THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
October 18. 
32 
A question may now arise, shall there be any upright 
glass at the sides or ends of the house? We say de¬ 
cidedly and advisedly—no ! So to place glass is an 
unnecessary and, therefore, an useless expense. The 
walls ought to rise high enough to allow a comfort¬ 
able walk and head room. The rafters and lights 
ought to be fixed, and to give air a few openings may 
be easily contrived in the highest part of the house, 
and a few sliding panels near the floor in the walls. 
This cold air ought to flow in over the hot pipes, and 
to become heated before it comes in contact with the 
plants. In summer, when there is no heat in the 
pipes, the external air is naturally so warm that no 
injury will accrue to the plants by admitting it into 
the house without being artificially heated. Before 
we quit our description of what we opine to be the 
best kind of house for these singular plants, we would 
direct our readers’ attention to the desirableness, nay, 
almost absolute necessity, of having more than one 
for them. However small the collection may be, 
there will be some that require more heat than the 
others. The orchids of South America, such as Mr. 
Skinner saw growing, will flourish far better in a 
house of moderate temperature than in a house 
highly heated. This house we would distinguish by 
the name of “ the Mexican house.” 
The orchids, natives of Java, Borneo, Singapore, 
the Phillipine Islands, and the hot jungles of Hin¬ 
dustan, require, on the other hand, a much higher 
temperature and close moist atmosphere. The house 
for these plants we would designate “ the East 
Indian house.” By having two houses a consider¬ 
able number of advantages will be secured, although 
it might appear, at first sight, that in these coun¬ 
tries from being always warm the vegetation must 
always be progressing; yet such, as is well known, is 
not the case. Plants in the hottest countries have a 
season of rest, and that rest is induced not by cold, 
as with us, but by drought excessive and long con¬ 
tinued. We obtain this rest to our orchids by cold 
and drought combined. The Indian tribes, as soon 
as they have made their growth for the year, where 
there are two houses, may be removed into the cooler 
or Mexican house, and that removal or change of 
temperature will harden their pseudo-bulbs," and 
concentrate the sap, causing them thereby to become 
more healthy, robust, and free to flower. Should any 
of the South American species require a little more 
heat, they could be conveniently removed into the 
Indian house to make their growth. The cooler 
house will also be useful to place any of the Indian 
species in when in flower, which change will consi¬ 
derably prolong their season of blooming. The two 
houses may join each other, divided by a partition 
either of brick or glass. We should prefer glass, as 
being neater and showing off the plants in both 
houses to greater advantage. The inside furnishing 
of the house, namely, the pipes and tanks, cistern for 
water, stages, and shelves, we must defer describing 
till next week. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
The Dahlia. —Frost has already, in some places, 
laid his blight upon this fine autumn flower, render¬ 
ing them unsightly. It is almost a thing to be re¬ 
gretted that such fine flowers in perfect beauty should 
be blasted and blackened for ever in one night, re¬ 
quiring them to be cut down and consigned to the 
* Pseudo-bulb ,—This term is used to distinguish those fleshy 
stems of orchids, which are something like bulbs, from the genuine 
bulbs, such as tulips or hyacinths for instance. 
dunghill. We might here turn moralists, but we re¬ 
member that on these themes our readers will rather 
look to the gentle, elegant pen of the authoress of 
“ My Flowers.” Our business is with the more dry 
and matter-of-fact part of practice. As soon as the 
frost has destroyed the flowers and leaves, take a 
spade and lift the roots gently up, taking care to be 
at such a distance as not to injure or cut the tubers ; 
lift them up sufficiently to break off’ the young fibres. 
The reason why this ought to be done is to prevent 
those fibres drawing up any more sap, and by that 
prevention to stop any more growth which might 
take place, if the weather should continue open and 
mild, as it sometimes does till the end of December. 
Cut away all the decidedly destroyed brandies, leav¬ 
ing the green leaves and shoots that may be unin¬ 
jured a while longer. To prevent any frost from 
reaching the tubers, our practice is to cover up, about 
a foot diameter, the roots with some dry coal-ashes. 
By using this precaution there is no danger of any 
frosts that may come for the next month or six weeks 
doing any harm. This is better than taking up the 
roots immediately after the stems are frost bitten : 
the bulbs or tubers become more firm, and will keep 
better during the winter." 
Auriculas, Polyanthuses, Carnations, and Pieo- 
tees, require plenty of air daily, and but little if 
any water. See the two preceding numbers for more 
full directions. 
Verbenas. —Cuttings in store pots must be placed 
under glass now, to shelter them from frost and wet. 
Rare varieties in beds and borders should be pruned 
in, taken up, and potted, and treated the same as 
cuttings. 
Cinerarias. —Some of the more forward may be 
removed into the greenhouse. The treatment for 
them there may be seen in the proper department of 
our pages. The rest will require strict attention to 
keep (lie frost from them, as they are very tender. 
Two degrees of frost will injure, and four degrees, or 
a temperature of 28°, will destroy the leaves entirely. 
So be particular, and keep them well covered up. 
Some might inquire, Why not place them in the 
greenhouse at once? But we would reply that a 
cineraria will thrive and keep healthy and more clear 
from insects in a pit or frame, than on the dry shelves 
or stage of a greenhouse. 
Ranunculus. —Our amateur and cottage friends 
who cultivate this charming flower must not forget to 
prepare their bed for them; for though we do not re¬ 
commend planting the best kinds till February or 
March, yet it is desirable to prepare the bed now. 
Some varieties may be planted at once, more especi¬ 
ally the Turban, scarlet, yellow, and black. We will 
enlarge a little next week on these flowers. 
T. APPLEBY. 
THE KITCIIEN-GARDEN. 
Red Beet. —This being the season for taking up 
and storing this useful vegetable, care must be taken 
that neither the tap-root nor any of the strong roots 
should be injured or broken in removing, as not only 
would the colour of the vegetable be thereby spoiled, 
but its flavour as well as the esteemed saccharine 
properties of the beet would be lost. The leaves 
should not be cut, but twisted off when drawn up by 
the hand. Store the roots in a cool shed or cellar, or 
in a heap out of doors, covered with a coat of earth, 
* The practice of Mr. Beaton and Mr. Appleby differ in the means 
employed, hut in their object they perfectly coincide—ripening the 
tubers before storing.— Ed. C. G. 
