May 27. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
141. 
Payne’s Cottage Hive (It. Wilson).— Write to J. H. Payne, Esq., 
Bury St. Edmunds. 
Cayenne Fumigation. —In answer to our query, Mr. C. Langley 
says, relative to his failure reported at page 106 —“ I did not use capsi¬ 
cums when I tried my experiment; I purchased cayenne pepper at a 
respectable grocer’s. Allow me, also, to correct a mistake—it was not 
eight ounces of tobacco I used, but four ounces.” We think that until 
Mr. Langley has used capsicum pods he must not condemn the practice. 
Egg-eating Hens {An Inquirer). —Any hen that lays soft or shell¬ 
less eggs will eat them occasionally. Cure her of laying soft eggs, and 
you prevent the other evil. We have had, at one time, a whole hen-yard 
subject to this soft-egg laying. We reduced their food one-half, both in 
quantity and richness, and the soft-egg laying ceased. In almost all 
instances, if they have not a deficient supply of calcareous or chalky 
matters, it arises from the over-cxcitemcnt occasioned by excessive 
feeding. 
Garden Fork (A Subscriber).— If you buy our No. 25, you will there 
| find a drawing and description of the best kind of garden fork, but we 
j would have the points shaped like those shown at p. 80, of the present 
I volume, if the soil were light. 
Sundries {E. M.). —We never heard before that when ivy reaches the 
top of a tree it kills it, but rarely sooner. We never knew such a catas- 
! trophe occasioned by ivy until it had so covered all the tree’s foliage that 
it had its functions stopped by the exclusion of light. This was after the 
! ivy had reached the top certainly. Our correspondent also wishes to 
I know, “what is the difference between the dry and wet bulbs in Mason’s 
! hygrometer in a dwelling-house, which is tolerably dry? or rather, I 
I should sa) r , what is the ordinary range of this difference ? I speak of 
the actual difference observed. What is the highest and what the lowest 
figure you have ever observed ? ” Your other queries next week. 
Cucumbers {J. K .).—“ The soil being very good,” with “ plenty of 
bottom heat,” is enough to account for the gum-spots on your cucum¬ 
bers. Give all the air and light you can without chilling them. 
Vine Syringing (W . IF.).—We never syringe the leaves at all. You 
will find quite enough moisture by watering the path well in the middle 
of the day, and at night, before shutting up. Give plenty of air. 
Covent-Garden Prices {A Constant Reader , fyc.). —We gave the 
report as early as we could. We cannot give prices. They arc totally 
deceiving as published by others. 
Annuals Sown in Turf. — IF. C. C. says :—“ Allow me, while writing, 
to thank your correspondent Mr. Beaton for suggesting the sowing 
annuals on pieces of turf, and keeping in a frame. I have acted on it 
this year, and am delighted with the result; they are not nearly the 
trouble of sowing in the old-fashioned way, as you only sow one patch of 
each, instead of several, and, when they are ready, cut small pieces off', 
and plant a patch where you like about the garden. I did not sow mine 
till Good Friday, and have no doubt shall have some of them in flower 
by the end of the month, when had they been sown in the open border, 
most likely, with the long drought we have had, they would have scarcely 
been out of the ground at present.” The grub eating the buds of your 
roses is “the worm i’ the bud” of Shakespere, called by naturalists 
either Argyrotosa Bergmaimiana , or Tortrix rosana . There is no 
known remedy. Sec our No. 34, page 86. 
Pipe-clay Labels. —Will A Paj'son's Wife oblige us with the full 
direction where these may be obtained, at Gloucester or elsewhere, in 
wholesale quantities. 
CALENDAR FOR JUNE, 
ORCHID HOUSE. 
