September 30. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
4-25 
GREENHOUSE. 
Air, admit freely during the day, but sparingly at night, unless the 
thermometer out-of-doors be about 40°. Alstriemerias, shift, or rather 
pot in rich light soil, and place where they will be secure from frost. 
They thrive beautifully when planted out in a pit or border, where they 
can be covered with glass in winter. Azaleas, remove into the house, 
especially those that bloomed early, as the least frost w ill discolour their 
leaves. Bulbs, pot for early blooming. Cinerarias, forward ones 
give manure water, and have secured under glass. Very little frost 
injures them. Camellias (See Azaleas). Calceolarias, strike 
cuttings; pot forward plants ; prick off seedlings. Chrysanthemums 
for winter blooming, provide with shelter from cold rains and early frosts, 
and water with manure-water, alternately with clean. Climbers on 
rafters now prune in, to give light to the plants beneath. Cleroden- 
drons, Gesneras, Lantanas, Achimenes, &c., keep in the warmest 
end of the house preparatory to resting them for the winter, or returning 
to the plant stove. Azaleas, Camellias, Fuchsias, &c., at the 
coolest. Cuttings of all kinds, especially late inserted ones, intended for 
out-door work next season, keep secure from dampness. Very dull cold 
weather will be their greatest enemy. Be careful how you apply any 
artificial heat—it generally does more harm than good. Cytisus and 
Genista, scourge well with soap-suds, and then with clean water, to 
remove all traces of Red-spider, and then place where they can be 
sheltered, before being housed at the end of the month. Erythrinas 
out-of-doors, when touched with frost, take up and pot, and placed under 
shelter, not cutting the stems down until moderately ripe. Geraniums, 
keep clear from fly; and slowly growing; this last condition is the best 
antidote against the former; avoid, however, letting them be cold and 
soaked too, for then you will have spot; forward ones may be repotted, 
and fresh struck ones potted off. Gladiolus, pot. Heaths and 
Epacrises, get under shelter, and give them abundance of air, when 
temperature about 40°. All hard-wooded plants will require similar 
treatment, only the hardiest may have the airiest and coolest place. 
Early Fuchsias may be put into sheds before their stems have been 
injured by frost; pot all young struck plants. Geraniums , Calceolarias , 
&c., for beds and vases, may be kept easier in boxes than in pots—say 
5 inches deep, 6 inches wide, and 2£ feet in length; give them two or 
three inches each. Salvia splendens, encourage with manure 
waterings, and syringing with soot water, to banish the Red-spider 
before housing it in the conservatory. Plants to be raised from the flower¬ 
beds should previously have their roots cut round, and then after potting 
should have a little bottom-heat, to encourage fresh roots, while the top 
temperature is kept cool. They will not require to be often watered for 
a time, but syringing the tops in sunny days will be serviceable. All 
Plants should be thoroughly cleaned, and houses and glass washed 
and put in good order. Water should also now be given with a careful 
hand, and only when necessary. A plant may not require it above once 
or twice a-week now, that would have wanted refreshing twice, in the 
dog-days, during a forenoon’s sunshine. Those swelling their flower- 
buds, will require, however, a good supply. Bear in mind that bad 
watering is the great cause why pot plants so often languish and die. 
- R. Fish. 
ORCHID HOUSE. 
Air ; in fine warm weather, a small opening to allow fresh air to enter 
the house will be useful, both for the keeping down the temperature of 
the house, and changing the air. Bletias should be put to rest by 
withholding water, and placing them in a pit or cooler house. Cycno- 
ciies, Cyrtopodiums , and Catasetums. These plants should now be 
kept dry a few days in the warm house, and when perfectly so, remove 
them into a cooler one. Fire may be applied to heat the hot-water every 
night, more or less, according to the state of the temperature out-ot- 
doors; raise the thermometer by day to 7b°, by night let it fall to 60 °. 
Insects, look diligently after; every one destroyed now will prevent a 
host from coming into life in the spring. Lycastes, and other similar 
plants, should go to rest; place them on a shelf where they may be pro¬ 
tected from ever receiving any w r ater. Plants that require to be placed 
in a place to rest may be known, first, by the full, plump, mature pseudo¬ 
bulbs, and, secondly, by the leaves turning yellow and dropping off. 
