50 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
October 25. 
the state of the drainage, for the evil of which you complain. If so, 
transfer the plants, even now, to fresh pots well drained, and without 
injuring a fibre, remove the sour clogged soil, and replace with sandy 
loam and peat. 
Chrysanthemum Cuttings (W. H. C.). —Making cuttings, three 
weeks before the 9th of October, is too late for obtaining good 
blooming plants of chrysanthemums. The check given is apt to ren¬ 
der the flower buds abortive. Had you succeeded by great care in 
preventing evaporation, you would have had after all only Lilliputians 
for your labour—though some people like them all the better on that 
account. The cuttings you made on the 6th inst., will be apt to fail 
from the same cause. In both cases you would have succeeded better 
by layering the points of the shoots in small pots, and severing from 
the parent plant when well-rooted. We are afraid we cannot get you 
out of your “_/?,r,”as the plants first struck, and showing no signs of 
bloom, will not be of any service to you this season ; but as you seem 
to have plenty of plants growing out of doom, and to wish to have 
the flowers late and fine, we would recommend you to take up some 
of the plants carefully, saving all the fibres, and getting a good ball, 
and then plant them in light soil under glass, in a pit, fee., water 
them well, shade and syringe the leaves frequently, and they will not 
greatly feel the removal. Some of the best might be potted, and 
treated in the same manner; and though the the lower leaves would 
drop, the plants might yet do for standing by-and-hy at the back of 
a greenhouse, where only the heads of bloom would be seen. Next 
year take off some cuttings in May, or make layers in August. 
Many Questions (A Lady Subscriber from the beginning ).— 1 . We 
would not advise you to sow your West India seeds until February or 
March, and then take the aid of a hotbed, but do not be sanguine as 
to the quality of the plants you may obtain, nor yet of your ability to 
preserve them in your greenhouse the following winter. 2. Your 
war-plant, we presume to be the Hoy a carnosa, a beautiful thing, a 
native of Asia, named in honour of Thomas Iloy, who was gardener 
to the duke of Northumberland. It requires a warm greenhouse to 
keep it in good health. 3. Get a stove, by all means, for your damp 
greenhouse, if you have no means of heating it already, or which 
cannot be made effectual. Your grapes should have been ripe by 
this time. Their falling in such large pieces may be more owing to 
damp rotting the footstalks, than to any thing of the mildew disease. 
Do not shut your doors and windows, as you have been advised, but 
open them and get on a brisk fire, and that will dry the house, and 
promote the circulation of air. Sec what has been said by Mr. Fisher 
and others lately, on vines. 4. It is not uncommon for the Pyrus 
Japomea to flower in the autumn. 5. Violets flowering now will 
bloom on in the spring, but., perhaps, not quite so abundantly. 6. The 
mildness of the climate in Cornwall, causes flowers to bloom earlier, 
than in the northern and inland counties. 7. When balsams are 
wanted early, it is usual to sow them in a hotbed. When that is 
not the object, they will come very well if soivn in a greenhouse or 
even outside a window-sill. 'They may be sown out of doors in May 
or June. Either your seed or your sowing must have been at fault. 
Wintering Lantana crocea (Subscriber). —This requires the 
warmest end of a greenhouse to winter in, and to be kept almost dry 
from November to March ; this will cause it to cast its leaves. As 
soon in the spring as its buds appear to swell prune it down close 
like a pelargonium. 
Oleander and Plumbago Larpentje (Ibid). —These must not 
be kept quite dry but nearly so all the winter. 
Martynia fragrans (Ibid). — This is a weedy looking plant with 
very handsome large purplish flowers, well worth growing in a warm 
border. The seeds should be sown in February, in strong bottom 
heat, in a cucumber bed. They are often very difficult to force into 
vegetation. 
Pumpkin Seed (J. M. Lee).— Wc have not any at present. Your 
other questions wc will answer next week. 
Storing Apples (X. X.). —Dried moss is better than either hay or 
sand for putting between layers of apples; hay gives them an un¬ 
pleasant taste, and sand so excludes the air that it prevents that 
proper fermentation going on upon which their good flavour depends. 
