in pots during the summer, or 
lifted in autumn, they will make fine early plants for next summer, and 
bloom better, as w'ell as be larger plants, than those struck out-of-doors 
in July and August. You may give them a very slight bottom-heat as 
you can afford it, but they would do well in a cold frame in this hot | 
weather, but we cannot depend on such continuous sun. Let the cut j 
ends dry some hours before inserting them in moistish soil, and sprinkle 
the foliage in preference to watering the soil for a fortnight or three 
weeks to come. 
Bulbs done Flowering {Hyacinthus).— The only way to secure 
future usefulness from them is to take as much care of the foliage as you 
have done of the flowers. The leaves must receive no check until they 
wither, either from dryness or cold, &c. The matter will shortly be more 