Aerides, Saccolabiums, Vandas, and other allied Indian plants, 
will now be growing freely, and will require abundance of water, both at 
the roots and over the tops. Any on blocks that are growing freely 
should have some moss tied round the block to retain moisture a longer 
time. Air should now be liberally given almost every day, unless cold, 
wet days should intervene. The air openings should be so constructed as 
not to allow a rush of cold wind over the tops of the plants. Baskets : 
the plants in them will be making their new growths, and will require to 
be dipped in tepid water at least once a week, or even oftener in very hot 
weather. Blocks : syringe twice a day, in the morning by seven o’clock, 
and in the afternoon about four. Catesetums, Cyrtopodiums, 
Cycnociies, and their like, give plenty of water at the root, taking care 
that none lodges amongst the young leaves for any length of time. 
Dendrobiums : many of this fine family will, towards the end of the 
month, have finished their growth. They should then be placed in a 
cooler house, and less water given to them. Heat: the natural heat of 
the atmosphere out-of-doors renders less fire necessary. During the day, 
unless in cold, wet weather, none will be needed, a little every night will 
| yet be useful, especially in the Indian-house. Insects will breed rapidly 
i during this warm season ; every means must be resorted to, to keep them 
I under. Moisture : the air of the house should be kept full of moisture 
during this month. Many of the roots will be dangling in the air, 
I sucking up, as it were, the moisture in it. Moss on the outside of the 
pots, and on the leaves, will accumulate greatly with the heat and the 
moisture, the pots must be washed, and the leaves sponged frequently, 
to open the breathing-pores of the latter. Offsets on the stems of Den¬ 
drobiums should be all taken off, to encourage growth from the bottom ; 
they may be made plants of if required. Plants in flower will last 
much longer if removed into a cooler house. Syringe : this instrument 
will, during the month, be in constant requisition. In using it, let the I 
water from it fall gently upon the plants, imitating a gentle shower of I 
rain. Siiade must be applied during bright burning sunshine. Water, 
apply liberally to all growing plants, but be sure and use soft or rain 
water. A slate tank is the best thing to contain it; iron vessels should 1 
by all means be avoided. Weeds, destroy constantly ; but such plants as 
ferns, heaths, except creeping species, that come up amongst the rough 
peat, may be allowed to grow, they will shade the roots and serve as in¬ 
dicator, when they flag, to show that the compost is dry and requires 
water. T. Appleby. 
PLANT STOVE. 
Aciiimenes : those early potted will now be in flower ; supply them 
freely with water; repot the last batch to flower late. A, pictu put thickly 
into wide shallow pans, and grow on to flower at Christmas. Amaryllis, 
going out of bloom, and their bulbs ripening, place in a cold frame, and 
give no water to induce them to rest. Air, give liberally all day, and in 
hot, close nights leave a little on. Apiielandra aurantiaca, grow on 
in a hot pit to bloom in winter. Baskets, where used, keep moist by 
dipping and syringing frequently. Baric-beds, renew, if the heat 
declines. Cuttings, put in if required; pot oft' such as have struck 
root. Climbers, on the rafters, train, and keep within bounds. In pots, 
train round the trellises ; attend to them constantly, or they will soon get 
out of order.^FRANCiscEAS done flowering, place in a cold frame to rest. 
Gardenia, treat in a similar way. Gesneras, repot young plants, put 
in cuttings of. Gloxinias, the same; every leaf will make plants if 
put in as cuttings. Heat, keep under, no fire heat is required now. 
Insects of all kinds, destroy diligently', especially the red spider and 
mealybug. Ixoras, the large specimens will now be in flower; keep 
them moist at the root, but refrain from syringing over the bloom ; 
young plants repot, and tie out young specimens. Moisture in the 
air, keep up by flooding the walks daily. Plants in flower, keep 
cool, and shade them, this will prolong the bloom. Potting, do when¬ 
ever it is necessary. Seeds of many stove plants may yet be sown ; 
transplant seedlings when just out of the seed-leaf. Syringe, use daily. 