When in such a state, it is absolutely necessary to reduce the water and 
heat, to prevent them from growing again prematurely. Plants that 
are growing should have their due share of water, and be kept mode¬ 
rately warm ; some may require potting, and all will be the better for a 
top-dressing with fresh compost. Staniiopeas will now be at rest; give 
no water till the spring, This month is a suitable season for providing 
materials for growing Orchids, such as fibrous peat, turfy loam, sphag¬ 
num or bog moss, branches of trees, and broken crocks; all these, duly 
prepared, and kept dry and warm, will be ready for use whenever they are 
wanted during the wet season. T. Appleby. 
PLANT STOVE. 
JEsciiy'nantiius, reduce water to; prune in straggling branches. 
Air, give every favourable day. Achimenes, place in a cooler house, 
to cause them to give over growing and go to rest; give no water, and 
put them in a spot where no water or dry heat will reach them ; this rule 
docs not apply to A. picta, which should now' be in flower, and in its 
greatest beauty. Amaryllis aulica will now be showing flowers; 
remove it, as soon as the flower-buds are visible, from the tan-pit into the 
stove ; all other species of stove amaryllis should now be at rest. Cono- 
'Clinium ianthemum, or, as it is now called, Hebeclinium ianthemum, 
a winter-flowering, elegant stove plant, repot, and grow on to flower in 
February or March. Eranthemum pulciiellum, and E. strictum, 
treat similarly. Eranthemums, water with liquid-manure, to induce 
them to open their flow'ers freely. Gesneras should all be at rest, ex¬ 
cepting G. zebrina, which will now be one of the cbiefest ornaments of 
the stov- Justicia, several species will now be in flower ; water them 
freely, occasionally using liquid-manure, Luculia gratissima, though 
not essentially a stove plant, will flower much finer early in the season if 
brought into the stove this month. Medinillas, young plants repot; 
older plants, keep partly dry, and cool. Passion Flowers, trim in 
freely. Poinsettias, water freely, to produce fine head of bloom in 
winter. Rogiera amcena, and cordiflora, repot j place in heat, to 
bloom about Christmas; a new genus of dwarf, free, winter-flowering, 
stove shrubs. Remove stove plants kept in frames through the summer 
into the stove; water freely, to compensate for the loss of the moist 
atmosphere of the pit. Water, apply very moderately to the general 
stock. Remove all decaying leaves, and top-dress generally. 
T. Appleby. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Anemones, plant early in the month. Auriculas and Poly¬ 
anthuses, place in their winter quarters, m. ; give no more water than 
just sufficient to keep them from flagging. Calceolarias, place close 
to the glass ; prick off seedlings. Chrysanthemums, give abundance 
of water to and plenty of air ; kill insects on by frequent smoking. Car¬ 
nations and Picotees, finish potting-off into 48-pots, and place under 
shelter. Cinerarias, keep in frames well protected from frost till next 
month, excepting early flowerers, which should, as soon as bloom is 
perceived, be removed into the greenhouse; seedlings pot off. Dahlias, 
protect from frost; if already caught by it, cut down, and lift the roots, 
to prevent excessive bleeding; protect plants cut down from frost, by 
covering with a layer of coal-ashes. Fuchsias, gradually dry off, and 
place under the stages, or in sheds, where the frost will not reach them. 
Gladioli, plant b. in light rich soil. Hyacinths, choice, plant, b. in 
a deep rich sandy soil, in a sheltered nook. Common sorts plant any- I 
where in beds and borders. Pot Hyacinths in mild compost, and deep 
pots, press the soil firm to prevent the roots descending too quickly to | 
the bottom of the pots. Irises, English and Spanish, plant b. in rich I 
soil. Pansies, pot off cuttings, very choice kinds place under glass in i 
cold-frames ; plant out common kinds, b.; prick out seedlings ; old, 
straggling plants destroy, or prune in severely. Pinks, plant out finally 
where they are to bloom. Ranunculuses, examine and remove all 
decaying, or mouldy, tubers; prepare beds for; Turban varieties, plant 
b. Tulip-beds, level, and make ready to receive the bulbs early next 
month. Weeds, pluck up in every department of the florists’ garden. 
