September 2-3. 
THE COTTAGE GAEDENEE. 
397 
slipped the cutting from the main shoot, let the base dry 
for a day or two, damping and shading the top in the 
meantime, and then insert them firmly in rows. If you 
| can get a little road-drift to put them in all the better, 
j If you want to see them look green you may shade a 
little; but this is of no consequence, for though they 
| llag and hang their heads, there is so much juice in 
I them that they will be sure to recover. 
Florist and Fancy Pelargoniums may be treated in 
the same way until the middle of August, provided the 
stems arc well ripened, after that they would be better 
for some protection. Those who have little room, and 
mean to keep their young scarlet gereniums in large pots 
| and boxes through the winter, may put them in now 
against a south wall, if nothing better ; under a light, if 
come-at-able. These last will require little water before 
being housed. A frequent dewing of the foliage in 
bright weather is better than soaking the soil. Plants 
thus raised from cuttings as late as the end of Septem¬ 
ber, will bloom better than those struck in spring, but 
i not so well as those struck in August, and potted off; 
I and these again will be beaten by those old plants saved 
j by any of the modes detailed last season. 
The other things to be mentioned will require to be 
kept under glass, or glazed calico, so that they be close 
and moist. A light sandy soil will be necessary for 
them all, whether planted in beds, or in pots, or boxes, 
the latter being well-drained. Eoad-drift makes a capital 
chief ingredient; about a quarter of leaf-mould will im¬ 
prove it, provided it is sweet, and free from worms; and 
then, for all small tender things, a surfacing of silver- 
sand and charcoal-dust, taking care in every instance 
that the cuttings are put in firm, and not deep. In the 
Second Group.—I would place Saidas, Senecios, 
Cupheas, Pentstemons, &c. Those, with the exception of 
Senecios, will stand out, with a little protection j but 
unless they are taken up, divided, and fresh planted in 
spring, they will not bloom so well as young’plants 
raised from cuttings in August and September. The 
first to be potted off, the second to remain M the cutting 
pots or boxes in winter. Small, side, stiff shoots are 
best, from one to two inches in length. The most 
succulent, as the Senecio, should have the least water. 
All will do best in a cold frame, or pit, kept closo, and 
not too shaded. Jf put in very late this month, the 
pots might require a very little bottom-heat about the 
middle of October. Petunias require similar cool treat¬ 
ment ; side-shoots should be sought after, from one to 
two-and-a-half inches in leugtlf. I often use the points, 
but only when I cannot get side-shoots, if Heliotropes 
I are put in later than the first week in September they 
| will require a very gentle heat at the bottom. If earlier, 
like the others, a cold place, fully two feet from the 
glass, will preseve them in the healthiest condition—air 
being given, of course, as growth proceeds, and a little 
I given at all times during night. 
I Third Group.— Anagallis, Lobelias, of the small kinds. 
The base of the plants must he examined, to get short, 
i stubby pieces; and these will quickly strike in a similar 
1 place, provided for a short time, at first, a hand-light is 
placed over them under the sash. Long pieces from 
the stem of the plant will be almost sure to disappoint 
you. The time lost in picking your cuttings is, alter 
all, time and labour saved. 
Fourth Group— Calceolarias. If you want cuttings 
of the shrubby kinds early, you must sacrifice part ol the 
blooming shoots early. Jl you allow the plants to bloom 
freely, you will seldom get good cuttings until the middle 
of September. These should be stubby side-shoots, 
from one-and-a-half to three inches in length, getting 
| firm at their base. Nipping oil' a few of the lower 
j leaves; and cutting off any loose piece of bark and wood, 
i where severed from the stem, is all the making they 
i require. Here, again, the choosing of the nice stubby 
cutting is three parts of success. Planted in pots, or 
boxes, and placed in a cold pit, or merely pricked out in 
the prepared compost, under a hand-light, or sashes, on 
a north border, success will bo equally sure, if you give 
them time; but you must not grumble if cold nights 
come before they all root. Such plants will stand 
rougher treatment afterwards than those enervated by 
heat. 
Fifth.—One word more as to Verbenas. To these 
the same rules apply; only there is a little difficulty 
in the cuttings, as any part will strike freely; but here, 
too, small side-shoots make the best plants. I fre¬ 
quently prick them out in a bed under glass, to save 
the time of preparing pots; and, in such circumstances, 
have the inclination of the glass to the north, to save 
shading. Those who are scarce of glass for this 
purpose, may lay the points of shoots, at a joint, in little 
pots, filled with fresh soil, fastening them with a pebble. 
They will soon fill the pots with roots, when the plants 
may be separated, by first cutting half through, and 
then altogether, after a short interval. E. Fish. 
CONIFEEdS. 
(Continued from page 371.) 
Cepitalotaxus drupacea. — This genus has been 
formed out of Taxes, by Dr. Sieboldt, the Japan tra¬ 
veller, and Zuccarini, author of the Flora Japonica. 
The generic name is from Kephale, a head, and Taxes, 
the yew, referring to the habit of the trees. The leaves 
of all the species are remarkably large, and have a 
silvery, milky-green hue on the under side. The C. 
drupacea (berry-bearing), is a native of the Mountains 
of Japan, where it forms a low tree, some twenty feet 
high ; very similar, excepting in its leaves, to the Irish 
yew. It is a handsome species, and perfectly hardy, 
though, as yet, very scarce. 
C. Fortunii, so named by Dr. Hooker, in compliment 
to Mr. Fortune, the zealous and successful botanical 
collector, who has enriched our gardens with numerous 
interesting and beautiful Coniferce, as well as many 
other flowering shrubs from China, and other eastern 
countries. The average height of this fine tree is from 
40 feet to 00 feet. It was discovered by Mr. F. in the 
northern parts of China, and is, therefore, likely to 
prove quite hardy in this country. The leaves are dark 
green, and fully three inches long, and are arranged in 
rows on the stem. We saw several scores of this beau- 
I ti fill yew in Messrs. Stan dish & Noble's nursery, all 
looking remarkably healthy. They profess to have both 
male and female plants; and certainly there is a differ¬ 
ence in the foliage and habit of the two. One, which 
was said to be the female, was planted out in the open 
border, and had made shoots more than a foot long this 
season. From the appearance this plant made, we can 
easily believe that it must be a fine and very ornamental 
tree when fully grown. 
C. fi i.i form is (Thready). A curiously handsome 
drooping shrub, for it can scarcely be called a tree. 
The young shoots push out in a most grotesque manner 
from the main stem, some quite upright; some horizon¬ 
tal ; and others shooting straight downwards. This odd 
way of growing renders it a strikingly curious object, 
well worthy of cultivation in the pinetum. It is perfectly 
hardy. 
C. PEnoNCDLATA. Named originally Taxes Harrihg 
tonia, in honour of the late Earl Harrington, who was the 
originator and owner of the noble collection at Elvaston 
Castle, so often referred to in these pages. It is this 
plant, that formed the type of the genus, though it is a 
matter of regret that the specific name was not retained. 
It is a native of Japan, though we know but little of its 