Water, apply liberally, but not so as to sodden the soil. Top-dress 
the whole stock of plants during the month, it refreshes and gives them a 
neat, clean appearance ; wash the pots if mossy. Weeds, constantly 
eradicate. Worms in pots, destroy with lime water. 
T. Appleby. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Auriculas and Polyanthuses, place on ashes behind a north wall, 
in the shade ; keep clear of weeds, and constantly supplied with water. 
pot; plant out some old plants to layer and form dwarf plants. Dahlias, 
finish planting ; put stakes to early; put in cuttings of new or scarce 
kinds. Fuchsias, pot off cuttings ; train specimens, and water occa¬ 
sionally with liquid-manure. Sow seed of Hollyhock ; put stakes to; 
prick out seedlings. Hyacinths out of bloom, take up and store. 
Insects, destroy. Pansies, water freely in dry weather; putin cuttings 
of; sow seed, and transplant; layer long, straggling shoots ; shade from 
hot sun. Pinks, tie to sticks ; place Inilian-rubber rings round the buds 
when more than half-grown; transplant seedlings; put in pipings. 
Ranunculuses, keep very moist; place shades over them as the blooms 
expand. Roses, look to the buds, and destroy by crushing the worm in 
the bud. Put such as are in pots, and have done blooming, in a cold pit, 
or in the open air in a shady place. Tulits, cut off all seed-vessels, and 
take up the bulbs as soon as the leaves decay. Verbenas, in the border, 
shade from sun; peg down the long branches in pots; tie out, keep 
moist, and shade. Water, give to all in pots freely. T. Appleby. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Anemones, take up as leaves wither; dry and store. Annuals (Hardy 
and some Tender), plant out to remain, in showery weather best; sow for 
late crops; some (hardy) may be sown, b. Auriculas, continue 
shading; plant offsets; prick out seedlings. Baskets or clumps, form 
of greenhouse plants. Beds, attend diligently to recent planted; water 
and stir them in dry weather. Biennials and Perennials, sow, if 
omitted, b. Box edgings clip. Bulbous Roots (Tulips, Jonquils, 
&c.), not florists’ flowers, remove offsets from; dry and store ; may trans¬ 
plant some, or keep until autumn; autumn-flowering, as Colchicums, 
&c., take up as leaves decay, separate offsets, and replant, or not until 
end of July. Carnations in bloom, attend ; aid the bud-pod to split 
with a pair of narrow sharp-pointed scissors ; bandage buds, to prevent 
bursting, with Indian-rubber rings, or tape ; water every second day ; 
tie to supporters, &c.; prick out seedlings; make layers. Chrysan¬ 
themums, plant out to layer next month. Cyclamens, transplant. 
Dahlias, finish planting-out, b. Dress the borders assiduously; 
neatness now stamps a gardener’s character. Fibrous-rooted Peren¬ 
nials, propagate by cuttings; shade and water. Flowering Plants 
generally require training and support. Grass, mow, roll, and trim 
edges. Gravel, weed, sweep, and roll. Hedges, clip, e. Leaves 
anil stems decaying, remove as they appear. Liquid Manure, apply 
occasionally to all choice flowers. Mignonette, sow for late bloom, b. 
Mimuluses, plant out. Pieonies (Chinese), water freely with liquid 
manure, or they will not flower finely. Pink seedlings, prick out; 
make layers. Pipings (or cuttings) of Carnations and Pinks may be 
planted. Potted Flowers, dress, stir earth, and water regularly. 
Ranunculuses, take up as leaves wither, dry and store. Roses, bud, 
lay, and inarch; fumigate with tobacco to destroy the aphis or green fly ; 
Roses out-of-doors, wash with tobacco or ammonia water. Salvia 
Patens, pinch down centre stem to make it bushy. Seedlings of 
Perennials and Biennials transplant. Seeds (ripe), gatherin dry weather. 
Seed Vessels, remove, to prolong flowering. Water, give freely and 
frequently to all newly-moved plants, and to others in dry weather; early 