T. Appleby, 
KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
This is the season to look out for plenty of plants of all kinds that are 
likely to be required for the ensuing spring ; and if you run short of any 
particular kinds, be active in looking round among your neighbours and | 
friends to see what you can exchange with them, as one may have an j 
abundance of Lettuces, another an abundance of Cauliflowers, and so 
on. This is the way we should help one another. The next thing is to j 
arrange good and proper situations for winter protection. Frames that 
are done with from the Cucumber or Melon crops may be removed from 
the old hotbeds, and set down on the ground, level or upon sloping banks ; 
and if the frame be a deep one, the bottom may be filled with any kind [ 
of material to within nine inches of the top of the frame, then upon that j 
six inches of good earth ; this brings the crop up within two or three 
inches of the glass. The same may be done with merely four hoards nailed 
together, and so placed upon a sloping bank, filling up in the same way, 1 
so as to keep the pricked-out crops up close to the glass. These are 
contrivances for pricking-out Cauliflowers, or Lettuces, Cabbage-plants 
of any kind, and make excellent make-shift shelters. 
Angelica, keep clear of weeds. Artichokes, attend to winter 
dressing. Asparagus-beds, attend to winter dressing; seeds collect, ; 
and plant for forcing. Balm, plant. Beet, take up for storing. 
Borecoles, towards the end of the month, may be lifted into quarters 
of less value, should the ground be likely to be wanted for other purposes 
for early spring crops. Brocolis, keep clear of weeds, and attend to 
those heading in, to protect from frost, &c. Burnet, plant. Cab¬ 
bages, plant out, prick out, and earth-stir among. Cardoons, earth 
up. Carrots, take up main crops for winter store, and attend to young 
growing crops, as thinning, keeping clear of weeds and fallen leaves, &c. j 
Cauliflowers, plant out under hand-glasses about the middle of the 
month ; also in frames for winter protection. Celery, plant and earth j 
up. Chives, plant. Coleworts, plant. Cress (VVater), plant. ; 
Cucumbers, plant out; keep up heat of beds, by linings, &c.; water j 
sparingly. Dill, plant. Dung, prepare for hotbeds. Eartiiing-up i 
and earth-stirring, attend to. Endive, plant, and attend to blanching; j 
full-grown may be taken up and planted at the foot of walls, and other i 
warm corners, towards the end of the month, for winter protection, j 
Fennel, plant. Herbary, dress. Horse-radish, take up and plant, j 
Hyssop, plant. Jerusalem Artichokes, take up as wanted. Leaves i 
fallen, remove frequently. Leeks, earth -stir among. Lettuces, plant 
and prick out under walls, or in frames, &c. Melons (late), keep up : 
heat, by linings or otherwise; no water must be given. Mushroom- ; 
beds make, and attend to those in bearing, &c. Nasturtiums, gather ; 
for seed, if not done before. Onions, attend to those in store, and j 
earth-stir or thin out the autumn-sown, or plant out if required, about j 
the beginning of the month. Parsley, attend to potting, for use in ; 
winter. Parsnips, take up towards the end of the month for winter , 
storing ; leave in the ground for seed. Peas are sown by some about the 
end of the month. Pennyroyal, plant. Potatoes, attend to; look | 
over often to see that no decayed ones remain among the bulk. 
Radishes may be sown in warm border. Rhubarb, plant in pots for 
early forcing, end of the month. Salsafy, take up for winter storing. 
Savoys, plant out. Scorzonera, take up for winter storing. Seeds, 
gather of any kinds as they ripen. Small Salading sow as wanted. 
Spinach, keep clear of weeds; thin out, and attend to in dry weather. 
Tansy, Tarragon, and Thyme, plant, if required. Tomatoes, gather; 
if not quite ripe, place them in some warm, dry situation, where they will 
soon ripen off. Turnips, clear of weeds, and thin out young crops. 
Vacant Grounds rough up, or ridge, or trench. Those who prick out 
plants in frames, should be regular and mindful to take off the glass lights 
entirely in all favourable weather, and to tilt back and front in open, wet 
weather. T - Weaver. 
London: Printed by Harry Wooldridge, Winchester High-street, 
in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Orr, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish of 
Christ Church, City of London,—September 80th, 1852, 