Heracleum giganteum (An Artist). —The nurserymen adver¬ 
tising it are respectable men, and the plant is very large ; others may 
think it handsomer than we do. 
Flower Pots (Dianthus). — We will see what we can do upon this 
subject. You are quite right in condemning the uncertain size 
meant by different writers when they mention 48s, ike. 
Enormous Cabbage (G. Taft). —You say you have “this year 
grown an Early York Cabbage that weighed 25lbs.” We do not 
doubt this weight, but we do not think it was the variety you name ; 
of the Drum-head variety they have been grown mueh’largcr. Mr. 
Thoms, of the New Inn, Saltasli, cut six, which weighed together 
3371bs. The heaviest was 6llbs. 
CALENDAR FOR NOVEMBER. 
GREENHOUSE. 
Air, admit rather freely in mild weather. Bulbs, such as hyacinths, 
tulips, narcissus, ike., pot for spring flowering. Calceolarias' 
keep growing slowly, in an airy moist atmosphere; seedlings, pot off’’ 
and prick into pans. Camellias, finish setting in, and the late 
ones may have their buds thinned if necessary. Cinerarias, en¬ 
courage the forwardest to grow in a moist, gentle heat; keep these 
for spring and summer, just moving. Climbers, however beautiful, 
cut back to give light to the other plants. Chrysanthemums, 
remove incipient shoots from the axils of the leaves, on the main 
shoots ; thin the buds where too thick ; encourage with manure water • 
and if not all in doors, have protection ready. Damp Stagnant Air 
avoid. Fires, light in frosty and foggy weather. Furnaces and 
Flues clean out previously. Heaths aud Epacrises, keep in the 
airiest part. Geraniums or Pelargoniums, encourage the old 
plants with a good position. Nip any luxuriant shoot, no as to 
equalize the strength; keep fresh potted ones just moving. Plants 
keep clear from dirt and insects, by washing and fumigation. Tem¬ 
perature, keep from 40° to 4, r >° at night. Water every thing very 
moderately, unless plants swelling their flower buds: for these use 
water warmer than the air of the house. Clean pots, paths, stages • 
tie, train, and fresh label in bad weather. It. Fisn. ' 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Anemones, plant for earliest bloom. Auriculas and Polyan¬ 
thuses, put under shelter (see October). Bulbous Roots, finish 
planting in dry weather ; pot for latest forcing, and for plunging in 
flower beds. &c. Carnation layers, finish planting and potting ; 
secure the pot one’s from rains. Climbers of all sorts, plant, prune, 
and train. Compost, prepare and turn in dry weather. Dahlias’ 
cut down after frost, and let the roots remain as long as it is safe • 
wffien taken up dry them in open sheds, &c., before storing, where 
frost and damp cannot reach them. Dress the beds and borders, 
and put mark sticks to bulbs and other roots, to guide you when dig¬ 
ging. Edgings, plant. Evergreens, finish planting, b. Fibrous- 
rooted Plants, finish dividing and planting, h. Fork over bor¬ 
ders, ike. Grass, cut very close the last time ; keep clear of leaves ; 
and roll. Gravel, weed and roll, Hedges, plant, clip, and clear 
at bottom. Hoe and rake shrubberies, and bury the leaves, &c., be¬ 
tween the plants. Layering, perform generaljy. Leaves, ga’ther 
for compost, flic. Marvel of Peru, take up and store like dahlias. 
Mulch round trees and shrubs lately planted. Plant perennials 
and biennials (see October). Planting, perform generally. Pot¬ 
ted Plants, for forcing, plunge in the earth of a well-sheltered 
border facing the sun. Prune shrubs and trees generally. Ra¬ 
nunculuses, plant for earliest bloom. Seedlings of them, in boxes, 
&c., remove to a warm situation. Shrubs of all kinds plant, 
stake, and mulch. Suckers, from roses and other shrubs, sepa¬ 
rate and plant. Tigridias, save from frost as long as possible; 
should not be dried till January or February. Tulips, finish plunt- 
in S> b - 1 ). Beaton. 
