10 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
October 
Gardener. Now, if there was no other reason, the 
cheapness of this periodical is quite sufficient to re¬ 
commend it as a proper vehicle for this desired in¬ 
formation, for it will place it within the reach of the 
poorest-paid under-gardener. It, perhaps, may be 
said that these pages should only contain instruction 
for the cottage labourer; but we reply, and reply ad¬ 
visedly, that this periodical is intended for all who are 
fond of gardening, though more especially for ama¬ 
teurs and cottagers; and the greater part of the pages, 
therefore, are devoted to these classes of gardeners. 
And why should not they be orchid fanciers? There 
is nothing in the world to prevent them. We stated 
above that several amateurs (by which title we mean 
a man who does not employ a gardener, but works 
bis garden with his own hands) have begun to grow 
these curious and beautiful floral objects, and we 
hope to see the day, now that glass is so cheap, when 
orchids will be cultivated in a much greater number 
of gardens than they are at present. And we trust 
the pages we are about to write every week will be 
found useful, and have a tendency to increase the 
knowledge, and extend the culture, of these our most 
favourite plants. 
Our plan is, first, to describe the proper kind of 
habitation for orchidaceae; secondly, to describe the 
various methods of growing: 1, in pots; 2, in bas¬ 
kets; and, 3, on logs or blocks of wood, giving the 
proper soils for each, and the best kinds of wood for 
blocks. Thirdly, the proper degrees of heat and 
moisture, including giving air and watering the 
plants, as well as moistening the air at all times of 
the year. Fourthly, the first week in every month to 
give a calendar of operations for the month ensuing. 
Fifthly, and lastly, to give lists of the orchids more 
worthy of cultivating. 
Next week, if possible, we will give the calendar of 
operations, and then proceed with our regular essay 
week after week. We propose finishing it by the 
end of September next year, so that our readers will 
have in the third and fouth volume a fidl description 
of one year’s culture of orchidaceae. T. Appleby. 
THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
Asparagus.—A slight hotbed may at the present 
season be advantageously made for planting roots of 
this vegetable, so that a late autumn and early winter 
supply of fine shoots may be obtained. The glass 
lights should be taken off, at the commencement of 
forcing, entirely during the day in fine weather, and 
tilted when the weather is unfavourable, so as to ad- I 
mit a free circulation of air, without which the aspa- I 
ragus cannot fail to be weak and of a bad colour. : 
The bottom heat, whether produced from a tank, from ! 
dung, or from other fermenting materials, should at j 
first be moderate, and when the shoots have begun j 
to start, a little additional heat then applied will i 
assist in bringing them forward. The roots should j 
be taken up very carefully with a strong fork or two¬ 
pronged grubber, and must never be allowed to lie 
about afterwards; place them at once on the bed 
prepared for them, and let them be lightly covered 
over with good decomposed vegetable soil. Leaf- 
mould and old tan are both very good for this pur- ' 
pose; put about six inches deep under the plants, 
which should be covered with the same material 
about two inches deep at first, and some more ap¬ 
plied as a top-dressing as soon as the first buds are 
peeping through. Asparagus may also be produced 
by placing its roots in shallow tubs, boxes or pans, 
and putting these in the mushroom or hothouse. 
Asparagus-beds. —Attend to the autumnal manage¬ 
ment of these as the stalks appear turning yellow or dy¬ 
ing-off, and the berries become ripe. First, collect the 
berries for what seeds may be wanted, and put them 
away for the present, for the seeds can be washed out 
on any rainy day, dried, and put away in paper-bags 
until wanted. After the berries are thus taken cut 
down the stalks close to the ground with a sharp 
knife or reaping-hook, and clear them all away. 
Then, if any weeds exist, let them be hoed up and 
all raked off and taken away neatly ; next, with the 
digging-fork, dig up the beds carefully, without injury 
to the crowns, after which put on a thorough good 
top dressing of manure—the richer the better. Good 
half-decomposed pig-manure is excellent for the as¬ 
paragus-bed ; let it be spread regularly over the sur¬ 
face of the beds. After this (in order to secure a neat 
appearance) fork up the alleys carefully, without hurt¬ 
ing the roots, then set a line along the side of the 
beds, and make up the edges neatly with the spade or 
shovel; then just run along and chop it out, aud 
throw the crumbs over the manure : it is not neces¬ 
sary that it should all be covered. When all is com¬ 
pleted, the beds will look about three inches above the 
level of their alleys. By this mode the annually- 
made roots growing into the alleys will be left unin¬ 
jured ; and the rich soluble parts of the top dressing 
will be washed down to the roots during the winter 
months. We should always remember that the as¬ 
paragus is not like the pear, or plum, or other plants 
grown for their fruit, for these if over-luxuriant have 
to be either replanted or root-pruned. Unlike them, 
asparagus wants all the strength it can get; there¬ 
fore never hurt its roots by digging out deep alleys, 
and chopping through the best roots, to get earth to 
cover the tops of the beds with. Such treatment not 
only is not required, but is very injurious, leaving 
the chopped-through roots exposed to all weathers 
for the winter months—roots on which the next year's 
crop depends. Such treatment, however, is often 
seen in large gardens, where a better example ought 
to be exhibited. 
Routine Work. —Continue to fill up every vacant 
space of ground, by planting Cape brocoli and bore¬ 
cole, if any strong plants of these are left in the seed 
bed, as well as cabbage and coleworts. Plant out 
also into beds, banks, or borders, a good store of 
small plants to stand for planting in the early spring. 
Plant leeks, and earth up those that are advancing, 
not forgetting, at the same time, the occasional ap¬ 
plication of liquid manure. Do not neglect to pro¬ 
vide a good stock of lettuces, which should be planted 
generally in dry healthy situations, continuing to 
prick out small plants in abundance. Transplant 
parsley into warm aud sheltered situations, and put 
a few roots in the greenhouse or frame, for securing 
a good winter supply. Frame radishes and carrots 
should now be sown on slight hotbeds, and the earth 
placed close to the glass, so that the plants may have 
the full benefit of the light; and a free circulation of 
air must be kept up. Cucumbers should be sown in 
succession, and those already advancing should be 
well aired. A root or two of rhubarb may also be 
placed in heat. James Barnes & W. 