PLANT STOVE AND FORCING DEPARTMENT. 
X11IL, HU lint 
, 7 . •> ; renew or 
turn over, to keep up the required bottom heat. Dress the borders 
by forking and raking, to keep a dry porous surface. Fire Heat 
by whatever means it may be distributed, must now be daily employed’ 
to keep the temperature from 55° to 60 °. Leaves, keep clean with 
sponge, Ike., and remove decayed ones. Pines require a dry tem¬ 
perature of 60 ° to 65°. Protect outside borders, in which forcing 
trees are planted, from rains and frost. Peach, prune ; wash with 
diluted ammonia-water from the gas-works before training. Potted 
flowering bulbs and other plants introduce. Tobacco fumigation 
employ, if insects appear. Vines, strip the old bark off, and clean’ 
as the peach, before commencing to force ; begin with a day tempera¬ 
ture of 50°. Water (tepid), apply, with the syringe on clear days. 
_ D. Beaton. 
ORCHARD. 
- "V 01 newiy planted trees lor 
lear ot wind. M ulch newly planted trees as soon as planted. Pru n- 
ing, commence. Currants and Gooseberries, prune, b. Apples 
prune, m. Plums and Cherries, prune, e. Pears, prune, c’. 
Large orchard trees, prune, e. Raspberries, prune and dress 
e. Figs, pull off all young fruit large as a horse-bean, b. ; protect 
from frost, m. Nectarines and Apricots, clear away the remain¬ 
ing leaves from, m. Nails and screws, draw out superfluous o- 
rotten ones from all wall trees, m. Pick and prepare ditto for renail- 
mg. Suckers, clear away, m. Vines, prune, in. Espaliers 
prune, m. Mulberries, plant, b. Medlars, plant, b. Rasp¬ 
berries, plant, m. Strawberries, plant, b. Stones of fruits 
sow', b. Trench or otherwise prepare ground for planting, b! 
Walnuts, plant, b. Fork out ground about fruit-trees, slightly b. 
R. Krrington. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Artichokes, winter, dress. Asparagus-beds, dress • attend to 
that in forcing. Beans, plant, e. Beet (Red), dig up for storing • 
leave, or plant out for seed. Cabbages, plant; plant out for seed 
Cardoons, earth up, b. Carrots, dig up and store, b.; leave or 
plant out for seed. Cauliflowers, prick out, b.; attend to under 
glasses, ike. Celery, earth up. Coleworts, plant. Composts 
prepare. Cucumbers, attend to in forcing. Drain vacant ground! 
Dung, prepare for hotbeds. Eartiiing-up, attend to. Endive 
blanch, &c. Garlic, plant, b. Herbary, clean, ike. Horse! 
radish, dig up and store. Hotbeds, make for salading &c 
Jerusalem Artichokes, dig up and store. Leaves &c ’ con¬ 
tinually clear away. Lettuces, plant in frames; attend to those 
advancing. Mint, plant; force in hotbed. Mushroom-beds 
make; attend to those in production. Onions, in store look over • 
(winter standing), thin ; plant for seed, b. ; (Potato), plant. Pars! 
ley, cut down, b. ; plant some in a frame for use in snowy weather 
Parsnips, dig up and store, b.; leave or plant out for seed. Peas 
sow, b. Potatoes, dig up, b. Radishes, sow, in hotbed’ 
Salsafy, dig up and store. Savoys, plant for seed, b. Scorzo- 
nera, dig up and store. Seeds, dress and store. Shallots, plant 
b. Small Salading, sow; sow in hotbed. Spinach thin &c’ 
Thinning, attend to. Trench, ridge, &c., vacant ground. Weeds 
destroy continually. 
ijoin dun : 
T j . , ^ nAKKY WOOLDRIDGE, 147, Strand, in the 
Parish of Saint Mary-le-Strand; and Winchester High-street, in 
the Parish of St. Mary Kalemlar; and Published by William 
Somfrvllk Orr, at the Office, 147, Strand, in tire Parish of 
Saint Mary-le-Strand, London.—October 25th, 1849 . 
